Prepare for Disasters

Your life can change in the blink of an eye.

Why do they matter?

Your home is vulnerable to damage during hurricanes, severe thunderstorms, or tornadoes when roof ridge vents, soffits, valleys, and other roof accessories fail. Securing the components of your roof during a storm can prevent water intrusion, the creation of windborne debris, and subsequent damage to your home’s roof and interior. Strengthen these parts of your roof today, so you are ready when high winds arrive.

What do I need to know?

Roof accessories refer to various products and materials used in conjunction with a roof system to enhance its functionality, appearance, or both. Some standard roof accessories include:

  1. A soffit is a horizontal surface outside on the underside of the eaves. The eave is the area of the roof that overhangs the exterior walls. Properly installed and braced soffits resist wind forces and keep water out when the wind drives rain against the outside walls pushing through soffits and into the home’s attic. Soffit failure during recent hurricanes continues to present a challenge. It has caused widespread and costly ceiling and interior damage. The good news is that soffit bracing is a high-impact yet low-cost DIY home improvement project.
  2. Attic ventilation openings include soffit vents, ridge vents, off-ridge vents, gable rake vents, and turbines. Post-storm damage investigations often find attic ventilation openings that failed to resist high-wind pressure or keep wind-driven rain from entering the home.
  3. Ridge vents are installed at the roof’s peak to allow hot air to escape from the attic, improving ventilation. Shingles on roof ridges often blow off in hurricanes or severe windstorms. Vented ridge caps should be fastened adequately to ensure wind resistance. Low-profile ridge vents are a good choice as they are less vulnerable to high wind.
  4. Roof valleys are problematic in severe weather because they experience significant water flow. They can create ponding if they collect leaves and debris, leading to water seepage into the attic.
  5. Rooftop exterior equipment includes exhaust fans, fan cowlings, and vent hoods. This type of equipment can blow off during high-wind events due to insufficient anchorage, inadequate equipment strength, or rusting fasteners and straps.
  6. Flashings are metal pieces installed around chimneys, vents, and other roof openings to prevent water from seeping into the roof.
  7. Gutters and downspouts are installed at the roof’s edge to collect rainwater and direct it away from the building’s foundation.
  8. Skylights are installed on the roof to allow natural light into the building.
  9. Snow guards are installed on the roof to prevent snow from sliding off and potentially causing damage to property or people below.
  10. Solar panels are installed on the roof to generate electricity from sunlight.
  11. Chimney caps are installed on chimneys at the top to prevent debris and animals from entering.

Where do I start?

Have a licensed general or roofing contractor inspect your roof accessories to ensure they are anchored and secure.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High-Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition

HurricaneStrong.org Soffit Checklist

Buyers Guide to Resilient Homes – Hurricane and Tornado Checklists

FEMA 499, Home Builder’s Guide to Coastal Construction Technical Fact Sheet Series

Technical Fact Sheet No. 7.5, Minimizing Water Intrusion through Roof Vents in High-Wind Regions

FEMA P-55, Coastal Construction Manual: Principles and Practices of Planning, Siting, Designing, Constructing, and Maintaining Residential Buildings in Coastal Areas

Protecting your home’s eaves, gutters, soffits, and vents from wildfire is crucial to prevent wildfires. Evaluate and modify these building components to keep wildfire embers from entering and igniting your home.

What do I need to know?

Eaves, Overhangs, and Soffits
Eaves, overhangs, and soffits are not typically fabricated with fire-resistant materials. That is why they pose a potential hazard in wildfire-prone areas. These critical home components, including those made with thin metal, untreated wood panels, and vinyl material, are highly vulnerable to wildfire because they melt or ignite, allowing the fire to spread onto the roof, into the attic, or onto and through the exterior wall.
Overhangs and the top part of exterior walls can trap windborne embers, convective heat, and radiant heat, so it is critical to construct overhangs and walls using noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.

Vents
There are various types of vents in a home, including vents for attics; ventilated cathedral ceilings; crawlspaces; and heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems. During a wildfire, embers and hot gasses can enter vent openings and attic spaces, crawlspaces, and ductwork, spreading fire to the interior of your home. Dust, lint, and other debris collected at vent openings can also catch fire.

Gutters and Downspouts
Gutters and downspouts fabricated with plastic can melt during a wildfire.
Branches, leaves, pine needles, and other debris and vegetation trapped in gutters can catch ignite, create a fuel path, and spread wildfire to the roof.

Where do I start?

  1. Remove debris from your gutters, soffits, and vents, such as leaves, twigs, and branches.
  2. Install fine mesh screens over your vents, gutters, soffits, fireplace chimneys, and the underside of above-ground decks to keep embers out. Use non-combustible mesh no larger than 1/8 inch in size.
  3. Enclose eaves, fascia, and soffits with noncombustible materials to reduce the size of the vents or openings to prevent firebrands from entering the structure.
  4. Do not use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or vinyl siding; they can melt in a wildfire and allow embers to enter the attic space.
  5. Consider a home design without or with minimal overhangs to avoid the potential fire risks with soffits and the potential for trapping embers and hot gases. If you have a roof overhang or large overhang, take the following steps:
    • Use soffits rated for minimum one-hour fire resistance. This will help stop embers and hot gases from making contact with the joists, rafters, trusses, or the underside of the roof decking.
    • Use flat, horizontal soffits instead of attaching the soffits to the sloped joists.
    • Use noncombustible or fire-resistant fascia materials.
  6. Seal any gaps or cracks around your eaves, soffits, and vents with a fire-resistant sealant. This will prevent embers from entering your home through these openings.
  7. Use fire-resistant materials for eaves, soffits, and vents. Metal, cement, or stucco can be good choices.
  8. Use noncombustible materials for gutters and downspouts, as those fabricated from galvanized steel, copper, and aluminum will not ignite.
  9. Install non-combustible leaf guards over gutters, including metal-mesh screens and hood types. As debris can still accumulate on top of the leaf guards, clean them regularly and remove all debris.
  10. Never plant trees under your roof overhangs. Trim back any existing trees and branches that drape over your roof and eaves.
  11. Keep a defensible space around your home by clearing any ignitable materials, such as dry leaves or branches, within 30 feet of your home.
    Take all these steps to protect your eaves, gutters, soffits, and vents, and you will reduce the risk of your home igniting during a wildfire.

Resources and References

FEMA P-737 Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones
FEMA Rebuilding After a Wildfire
California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection: Wildfire Home Retrofit Guide
California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection: Readyforwildfire.org

Why do they matter?

Many homes have accessory structures such as sheds, gazebos, pavilions, pergolas, and attached structures, including open carports. An unsecured accessory structure can be loosened, lifted, and moved by high winds during hurricanes, severe storms, or tornadoes, causing damage and creating dangerous conditions.
Engineering analysis after high-wind events often finds that damage begins when an attached or accessory structure fails, leading to even more significant damage to the home. For example, carports with poor connections to the house can be lifted by high winds and compromise the home’s roof. Insufficiently anchored structures such as sheds can break apart and become windborne debris that cracks windows and allows wind inside the house. Making sure these structures stay in place is critical to keep you safe and help prevent damage to the structure and your home.

What do I need to know?

Securing gazebos, pergolas, sheds, or other accessory structures against high wind requires several steps:

  1. Proper foundation: The structure should have a sound foundation, such as concrete footings, to ensure it is firmly anchored to the ground. If the structure rests on columns, they should be securely connected to the foundation to resist wind uplift and damage.
  2. Strong anchoring: The structure should be anchored to the foundation using strong bolts or anchors designed to withstand high winds. This can include anchor straps, earth anchors, or auger anchors.
    a. Carports and other attached structures, such as swimming pool screen enclosures, must be securely anchored to a foundation and attached to the main structure.
    b. All accessory items require some form of anchorage, regardless of size. Even a small playhouse can detach and become windborne debris in extreme wind events.
    c. Generally, if an object cannot be moved indoors, you should anchor it to the ground.
  3. Reinforced construction: The accessory structure should be strengthened to withstand high winds. This could involve using thicker or stronger materials, adding cross-bracing or additional framing, or using hurricane straps or truss screws to secure the roof to the walls.
  4. Regular maintenance: Regular maintenance is essential to ensure that the structure remains in good condition, so be sure to repair any damage or wear and tear promptly. This can include replacing damaged or missing components, tightening bolts or anchors, and trimming trees or other vegetation that could fall on the structure during a storm.
  5. Remove loose objects: Any loose objects, such as furniture, planters, or decorations, should be removed from the structure and stored inside during high winds.
  6. Stay up-to-date: Stay up-to-date with weather forecasts and warnings in your area. If a severe storm is expected, taking additional precautions, such as removing the roof or dismantling the structure until the storm passes, may be necessary.

Where do I start?

• Consult a licensed contractor or engineer in your area to have them determine if the anchorage and connections on your accessory or attached structures are sufficient to resist high-wind events.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition
FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why does it matter?

Flooding is the most common natural disaster in the United States. It causes the most property damage of all types of natural disasters, comprising 90% of disaster-related damage in the U.S. annually. All 50 states have experienced flooding during the past five years.

Hurricanes and storms typically cause floods in the Eastern United States and the Gulf Coast. In the Western U.S., snowmelt and rainstorms are responsible for most flooding.

What do I need to know?

According to FEMA, one inch of floodwater can cause more than $25,000 in damage. Five inches can cause more than $45,000, and one foot can cost nearly $75,000.

How do I get started?

Take the following steps to mitigate and prevent devastating damage caused by flooding and rising water.

Take the following steps to mitigate and prevent devastating damage caused by flooding and rising water.

  1. Elevate your home if you live in a high-risk flood zone to reduce the risk of damage. While costly, this retrofit could save your home from complete destruction in extreme flooding.
  2. Inside your home: Elevate and protect these appliances to prevent costly damage.
    • Washers & dryers
    • Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) indoor equipment
    • Water heaters
    • Electrical panels and electrical service components, such as switches and receptacles
    • Telephone, computer, and communications equipment
    • Electronics such as televisions, cable boxes, etc.
  3. Outside your home: Elevate and protect these appliances, systems, and equipment to avoid costly damage.
    • Place air conditioning compressors, heat pumps, or package units (single units including a furnace and air conditioner) on a masonry, concrete, or pressure-treated lumber base.
    • Anchor mount elevated exterior appliances such as fuel tanks.
  4. Install flood barriers: You can also install flood barriers around your home to prevent water from entering. This could include sandbags or permanent barriers such as floodgates or walls.
  5. Waterproof your basement by following these steps:
    • Seal any cracks and gaps in the basement walls or floor to prevent water from entering. Use hydraulic cement, epoxy, or other waterproofing products.
    • Install a drainage system: A drainage system can help to redirect water away from your home’s foundation. Consider installing a French drain, a sump pump, or other drainage systems.
    • Apply waterproof coatings: Waterproof coatings can be applied to the walls and floor of your basement to create a barrier against moisture. There are various types of coatings available, including cementitious coatings, acrylic coatings, and epoxy coatings.
    • Improve ventilation: Good ventilation prevents moisture buildup in your basement. Installing vents or fans can improve airflow and reduce humidity.
  6. Install backflow valves: Backflow valves can prevent sewage from backing up into your home during heavy rainfall or flooding.
  7. Maintain your gutters and downspouts: Make sure your gutters and downspouts are clean and free of debris to prevent water from backing up and causing damage to your home.
  8. Do not overlook your landscape. Observe how water flows around your home. Use culverts and landscaping to ensure it flows away and does not pond or pool around the foundation. This may involve re-grading the soil or installing drainage swales or ditches.
  9. Purchase flood insurance: flood insurance will cover costs to clean and repair your home in the event of a flood. In contrast, standard homeowners insurance policies typically do not cover flood damage.

More Resources

Buyers Guide to Resilient Homes
HurricaneStrong.org

Why does it matter?

Covering your home’s windows during extreme heat can help keep you and your house cooler and more comfortable when it matters most.

What do I need to know?

Covered windows:

  • Reduce solar heat gain – Windows are one of the primary sources of solar heat gain in a home. When sunlight enters through the window, it can heat the interior and make your air conditioning work harder to keep your home cool. By covering your windows with blinds, shades, or curtains, you can reduce the amount of sunlight that enters your home, which can help keep the temperature down.
  • Block UV rays – Ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun can damage furniture, flooring, and other materials in your home. Covering your windows with UV-blocking shades or curtains can help protect your belongings from fading and other damage.
  • Increase energy efficiency – When your air conditioning has to work harder to cool your home, it uses more energy and can increase your electricity bill. Covering your windows and reducing solar heat gain can improve your home’s energy efficiency and lower your energy costs.

Overall, covering your windows during an extreme heat situation can help keep your home more comfortable and reduce your energy costs. It’s important to choose window coverings designed for energy efficiency and UV protection and to keep them closed during the hottest parts of the day.

Where do I start?

There are several cost-effective ways to cover your windows during extreme heat to keep your home cool. Here are some of the best and least expensive options:

  • Curtains: Curtains are another inexpensive option for covering your windows during extreme heat. They come in various materials and thicknesses, and when closed, they can block sunlight and reduce heat gain. It’s best to choose curtains with light-colored, reflective fabrics to maximize their cooling effect.
  • Reflective Blinds: Reflective blinds, such as aluminum or Mylar, are designed to reflect the sun’s rays away from your home. They are an inexpensive option that can be easily installed and adjusted to control the amount of light and heat entering your home.
  • Window Film: Window film is a thin, transparent sheet that can be applied to your windows to block heat and UV rays. It’s an affordable option that can be easily installed, and it comes in various tints and designs to suit your needs.
  • Window Shades: Window shades are available in different materials, such as bamboo, fabric, or vinyl. They can be mounted inside or outside the window frame and effectively block the sun’s heat and glare. They also come in various designs and colors to match your decor.

Choose the window covering option that best suits your needs and budget while considering energy-saving benefits.

Why does it matter?

Deadly and destructive fires frequently follow earthquakes. In 1906, the infamous 7.8 magnitude San Francisco earthquake and ensuing fire killed 3,000 and razed large city sections, making it the most deadly in U.S. history. In modern times, severed gas lines are often the source of ignition, so it is essential to plan for and mitigate against the threat of fire.

One of the most effective ways to reduce fire risk after an earthquake is to locate your gas supply and understand how to interrupt the flow.

What do I need to know?

  • Install an automatic gas shutoff valve that activates when sensors register ground shaking or an increased gas flow. 
  • If you do not have an automatic system, purchase a wrench and locate the valve to ensure you can manually turn off the gas supply to prevent a fire or explosion after an earthquake.
  • Store the wrench near your gas supply valve, and ensure you and your family know how to use it. 

Where do I start?

  • Contact your gas utility provider for more information about how to have a shutoff valve installed.
  • Learn how to turn off the gas supply after an earthquake, as well as how to have your gas turned back on once the danger has passed. 

Getting Gutters Hurricane Ready

A working gutter system with properly placed downspouts and drains will direct rainfall away from your home’s foundation to prevent flooding, erosion, and water buildup. However, your gutters will only perform if they are well-maintained and free of leaves and debris. An annual gutter inspection to look for holes, rust spots, or broken supports along with routine cleaning will ensure that your gutters are ready when heavy rains come.

Assemble Your Tools and Hardware

What you will need for this project:

  • Eye protection
  • Waterproof Gloves
  • Garden hose
  • Specialty hose nozzle
  • Rags or paper towels
  • Gutter scoop
  • Bucket with metal hook
  • Ladder

Keep These Important Considerations in Mind

  • Safety is the #1 concern when working on your gutters. Do not attempt to clean or repair your gutters from on top of your roof. Only try this DIY project if you live in a one-story house. Do not attempt it at all if you have a two-story home.
  • Clean your gutters while standing firmly on a sturdy stepladder. Always use a tall enough ladder that gets you high enough to reach your gutters without having to stand on the top two steps. Work with a partner to hold your ladder.
  • Inspect your gutters as you clean. Look for corrosion, holes, leaking joints, or loose, missing, or bent hangers. Mark problem areas with masking tape so you can find those spots quickly.
  • Dry, loose leaves and small twigs can be removed with a handheld blower. Some blowers have attachments, especially for that purpose, but removing them manually works too.
  • Inspect and clean your gutters twice a year in the spring and fall. If you can only do it annually, plan for after leaves finish dropping in the fall.

Instructions for Cleaning and Repairing Your Gutters

  1. Wear eye protection and sturdy, waterproof gloves to protect yourself from debris and scratches. Place a gutter scoop, garden trowel, small hand broom, and rags in a bucket with a metal hook that can attach to your ladder with a wire hook.
  2. Start cleaning a stretch of gutter at the downspout area. This is where debris usually collects, blocking the water’s path to the downspout. Work your way along the length of the gutter, putting the collected debris into a bucket.
  3. After you are done cleaning, flush your gutters with a garden hose. The water flow will tell you how well the gutters are draining and reveal any areas that are holding water. Standing water in gutters, downspouts, or near drains keep them from draining, so consider placing sand, pebbles, or rocks in compact soil areas that won’t drain. Call a professional for an estimate if you cannot fix the problem.
  4. Consider installing protective gutter guards or screens to decrease the amount of debris that collects in your gutters, downspouts, and drains.

Why does it matter?

Those decks and plants that brought so much joy this summer need to be protected during the winter months so they are ready to go once the temperatures begin to rise. Also, winter brings a number of guests to your door, including snow and ice. Keep walkways and driveways clear and safe as guests arrive.

Where do I start?

  • If possible, move outdoor furniture, grills, toys, and other items to a covered and protected space. This will help protect these objects and make it much easier to clear snow and ice from a deck after a storm. Once the deck is clear, seal it to protect against snow, ice, rain, and other elements.
  • If you have plants outside that cannot take cold weather, consider moving them indoors, bringing a little life and décor to the inside of your home. If this isn’t possible, cover plants and shrubs when temperatures are forecasted to drop below tolerable levels.
  • Once all the leaves have fallen, clean your gutters of any debris, and install gutter downspout extensions a minimum of four feet from the house. This will allow melting snow and rain to flow away from your house, preventing floods.
  • Turn off and drain all of your outdoor plumbing, including hose connections, pool connections, sprinkler systems, etc. After you’ve turned off the water, leave faucets in the “on” position, and remove any plastic components.
  • Drain the gas from your lawnmower, and service your snowblower with a tune-up.
  • Trim back tree branches near the home that might snap under accumulating snow and ice.
  • Before a winter storm approaches, lay down a layer of deicing sand/salt to minimize ice buildup.
  • After a winter storm, lay down layers of deicing sand/salt to melt the snow and ice. Once it begins to melt, you can chip away at the layers with a snow shovel to remove it from steps and walkways.
  • Once you have finished clearing your walkways, consider helping others in your community who may need a little help.

Why does it matter?

Your home is at heightened risk for wildfires if your landscape includes combustible vegetation and building materials. Grasses, yard debris, trees, shrubs, vegetation that burn easily, or features like wooden decks create a path for fire to reach your property and ignite your home. However, creating a defensible space through landscaping design can slow down or stop a wildfire by distancing your home from active wildfires’ embers, flames, and radiant heat.

What do I need to know?

The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) Firewise program defines a Home Ignition Zone as an area extending up to 200 feet from a home. The goal for this area is to limit the amount of flammable vegetation and materials surrounding the house and to increase the moisture content of the remaining vegetation.

Where do I start?

Start planning your wildfire-resistant landscape by understanding your Home Ignition Zone and creating a defensible space with up to four subzones. Zone One is closest to your home; Zones Two to Four move further away.

Identify fire-resistant vegetation options with high water content. Some less flammable plants species include dogwood, viburnum, redbud, sycamore, magnolia, beautyberry, oak, red maple, wild azalea, sweetgum, coontie, winged elm, black cherry, persimmon, wild plum, sugarberry, Florida soapberry, fringe tree, ferns, wild olive, blue beech, hophornbeam, and sparkleberry. Consult your local extension service to identify the best wildfire-resistant tree and plan choices for your area.

Zone One – Your Home and the First Five Feet Around It

The latest Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety research suggests you designate Zone One to include your house and the first five feet around it. Follow these steps outlined by the NFPA.

  • Clean roofs and gutters of dead leaves, debris, and pine needles that could catch embers.
  • Replace or repair any loose or missing shingles or roof tiles to prevent ember penetration.
  • Reduce embers that could pass through vents in the eaves by installing 1/8 inch metal mesh screening.
  • Clean debris from exterior attic vents and install 1/8 inch metal mesh screening to reduce embers.
  • Repair or replace damaged or loose window screens and any broken windows Screen or box-in areas below patios and decks with wire mesh to prevent debris and combustible materials from accumulating.
  • Move any flammable material away from wall exteriors – mulch, flammable plants, leaves and needles, firewood piles – anything that can burn. Remove anything stored underneath decks or porches.

Zone Two – Five to 30′ Away from Your Home

Follow these NFPA recommendations to create firebreaks and help interrupt fire movement toward your home.

  • Clear vegetation from under large stationary propane tanks.
  • Create fuel breaks with driveways, walkways/paths, patios, and decks.
  • Keep lawns and native grasses mowed to a height of four inches.
  • Remove ladder fuels (vegetation under trees) so a surface fire cannot reach the crowns. Prune trees up to six to ten feet from the ground; for shorter trees, do not exceed 1/3 of the overall tree height.
  • Space trees to have a minimum of eighteen feet between crowns, with the distance increasing with the slope percentage.
  • Place trees to ensure the mature canopy is no closer than ten feet to the edge of the structure.
  • Limit trees and shrubs in this zone to small clusters of a few each to break up the continuity of the vegetation across the landscape.

Zone Three – Thirty to 100 Feet from Your Home, Up to 200 Feet

The following NFPA steps are not intended to eliminate fire but to interrupt the fire path, keep flames smaller, and prevent flames from leaving the ground and climbing so-called ladder fuels to ignite tree crowns.

  • Dispose of heavy accumulations of ground litter/debris.
  • Remove dead plant and tree material. Contact a professional or your local government extension office to evaluate or remove diseased trees, trees with mushrooms growing from the trunks, or trees with cracked trunks.
  • Remove small conifers growing between mature trees.
  • Remove vegetation adjacent to storage sheds or other outbuildings within this area.
  • Ensure trees 30 to 60 feet from your home have at least 12 feet between canopy tops.
  • Ensure trees 60 to 100 feet from your home have at least 6 feet between the canopy tops.

Note that the crown spacing needed to reduce or prevent crown fire potential may be significantly greater due to slope, tree species, or other location-specific conditions. Check with your local forestry professional to determine the right choices for your property.

Landscaping and Maintenance Reminders

  • Maintain your irrigation system.
  • Move your lawn regularly, and promptly dispose of cuttings and debris per local regulations.
  • Keep any firewood at least 50 feet away from your house. 
  • Properly store and use flammable liquids away from the house.
  • Refuel garden equipment carefully, and maintain equipment regularly.
  • Discard smoking materials with care.
  • Ensure all water sources (See Water Supply article), such as fire hydrants, ponds, swimming pools, and wells, are accessible to emergency personnel.
  • Maintain a garden hose long enough to reach all areas of your house. Leave it connected for firefighters if you have to evacuate.

More Resources

Why does it matter?

Your home is more likely to experience damage during a high-wind event if the area immediately around your home has objects that can be moved by the wind. If you have time, safely secure outdoor items or bring them inside (ex: furniture and other outdoor equipment on your patio or deck). Don’t forget trash cans, grills, toys, and potted plants. Keep them from becoming flying objects. Also remove any debris like fallen tree branches.

What do I need to know?

  • Secure outdoor furniture, grills, fire pits, playground equipment, toys, yard decorations, potted plants, or items like trash cans that you cannot move into a storage shed or garage. Attach them to decks or patios with ground anchors with cables or chains. Never bring unsafe items like propane tanks inside.
  • In general, if an object can be safely stored indoors, bring it in. If not, it needs to be anchored where it is located outside. Nothing should be left unsecured as even the heaviest of objects can be moved by the high winds of a hurricane or tornado.

Where do I start?

  • Walk around your yard and find anything that looks like it can be moved by high wind.
  • Start to plan which items will be brought indoors or which items will be secured in place.

More Resources

Why do they matter?

Downed, falling, and damaged trees account for most major wind-related house damage in hurricanes. More than 30 years ago, Hurricane Andrew toppled 38% of the trees in its path. Hurricane Charley knocked down 10,000 trees in Central Florida in 2004, and Hurricane Katrina’s 120 mph-plus wind speeds took down approximately 20% of urban trees in 2005. In October 2018, Hurricane Michael devastated 26 square miles of the tree canopy, an area equal to the size of Pensacola, Florida, plus four additional square miles. The Hurricane Michael tree losses introduced a multi-year wildfire threat as the downed trees decayed across the affected forests.

Tree damage is a dangerous problem in tornadoes as well. Beyond wind intensity; factors influencing tree damage include:

  • Tree species, age, and condition
  • Soil characteristics
  • Rain amount and duration

What do I need to know?

While you cannot build a home strong enough to withstand the weight and impact of a large tree, you can plan and maintain your landscape to reduce the risk of trees falling on your home. Certain species are more vulnerable to wind damage, such as southern pine, pecan, red oak, and water oak. Species with shorter life spans are more susceptible to storm damage as well.

Consider three factors when evaluating your yard: species, tree health, and location. Place trees far enough from your home that they could fall without causing damage. Maintain the space between your home and any nearby tree to ensure it exceeds the fully grown tree height.

In addition to trees, you should evaluate your hardscape and other elements that might cause damage in high winds. Secure or remove barbeque grills, fences, flag poles, garden decorations, lawn furniture, outdoor lights, and swing sets. Anchor building components, such as gutters, downspouts, and exterior air conditioning or pool equipment.

Where do I start?

Evaluate Your Trees

Check your yard for weakened trees that could fall or lose limbs during high winds. Look for:

  • Cracks in the trunk or major limbs
  • Trees that lean or look one-sided
  • Branches that hang over the house or near the roof
  • Tree limbs that touch power lines
  • Obvious decay or mushrooms growing from the bark
  • Insect infestations

Call and text or email a picture to your local home improvement garden center, nursery, or government extension office if you have questions about your trees.

Care for Your Trees

  • Regular and proper pruning can improve the health and vitality of your trees.
  • Remove dead, diseased, or damaged parts of the tree to stop the spread of disease and harmful insects that weaken or destroy the tree.
  • Never prune tree branches flush to the trunk as doing so removes part of the trunk. Leave a small branch section next to the tree trunk to avoid making the tree susceptible to decay or insect damage.
  • Contact a professional to evaluate, limb, or remove large trees near your home. Ensure you hire a skilled, licensed, insured professional as tree removal is dangerous.

Plant strong trees

Some tree species are more prone to storm damage. A tree more likely to survive storms is compact, with a low center of gravity; a strong, sturdy trunk; and a deep, symmetrical root system. City foresters, government extension offices, home improvement garden centers, nurseries, and landscape firms can advise on smart tree selection for your area and soil conditions.

Use Safe Landscaping Materials

Rock and gravel landscaping swiftly become projectiles in high-wind events. Consider replacing these landscaping materials with fire-treated mulch to reduce the risk of damage when severe weather begins.

More Resources

Why does it matter?

According to the Insurance Information Institute, flooding is the most common and costly natural disaster in the United States, causing billions in economic losses each year. The National Flood Insurance Program states that 90 percent of all United States natural disasters involve flooding, making it essential to do all you can to prevent damage. Your yard and landscape are the best places to start.

What do I need to know?

Where it rains, it can flood. However, you can design your yard to help prevent damage by directing water away from your home and foundation with berms and culverts, planting suitable species to absorb water, and using landscape materials that allow water to flow through to the ground.

Where do I start?

  • Encourage water to divert away from your home by taking advantage of any existing ditches or depressions.
  • Dig small channels or add soil mounds or berms to route water in the preferred direction where it can empty in a safer area on your property.
  • Plant native species with deep roots that tolerate wet soil in a garden at least ten feet away from your home in an area that tends to hold water. These plants will help absorb the excess water.
  • Install gutter and downspout diverters to carry water away so that heavy rains do not dump water too close to your home and foundation. Keep your gutters and downspouts clean and debris-free to ensure steady water flow.
  • Build up natural barriers with grasses and plants if your house is located by a hill or slope.
  • Landscape with pervious materials such as gravel or grass and paver combinations to allow water to absorb more easily into the ground.
  • Consider building a retaining wall with stone or brick to redirect water to areas with tolerant plants away from your home.

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  • Contact your local county or community extension office to learn about the best plants to use in your landscape.

Why do they matter?

Maintaining energy efficiency in your home is always important but especially during extreme heat. Ensuring your home can maintain cooler temperatures inside is crucial to remaining safe during hot summer weather.

What do I need to know?

  • Sunlight coming in through the windows is converted to heat as it passes through the window glass.
  • Keeping cooler air inside the home is critical to preventing the temperature from exceeding what can be considered safe indoors.
  • The smallest of air leaks in windows and doors can cause significant air exchange and allow warmer air indoors.

Where do I start?

  • Weather-strip doors and sills to keep cool air in.
  • Caulk any gaps around windows, vents or other wall openings.
  • Cover windows that receive morning or afternoon sun with drapes, shades, awnings, or louvers. (Outdoor awnings or louvers can reduce the heat that enters a home by up to 80 percent.)
  • Keep storm windows up all year.
  • Add insulation to keep the heat out.
  • Install window air conditioners and insulate around them.
  • Consider applying window tint film to those windows that get direct sunlight exposure.

Why do they matter?

Because most gas and water lines are rigid, they can be torn from their connection points during an earthquake. Damaged gas and water lines can injure you and others and damage your property. A broken gas line is especially serious because of its potential to start a fire or cause an explosion.

What do I need to know?

  • One way to prevent broken gas and water lines is to have flexible connection pipes installed between appliances and their supply lines.
  • The same method can be used for other appliances, such as a hot water heater, clothes dryer, stove, or gas furnace.
  • Provide a flexible connection between any external fuel tanks and the supply line and where the supply line enters the house.

Where do I start?

  • Changes to the gas lines and plumbing in your property must be done by a licensed contractor, who will ensure that the work is done correctly and according to all applicable codes. This is important for your safety.
  • A flexible connection will help protect against a small amount of movement but is not designed to function when the appliance it is connected to moves extensively or falls. You should also consider anchoring the appliance to the floor or wall.

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Why does it matter?

High wind events like hurricanes and tornadoes as well as fast-moving floodwaters or tsunamis can move or dislodge fuel tanks causing a threat to you, your family, and others. Take action today to keep your fuel tank in place.

What do I need to know?

  • An unanchored tank can damage your home or other structures when the supply line comes loose, causing fuel spills, contamination, and even fire.
  • If your tank is buried underground, water saturation can push it to the surface.
  • One of the most effective fuel tank anchoring methods is an attachment to a concrete slab with sufficient weight to withstand the force of floodwaters or high winds. Tanks located outside can also be anchored by running straps over it and using turnbuckles to attach them to the concrete slab.
  • See FEMA. Anchor Fuel Tanks for more details on these methods.

Where do I start?

  • Keep floodwaters out of the tank by extending all filling and ventilation tubes above the 100-year Base Flood Elevation (BFE) or expected flood level.
  • Shut off all connections once flood watches and warnings are issued.

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Why does it matter?

Earthquakes may move fuel tanks. When a fuel tank falls, fire or an explosion is possible. Even when a tank remains on its legs, the shaking of an earthquake can break the supply line connection and escaping gas can cause a fire. Similar risks exist with smaller, compressed gas cylinders, which are often stored inside a house or garage.

Anchor your fuel tank to avoid serious threats to you, others, your property, public safety, and the environment.

What do I need to know?

  • Anchor and brace propane tanks and compressed gas cylinders to prevent damage to them during an earthquake.
  • Some compressed gas cylinders cannot be permanently anchored because they have to be periodically replaced. But you can use chains or straps to attach them to a wall so that they will remain upright.
  • Provide a flexible connection between the fuel tank and the supply line, and where the supply line enters the house. Only a licensed contractor should add a flexible connection to a propane tank line for your safety and the security of your property.

Where do I start?

  • Before you alter your fuel tank in any way, make sure that the tank is your property and not rented from the gas supplier.
  • If you prefer not to do this work yourself, you can have a contractor anchor your tank.
  • Clear the area around the tank to ensure that there are no tall or heavy objects that could fall on the tank or break the supply line connection.
  • Store a wrench near the shutoff valve and ensure your family knows how to turn off the supply line if they smell a gas leak.
  • On larger tanks, consider installing a seismic shutoff valve that will automatically turn off the gas by closing the valve during an earthquake.
  • If you wish to secure a compressed gas cylinder or other such tank to a wall, use two lengths of chain around the cylinder: one just below the top of the cylinder and one just above the bottom. Attached the chains to eye hooks that are screwed into the wall structure. In wood-frame walls, the eye hooks must be long enough to penetrate the wall and the studs behind it. In concrete or masonry block walls, install the eye hooks with epoxy, expansion anchors, or toggle bolts.

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Why does it matter?

The contents of your home can be as dangerous as the structure itself during an earthquake, or even more prone to cause you or your family injury. This is especially true of items that hang on the walls such as artwork or other interior decorations.

What do I need to know?

During an earthquake the following household items can become dangerous:

  • Framed pictures and mirrors not securely attached to walls can fall, and broken glass that may result increases the potential for injury.
  • Objects such as framed photos and other items hung on walls can become falling and flying hazards during a seismic event.

Where do I start?

  • Mirrors, picture frames, and other hanging items should be secured to the wall with closed hooks or earthquake putty. Do not hang heavy objects over beds, sofas, or any place you may be seated.
  • The number of eye-hooks needed for a picture or mirror depends on its size and weight. Large pictures and mirrors are more stable when mounted on two hooks rather than one.
  • Make sure that eye-hooks penetrate both the wall and the studs behind it. Use eye-hooks at least 1 to 2 inches long.
  • For both picture wire and closed eye-hooks on the back of the picture or mirror, ensure the mounting hardware is securely attached to the frame.

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Why does it matter?

The contents of your home can be as dangerous as the structure itself during an earthquake, and may be even more prone to cause harm to you or your family. Any unsecured objects that can move, break, or fall as an earthquake shakes your home are potential safety hazards and property losses. During an earthquake, large pieces of furniture can fall on you or others and block exits which could prevent you from escaping. Anchoring furniture so that it remains in place can prevent injuries and protect your home and its contents.

What do I need to know?

During an earthquake the following household items can become dangerous:

  • Cabinet doors can fly open allowing contents to crash to the floor.
  • Objects such as books, lamps, and other items on shelves and tables can become flying hazards.

Where do I start?

  • Install latches on cabinet doors to prevent them from opening and spilling out their contents.
  • Secure your water heater, refrigerator, and other major appliances with the appropriate straps screwed into the wall studs or masonry to help keep them from falling over and rupturing gas or electric connections.
  • Support ceiling fans and light pendants with the use of bracing wire secured to a screw eye embedded at least an inch into the ceiling joist.
  • Secure heavy furniture like bookcases, china cabinets, and entertainment centers with flexible fasteners and make sure they are away from beds, sofas, desks, or other places where people sit or sleep.
  • Furniture can be anchored with metal “L” brackets and screws along its top or sides (either inside or outside of the furniture) with screws through its back or with nylon strapping.
  • Ensure anchoring screws penetrate not just the wall, but the studs behind it too. Screws only in drywall or plaster will pull out.
  • Before anchoring a bookcase with screws through its back, ensure the back is sturdy and securely attached to the sides, top, and bottom. Some bookcases have backs of very thin materials, held in place with small screws or staples that can easily pull out. Those bookcases should be anchored with brackets.
  • Consider connecting two or more bookcases or file cabinets that sit next to each other to one another and the wall. This can increase the stability of the bookcases or file cabinets.
  • If possible, move all bookcases, file cabinets, and other large pieces of furniture away from exits so that if they do fall, they won’t prevent you from escaping.
  • To prevent the contents of your bookcases from falling out, you can install a thin metal or plastic wire, a wood dowel or even an elastic guardrail across the front of each shelf.
  • Keep the tops of your bookcases free of heavy items, especially if they are located near beds or desks, where persons could be injured from falling items.
  • Electronics such as computers, televisions, and microwave ovens are heavy and expensive to replace. Store them on lower shelves and secure them with flexible nylon straps.
  • Ensure that plumbers have installed flexible connectors on all gas appliances.
  • Strap the top and bottom of a water heater using heavy-gauge metal strapping secured to wall studs.
  • Locate your gas shutoff valve and ensure you know how to turn off the gas supply to your home with the use of a suitable wrench.

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Why does it matter?

Pipes can freeze in winter’s low temperatures. This freezing can cause major damage to your home if a pipe ruptures and leaks once it thaws.

What do I need to know?

  • Water freezes when it expands, potentially causing water pipes to burst.
  • Be ready to shut off the water valves if a pipe bursts.

Where do I start?

  • Set your thermostat at 55 degrees or warmer.
  • Open cabinet doors so heat can warm uninsulated pipes under sinks and appliances near exterior walls.
  • Purchase a sump pump and know how it operates to protect the basement from water damage in case large amounts of snow begin to melt.

Foam, Dome & Drip

For as little as $1 per 6’ of insulation, you can stop pipes from freezing during winter, even when the power goes out.

Here are more ways to protect your home:

  • Foam: Insulate pipes exposed to the elements or cold drafts with insulating foam.
  • Dome: Place an insulating dome or other covering on outdoor faucets and spigots to reduce the likelihood of the water in your pipes freezing, expanding, and causing a costly leak.
  • Drip: Drip faucets to reduce the build-up of pressure in the pipes. Even if the pipes freeze, you have released the pressure from the water system, reducing the likelihood of a rupture. If you are going out of town and suspect that temperatures will drop or a power outage will occur, turn off the water to your home and open all of the taps to drain the water system. This way, you won’t return to a frozen, soggy mess.

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Why do they matter?

Attachments to your home, such as decks, porches, fences or sheds, can act as fuses or fuel bridges for a wildfire, particularly if constructed from flammable materials.  

What do I need to know?

  • Embers, firebrands, and hot gasses can become lodged or trapped at the following places: under decks and other attached structures, where the structures attach to the home, in between board decking, against exterior walls, and at railing edges.
  • Consider attachments of your home part of your home. Attachments include any additional structures attached such as room pushouts, bay windows, decks, porches, carports, and fences. These features are often very vulnerable to convective exposures.

Where do I start?

Fences and walls

  • Build fences and walls with noncombustible materials, and note that the shape, size, and materials used provide different levels of protection or risk in a wildfire. At the least, ensure that any combustible components are at least 10 feet from the building to prevent heat and flames from igniting the building.
  • Typical fencing and wall materials are wood, plastic, composite, metal, wire, concrete, stone, and masonry. Wood is the most combustible, and concrete, stone, and masonry are noncombustible. Softwoods and preservative treated pine are combustible, while dense hardwoods such as red oak and others are more fire resistant. Plastic fences provide better fire resistance, durability, and often strength than wooden fences, but they can melt. Metal fences are more fire-resistant than plastic fences; however, under certain conditions, a metal fence can also act as a horizontal ladder fuel. Concrete, stone, or masonry are the most effective at minimizing the potential for damage to a building from a wildfire.
  • Avoid fences with gaps because airborne firebrands can become trapped in the gaps and ignite the fence.
  • The common wooden post-and-board fence can become fuel for a wildfire, especially old, weather-beaten fences, and collect embers and firebrands, acting as a horizontal ladder for fuel. If you attach an all-wood fence to your home, use masonry or metal as a protective barrier between the fence and the house. 
  • Maintain your fence or wall, and clear any combustible debris near your fence or wall regularly. Also consider the type of landscape vegetation used, as unmanaged landscape vegetation can increase the likelihood that a fence will ignite. See Landscaping article for more information.
  • If you build a trellis, use non-flammable metal and cover it with high moisture, fire-resistant vegetation. 

Decks

  • Decks are often built at the top of a slope, which is at a high risk of ignition. Consider building and deck orientation to reduce the risk of exposure to a wildfire.
  • Decks built with dimensioned lumber are combustible and can ignite quickly.
  • Prevent combustible materials and debris from gathering beneath a patio deck or elevated porches; screen underneath or box in areas below the deck or porch with wire mesh no larger than 1/8 of an inch.
  • Surround any attached structure with noncombustible material such as gravel, brick, or concrete pavers to prevent vegetative growth and reduce fuel in a wildfire.
  • For decking and stair treads, use exterior fire-retardant-treated wood, minimum 3-inch nominal thickness, or brick or concrete pavers and a suitable drainage mat over wood decking or metal grates, or light, poured concrete.
  • For existing decks, replace combustible materials with noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.
  • Replace dimensional timber railings with fire-resistant materials such as metal, tempered glass, cables, or 3-inch nominal thickness fire-retardant-treated wood.
  • Construct deck skirting using fire-resistant or noncombustible material such as fiber-cement boards, and/or construct a patio on the ground around the deck, stairs, or ramp.
  • When there is no skirting, install a soffit at the underside of balconies, decks, stair landings, or ramps.
  • Maintain decks and other attached structures by replacing deteriorated components before they lose their fire-resistance.

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