Why do they matter?

Utilities that penetrate your home can be a threat in a wildfire, and exterior equipment (ex: solar panels and receiver dishes) can be damaged by the high temperatures from a wildfire.

What do I need to know?

• Pressurized and liquid fuels (typically used for heating, hot water, and cooking) are flammable and explosive.
• Exterior equipment often has combustible components, and openings for ducting and conduit may be a vulnerability during a wildfire.
• Wildfires can affect power transmission, damage equipment, or cause a short circuit in the lines.
• Consider the potential effects of power outages and surges on utilities and exterior equipment: electrically-powered equipment miles away may be damaged, and water well power supplies are vulnerable.
• Roof-mounted equipment has the same ignition potential as the roofing assembly.
• Exposed, combustible delivery lines are vulnerable to wildfire (ex: pipe connections that include a rubberized gasket).
• Venting of fuel under pressure may cause significant damage or total destruction of your home.

Where do I start?

• Install utility and equipment connections underground, if possible. If underground installation isn’t possible, seal gaps and penetrations in exterior walls and roofs with fire-resistant materials. Fill large gaps with intumescent or fire-protective sheets or pillows. Use fire-resistant wrap around ventilation features that are built into and penetrate exterior walls (ex: air conditioners).
• Shield power cables and other wiring with noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.
• Use noncombustible or fire-resistant materials to mount roof-mounted equipment.
• Use surge protectors for valuable electronic equipment.
• Install Class A rated solar cell systems.
• Place fuel storage vessels 30 feet from your home, away from downhill slopes, and enclose vessels behind a noncombustible masonry wall. Bury pressurized storage vessels underground, if possible.
• Bury or shield fuel lines.
• Shield gas meters with noncombustible materials.
• Ensure pressurized storage tanks have a pressure relief valve.
• Use defensible space for the location of utilities and exterior equipment (ex: electric water pumps, fuel tanks).
• Reduce any potential combustible debris around exterior equipment.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why do they matter?

When you think about flooding, you probably think about water coming in from outside your home. But during flood events, floodwater can also enter your home through the wastewater plumbing system designed to carry sewage out of your home. When flooding occurs, sewage systems can be overwhelmed, pushing sewage from sanitary sewer lines to back up through drain pipes. These backups cause damage and create health hazards.

What do I need to know?

Backflow valves can block the flow of sewage backup. Consider the following when installing backflow valves:

• Installing a backflow preventer valve and system is an affordable way to prevent expensive damage inside your home. Professional installation can cost an average of $350.00 for a simple system.
• Valves have different complexities, tightness of the seals, and ease of use.
• Gate valves are usually complex and require hand operation, whereas flap or check valves are simple and allow flow out and close automatically when the flow reverses. Note that flap or check valves are not as tight as gate valves, and require periodic testing. Many municipalities require annual testing.
• Other valves combine gate and flap valves into one design.
• All pipes that run from your home or that are connected to equipment or appliances below potential flood levels need valves. This includes washing machine drain lines, laundry sinks, fuel oil lines, rain downspouts, sump pumps, and sewer/septic connections.

Where Do I Start?

• Contact a licensed plumber to determine the best method for your plumbing system. Ensure you schedule an annual checkup to ensure your backflow preventer system works when you need it most.

More Resources:

• FEMA. Valves Can Prevent Costly, Hazardous Sewage Backup.
• FEMA. Install Sewer Backflow Valves.
• FEMA P-499, Home Builder’s Guide to Coastal Construction.

Why does it matter?

Electrical system components, including service panels (fuse and circuit breaker boxes), meters, switches, and outlets, are easily damaged by flood water. If they are flooded, even for short periods, they will probably need to be replaced. The potential for fires from shorted circuits in flooded systems is a serious problem. Raising electrical system components helps protect electrical system components from damage. And having an undamaged, operating electrical system after a flood will help you clean up, make repairs, and return to your property with fewer delays.

What do I need to know?

• All components of the electrical system, including the wiring, all switches, and receptacles, should be raised at least 1 foot above the 100-year flood level (BFE or required freeboard levels).
• In an existing home, elevating the electrical system will require the removal of some interior wall sheathing (ex: drywall). It is easier to elevate the electrical system if you are repairing a flood-damaged home or building a new home.
• If your home’s electrical system was affected by a flood, DO NOT energize and use the system until it can be inspected by a licensed electrician. Electrical systems do not “dry out” after being inundated by flood water as damage may have occurred.

Where Do I Start?

• Electrical system modifications must be done by a licensed contractor to ensure that the work is done correctly and according to all applicable building codes. This is important for your safety.
• Your contractor should check with the local power company about the maximum height for raising the electric meter. Some power companies now use smart meters that can be read remotely.
• If your home has an old-style fuse box or low-amperage service, consider upgrading to a modern circuit breaker system and higher-amperage service, especially if you have large appliances or other electrical equipment that draws a lot of power.
• You may also want to elevate electric service lines (where they enter your home) at least 12 inches above the projected flood elevation.

More Resources:

• FEMA. Protect Your Home from Flooding, Low-Cost Projects You Can Do Yourself.
• FEMA P-312, Homeowner’s Guide to Retrofitting 3rd Edition (2014).
• FEMA P-55, Coastal Construction Manual: Principles and Practices of Planning, Siting, Designing, Constructing, and Maintaining Residential Buildings in Coastal Areas.

Why does it matter?

It can flood anywhere it can rain, so it’s important to protect your major appliances from any water that could enter your home. Even if your appliances are in the garage or exterior portions of the home, you can protect them by simply elevating them above the expected levels of flood waters.

What do I need to know?

• Just a few inches of water can permanently damage many appliances.
• Flood water is not clean water.
• Several hours of inundation can permanently affect the internal components of items such as washers, dryers, furnaces, and air conditioning equipment.
• Appliances that may need protection from flood water include:
  • Washers & Dryers
  • HVAC equipment
  • Water heaters
  • Electrical panels and electrical service components, such as switches and receptacles
  • Telephone, computer, and communications equipment

Where do I start?

Interior items

• Determine what the potential flood water elevation is for your area by finding your flood zone and Base Flood Elevation (BFE).
• Elevated appliances, such as those in the list above, by at least one foot above the expected flood level.
• Items can be elevated on masonry or platforms made from other flood-resistant materials, such as pressure-treated lumber graded for that purpose.
• Specially designed stands for components, such as water heaters, can be purchased directly. These are specifically designed for the desired elevation height and expected weight of the water heater.
• Another option is to relocate appliances to higher levels of the home outside of the depth of potential flood waters.
• Some items, such as HVAC components, can be mounted on walls or suspended from ceiling joists if the unit is designed for such mounting and the walls or ceiling is strong enough. Consult a mechanical contractor to determine this type of relocation.
• Consider contacting a licensed electrician to elevate any electrical switches or receptacles above potential flood levels as the inundation of even these secondary components can affect the entire electrical system.

Outside Equipment

• Outside air conditioning compressors, heat pumps, or package units (single units that include a furnace and air conditioner) can be placed on a base made of masonry, concrete, or pressure-treated lumber. Ensure all work conforms to applicable building codes.
• In new construction, outdoor equipment will often have to be placed at the Base Flood Elevation (BFE), including any local freeboard requirements as part of the permitting and inspection process.
• Elevation of outdoor equipment can also be achieved by having the components mounted on the side of your home. Consult an engineer to determine how best to do this as some components can be heavy and require special designs to carry the weight.
• Be sure to anchor mounted, elevated exterior appliances to secure them against any high winds they might experience. Learn more about anchoring fuel tanks.
• Install sewer backflow valves to prevent sewage entry into your home during flooding.
• Do not overlook your landscape. Observe how water flows around your home and use culverts and landscaping to ensure it flows away from your foundation.

More Resources

• FEMA. Protect Your Home from Flooding, Low-Cost Projects You Can Do Yourself.
• FEMA P-312, Homeowner’s Guide to Retrofitting 3rd Edition.
• FEMA P-55, Coastal Construction Manual: Principles and Practices of Planning, Siting, Designing, Constructing, and Maintaining Residential Buildings in Coastal Areas.