Prepare for Disasters

Your life can change in the blink of an eye.

Why does it matter?

Wildfire-resistant roofing refers to using building materials and construction techniques designed to minimize the risk of fire damage to roofs and homes during a wildfire. This is especially important in areas prone to wildfires, where traditional roofing materials such as wood shingles or asphalt may be vulnerable to ignition.
Embers, or firebrands, are small particles of combustible building material, trees, shrubs, or other vegetation that ignite during a wildfire. Windborne embers can fly up to two miles ahead of a wildfire perimeter and cause the ignition to 90% of destroyed homes.

Flying embers can land on or near your home, especially your roof, so it is critical to have a fire-resistant roof and reduce the chances of your home catching fire.

What do I need to know?

One common type of wildfire-resistant roofing is metal roofing, which is highly resistant to flames and flying embers. Metal roofing is typically more expensive than traditional roofing materials but can provide excellent protection against fire. Metal roofs can be made of various materials, such as aluminum, steel, or copper. They can be installed in shingle, tile, or standing seam configurations.

Another option is using fire-resistant shingles, typically made of asphalt or fiberglass, and treated with fire retardants to make them less flammable. These shingles can be slightly more expensive than traditional shingles. Still, they are highly effective in reducing the risk of fire damage.

Additionally, installing a fire-resistant underlayment beneath the roofing material can provide extra protection against embers and flames. This underlayment is typically made of non-combustible fiberglass or mineral wool.
Understanding roof classification differences is essential for choosing a wildfire-resistant covering.
• Class A roofs are preferred as they are the most fire-resistant roof covering type. They include asphalt fiberglass composition shingles, flat/barrel-shaped clay and cementitious tiles, and some metal materials.

• Class B roofs include treated wood shake roofs but are not allowed or recommended in most wildfire-risk locations.

• Class C roofs made from recycled plastic, rubber, or aluminum are treated with fire-resistant coating and installed with fire-resistant materials such as an additional fireproof layer. Still, the coatings can wear out over time due to weather and exposure.

Where do I start?

Installing a fire-resistant roof is an important safety measure that can help protect your home and property from fire damage. Here are some steps to follow when installing a fire-resistant roof:

  1. Choose fire-resistant roofing materials: Several types of roofing materials are naturally fire-resistant, including metal, clay, and concrete tiles. Some other materials, such as asphalt shingles, can be treated with fire-resistant coatings. Be sure to select roofing materials with a Class A fire rating, which is the highest level of fire resistance.
  2. Install fire-resistant underlayment: Underlayment is a layer of material installed underneath the roofing material to provide additional protection against water and weather. Fire-resistant underlayment is made of materials such as fiberglass or mineral wool and can help prevent fire from spreading through the roof.
  3. Use fire-resistant flashing: Flashing is a thin piece of material installed around roof penetrations such as chimneys, vents, and skylights to prevent water from seeping in. Fire-resistant flashing is made of copper, aluminum, or stainless steel and can help prevent fire from spreading through roof penetrations.
  4. Install fire-resistant sheathing: The sheathing is the layer that covers the roof deck and provides a base for the roofing material. The fire-resistant sheathing is made of gypsum or fiber cement and can help prevent fire from spreading from the roof deck into the attic.
  5. Install a fire-resistant ridge vent: A ridge vent is a type of ventilation system installed along the ridge of the roof to allow hot air to escape from the attic. Fire-resistant ridge vents are made of materials such as metal or ceramic. They can help prevent fire from spreading through the ventilation system.
  6. Ensure proper installation: It is essential to have the roof installed by a professional experienced in installing fire-resistant roofing materials. Correct installation ensures that the roof provides maximum protection against fire.
  7. Keep your roof clear of debris at all times.

More Resources:

FLASH Buyers Guide to Resilient Homes – Wildfire Checklist
FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones
FEMA How to Prepare for a Wildfire
FEMA Rebuilding After a Wildfire

Why does it matter?

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), hail causes approximately $1 billion in damages to crops and property in the United States each year.
Hail can range in size from small pellets to softball-sized and can fall at speeds of up to 100 miles per hour. When hail strikes roofs, it can damage shingles, tiles, or metal panels, leading to leaks and water damage. Additionally, hail can break windows, dent cars, and damage outdoor equipment and furniture.

What do I need to know?

An impact-resistant roof is a roofing system designed to withstand severe weather, such as strong winds, hailstorms, and flying debris. These roofs are typically made from durable materials, such as metal, concrete, or specially designed asphalt shingles, that are designed to absorb the impact of high-speed objects without sustaining significant damage.

Impact-resistant roofs are rated based on their ability to resist damage from hail and wind. The ratings are determined by industry-standard tests that involve dropping steel balls of various sizes and weights onto the roofing materials to simulate the impact of hail. Roofs that pass these tests receive a Class 1, 2, 3, or 4 rating, with Class 4 being the most impact-resistant.

Impact-resistant roof coverings require additional costs, but the investment is worthwhile for the added damage protection for homeowners. When you use these types of materials, you may also lower insurance premiums in areas prone to severe weather, such as Texas.

Where do I start?

Choose impact-resistant roof coverings when reroofing or building a new home.

More Resources:

Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety – Hail Shingle Performance Ratings

Why do they matter?

Attic ventilator fans are an important component of a home’s cooling system during extreme heat situations, providing several benefits, such as reducing heat buildup, preventing moisture damage, extending roof life, and lowering energy costs.

What do I need to know?

Attic ventilator fans are installed in the attic of your home to help regulate the temperature and humidity levels in the space. The fan works by drawing hot and humid air out of the attic and replacing it with cooler, drier air from outside.

Attic ventilator fans come in different shapes and sizes, typically consisting of a motorized fan blade housed within a frame or housing. The fan is usually mounted on the roof or in a gable vent and is connected to a thermostat that automatically turns it on and off based on the temperature in the attic.

Some types of attic ventilator fans are powered by electricity, while others are powered by solar panels. They can be useful in reducing cooling costs by preventing the buildup of hot air in the attic, which can transfer heat into the living spaces below.

Extreme heat can cause damage to roofing materials, such as shingles, by causing them to expand and contract, leading to cracking and other damage. Attic ventilator fans help to reduce heat buildup, which can prolong the life of roofing materials and prevent premature deterioration.

Lowering Energy Costs: When attic temperatures rise, it can cause the air conditioning system to work harder to keep the living space cool, leading to higher energy costs. Attic ventilator fans help to reduce the temperature in the attic, which can reduce the load on the air conditioning system and lower energy costs.

Where do I start?

Contact a licensed roofer or HVAC specialty contractor to discover your installation options.

Why do they matter?

Masonry fireplaces and chimneys in earthquake-prone regions are particularly vulnerable to earthquake damage. Build or retrofit your home with a fireplace and chimney appropriate for an earthquake-prone area.

What do I need to know?

  • Unreinforced masonry (URM) chimneys are highly vulnerable to earthquake damage; their behavior is a common consideration of seismic intensity as in the Modified Mercalli Intensity (MMI) scale.   
  • Masonry fireplaces and chimneys can be heavy and rigid, and existing chimneys are often brittle.
  • Your home and the fireplace and chimney may have significantly different responses to earthquake ground motions, creating the potential for damage to both the house and the fireplace and chimney. 
  • Even without signs of damage from an earthquake, the masonry or flue liner may have cracked, so it is vital to have them inspected before reuse.
  • Factory-built fireplaces and flues within light-frame fireplace enclosures and chimneys can be used due to their typically good performance during earthquakes. However, you must pay special attention to the detailing of framing anchorage and adhere to the installation instructions specifications for combustible wood framing clearances. 
  • Restoring the outside surface of deteriorated mortar joints (repointing) or patching isolated masonry cracks are aesthetic repairs and regular chimney maintenance. However, they are insufficient reinforcement to increase performance during an earthquake. 

Where do I start?

  • Constructing or retrofitting a chimney and fireplace requires expertise, so a licensed contractor should perform this type of work to ensure it is done safely and meets the building code requirements.

More Resources:

FEMA 232, Homebuilders’ Guide to Earthquake Resistant Design and Construction

FEMA. Repair of Earthquake-Damaged Masonry Fireplace Chimneys: South Napa Earthquake Recovery Advisory.

Why do they matter?

Strong foundations keep your house stable during earthquakes by resisting seismic forces that pass underneath it. A house with strong wall-to-foundation anchorage will help prevent your home from sliding or moving during an earthquake.

Your strong home foundation is one of the essential parts of your resilient home. 

What do I need to know?

  • A house with a stem wall foundation has a wood-framed first floor on a raised concrete perimeter made from reinforced masonry (CMU or cinder blocks).
  • You can anchor and reinforce a stem wall foundation using foundation bolts or foundation plates.

Where do I start?

  • Consult your contractor or professional engineer when considering earthquake retrofitting options for your existing home.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why do they matter?

Strong foundations help stabilize your house during earthquakes, floods, high winds, hurricanes, and tornadoes. They resist hydrostatic forces of water, carry wind forces down to the ground, and resist seismic forces as they pass underneath your home. A house with strong wall-to-foundation anchorage and connections will help prevent your home from collapsing, moving, sinking, sliding, tipping, or overturning during disasters.

A strong home foundation is one of the essential parts of your resilient home. 

What do I need to know?

House design, budget, climate, location, soil conditions, and moisture are the main factors used when selecting a foundation type for your home. Three main types of foundations are commonly used for residential and single-family homes.

  • Poured concrete or “slab-on-grade” foundations are the most common type used for houses, especially in climates that do not experience winter freezes. This foundation is constructed by pouring concrete into a steel-reinforced mold on a framed gravel bed. You can adapt this foundation for use in colder climates with insulation and by adding concrete footings that extend into the ground below the expected frost line.
  • Permanent wood foundations are less common than poured concrete but offer lightweight, high-strength, durable options for home construction. These foundations are constructed using treated, moisture-and decay-resistant lumber or engineered wood. The advantages of this type of foundation are that they are simple to build, insulate, and weatherproof. The disadvantage may be that this foundation cannot handle the heaviest loads.
  • Raised Foundations are common along the coast and in flood-prone regions, as they can support the home while resisting moisture conditions. There are two main types of raised foundations, stem wall and pier-and-beam. Note: Pier-and-beam is sometimes called post-and-beam, but generally, pier refers to concrete, and post refers to wood.

A house with a stem wall foundation has a wood-framed first floor attached to a raised concrete perimeter made from reinforced masonry (CMU or cinder blocks.) A pier-and-beam foundation is a system of vertical pillars or piers extended into the ground on footers. The piers support the joist system that holds up your home’s floor.

Retrofitting wood and raised foundations to strengthen their performance in disasters is cost-effective and relatively simple. Retrofitting poured concrete foundations may be more costly as it could require some drywall removal to create access.

Where do I start?

  • Consult a contractor or professional engineer whether designing a foundation for your new home or retrofitting an existing home. However, some retrofitting grant programs provide pre-approved plans with prescribed strengthening and anchoring methods.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why do they matter?

Cripple (or crawl space) walls are relatively short frame walls that extend from the top of your home’s foundation to the bottom of the first floor. These walls typically enclose a crawl space or are part of a stepped foundation when a home is on a slope or uneven ground. During an earthquake, these walls become stressed and can fail, leading to severe building damage.

What do I need to know?

  • Cripple walls are the most highly vulnerable of all light-frame walls because they must resist the shaking forces that act on the entire house during an earthquake.
  • Older homes with cripple walls constructed without modern seismic building codes have weak connections between the wall and foundation because of the weaker sheathing type and inadequate attachment methods.
  • Houses with stepped concrete or masonry foundation walls with unbraced cripple walls often fail in earthquake shaking.
  • Decay, rot, and termite damage can also affect the cripple wall strength.
  • Cripple walls are highly susceptible to earthquake damage; however, they are also one of the least expensive and easiest parts of your house to retrofit for improved seismic performance.  

Where do I start?

  • Before beginning your retrofitting project, inspect the existing cripple walls for rot, decay, or termite damage. Have all damage repaired and replace framing materials in areas where moisture is present or in contact with the foundation. Use pressure-treated lumber and decay-resistant materials.
  • Anchor the base of the cripple wall (foundation sill plate) to the foundation, and anchor the top to the first-floor framing above.
  • Cover, or sheath, the cripple wall with wood structural panels on the exterior or interior side of the crawl space walls.
  • In general, cripple walls should not be higher than four feet in houses with crawl spaces or basements.

FEMA. Brace Cripple Walls.

FEMA DR-4193-RA2. Earthquake Strengthening of Cripple Walls in Wood-Frame Dwellings. 

Why does it matter?

It is essential to strengthen soft and weak-story homes with first-floor open areas or parking underneath, such as garage apartments. This type of condition is especially vulnerable to collapse in earthquakes because the strength of the bottom story is substantially less than the stories above it.

What do I need to know?

  • Garages with living space above are among the most common examples of residential soft stories.
  • Two-story homes can also exhibit soft-story weakness if the first floor has relatively large window and door openings with fewer supporting interior walls than the floors above.
  • Soft story conditions can exist when perimeter cripple walls have no inside face sheathing and under-floor basement areas have few or no interior walls to provide interior support.
  • Any story can become a soft story if earthquake loading exceeds the design strength of that story.

Where do I start?

  • Consult a licensed engineer to determine the most effective way to upgrade and increase the strength and stiffness of your first story if you have a weak or soft story condition.

Where to explore and more:

FEMA 232, Homebuilders’ Guide to Earthquake-Resistant Design and Construction 

Why does it matter?

Electrical strikes and lightning surges can damage and destroy appliances, electronic devices, and cause devastating house fires. Reduce or prevent lightning damage by installing a professional lightning protection system, whole house surge protection, or a series of point-of-use appliance and electronics protective devices.

No lightning protection device or system can guarantee 100% damage prevention from a direct lightning strike or lightning that enters through unprotected telephone, cable, or power lines to the house. However, you can avoid dangerous and expensive damage to your home.

What do I need to know?

The most comprehensive home lightning protection system is a lightning protection system. Lightning protection systems installed on your home provide a direct path for lightning to follow to the ground while bypassing your house structure, wiring, telephone, and cable lines. The system includes: strike termination devices, conductors, ground terminals, interconnecting bonding, and surge protection devices to prevent harmful electrical surges.

If you have trees taller than 10 feet, you may need to install lightning protection on those as well.

If you cannot afford a professionally-installed lightning protection system, consider a whole house surge protection system, multiple point-of-use protection devices for your cable system, computer, phone, televisions, and other electronic appliances. A whole-house surge protection system can be installed on the electric meter or the electrical panel to help protect the appliances and electronic equipment in your home, such as computers, TVs, and DVD players.

Where do I start?

  • Consult a qualified contractor (UL-listed/LPI-certified or qualified electrician) for the installation of a Lightning Protection System.
  • Contact your utility provider to see if they offer whole house surge protection options.
  • Protect your electronics and appliances with surge protection devices. Surge protectors safeguard electronics and electrical appliances from all but the most severe electrical surges or direct strikes.
    • Ordinary power strips do not necessarily provide surge protection, so read the descriptions carefully.
    • Check your surge protector to ensure it is a “transient voltage surge suppressor” and that it meets Underwriters Laboratories (UL) Safety Standard 1449.

More Resources

The Lightning Protection Institute has information about lightning protection in homes, including details on a Lightning Protection System.

Why does it matter?

Equipment such as heating, air conditioning, satellite dishes, or solar collectors mounted on the roof of a home or other elevated areas pose a risk during an earthquake due to their weight and mass. Preventing these elements from breaking loose can avoid damage and injury, and also help with recovery after an earthquake as these systems can remain operational. Additionally, anchoring these items makes them more resistant to high winds.

What do I need to know?

  • Improperly or unanchored mechanical equipment can slide, tilt, overturn, or fall.
  • These items may be damaged by shaking, or they may be crushed by other fallen components.
  • Failed large mechanical equipment may fall or otherwise damage structural elements.
  • While vibration isolation is used to ensure the proper day-to-day operation of equipment in preventing vibrations, this equipment is particularly vulnerable to earthquake damage. Standard springs used for isolation do not have adequate capacity to resist shear and uplift forces.

Where do I start?

  • Although a general rule of thumb is to anchor larger equipment, its a best practice to securely anchor ALL items attached to rooftops or other locations where they can become dislodged and cause other problems.
  • Look for equipment that has been shake table tested and is rated for seismic loading.
  • Ask about seismic load ratings and seismic anchorage details when you purchase any new equipment such as air conditioning units.
  • Ensure connections of fuel lines, electrical lines, optical cable, piping, or ductwork are correctly secured to avoid damage.
  • Install flexible connections for fuel lines, piping, and electrical lines where they connect to rigidly mounted equipment.
  • Elevated, ceiling-mounted, or rooftop units require special considerations. These units are typically mounted on curbs or platforms to enhance waterproofing and flashing.
  • Curbs upon which rooftop equipment is mounted may be custom-built on site or pre-manufactured. Seismic restraints for the curbs must include the connection between the equipment and the curb, and the attachment of the curb and the roof framing. Also, the curb must be sufficiently strong. If the equipment is internally isolated, increase the design forces for the anchorage appropriately.
  • Many of these retrofits will require a licensed contractor to perform due to their complexity and access to hard-to-reach areas such as rooftops or ceilings.
  • Install some means of bumpers or vendor-supplied restraints in systems with vibration dampeners.

More Resources

Why do they matter?

In a high-wind event such as a hurricane or tornado, keeping the roof on your home is a top priority as is protecting it from wind-borne debris and hail. A resilient roof system will provide wind-resistance and impact-resistance when it counts the most.

What do I need to know?

The roof is the primary structural element of the house, transferring the loads that act on the walls facing the wind into the walls that are parallel to the wind. The roof structure includes framing and roof sheathing, which is covered by a roof covering that serves as a barrier to weather and keeps water from entering the structure.

Roof framing can be composed of either rafters cut from dimensional lumber, often called “conventional framing,” or engineered trusses. Either can provide a strong and secure means of framing a roof. Proper design and installation of roof framing is critical, including the connections of any roof elements by a mechanical means such as metal connectors.

The main structural components of the roof assembly include:

  • Strong nailing of the roof deck to the framing, especially at the edges
  • Connection of the roof to shear walls with blocking
  • An unbroken double top plate on the shear walls that acts as a structural chord.

The connections between the roof and walls are crucial, including:

  • Rafter at Ridge Board. Typical construction practices include cutting out a ridge vent in the roof decking to allow for air to flow freely from inside the attic. This free flow of air causes an unintended weakening of the roof diaphragm at a critical location because the ridge board serves at a boundary of the roof diaphragm. When the decking is cut away for the vent, the decking is no longer connected between the rafters. Installing a strap or straps will strengthen the connection between rafters allowing for roof venting at the ridge.
  • Rafter at Top of Wall. Rafters attached to the top of a wall in a high-wind zone should be fastened to the top plates of the wall with more than just framing nails. Typically, metal connectors, straps, or clips, are specified to hold down the rafter. Eave blocking between the rafters in high winds does more than keep the birds out of the attic; it helps tie the roof diaphragm to the walls and keeps the rafters from rolling due to lateral loads.
  • For Concrete Design, the top plate is anchored to solid concrete or grouted masonry.
  • Truss at Top of Wall. When a truss attaches at the top of the wall, it is similar to a rafter in the hold-down connection. A metal strap or clip is specified to hold down the truss in the same way a rafter is held down, but the eave blocking detail is somewhat different. Most local building codes do not require full eave blocking when trusses are used for the roof structure; however, 2×4 blocks should be installed to help resist lateral loading.

Ensure the same strong roof design and connections are made throughout the house, including other areas such as porches, lanais, carports, and breezeways.

Where do I start?

  • If you’re not ready to reroof, contact a home inspector or licensed roofer to evaluate your roof and identify any retrofit options such as installing additional metal connectors to secure the roof to the wall.
  • If you’re ready to reroof, ask your roofer to include resilience upgrades such as installing a high-wind resistant roof covering, renailing the roof sheathing, and installing a secondary water barrier to seal the roof deck.

More Resources:

  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition
  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why do they matter?

When windows break and allow wind to enter your home, the pressure can build until it eventually causes the weakest part of your home to rupture. Think of it like blowing up a balloon. Once the internal pressure reaches a certain level, it pops. Often, the first thing to “pop” in your home is your roof, so that is why it is critical to protect all your home’s openings with hurricane shutters, panels, or plywood.

When you protect your openings, they can resist impacts from windborne debris like flying missiles, tree limbs, or roofing materials that can break windows and breach doors and allow pressurization to occur. Protecting your openings and keeping them intact can also prevent wind-driven rain and moisture from entering your home.

Tested and approved, permanently mounted hurricane shutters, as well as temporary panels made from metal or other materials, can all serve as adequate protection for home’s openings. If you do not have a shutter system for your home and a hurricane threat is imminent, you can use emergency panels made with ⅝ inch thick plywood.

What do I need to know?

  • Shutters or other opening protection is necessary for all of your home’s unprotected openings, including windows, entry doors, garage doors, skylights, sliding doors, gable end vents, etc. However, many of these elements, mainly garage and exterior doors, may already be wind- and impact-rated, so check your paperwork to evaluate your current protection level.
  • Installing impact-rated shutters over windows and doors is necessary to protect them from windborne debris impacts like flying limbs, construction materials, or even playground items. Protection prevents breakage that allows wind and water to enter and build inside your home.
  • Most shutters are designed to prevent windborne debris from breaking the windows; however, some opening protection choices, e.g., screens, will protect from pressurization but will not keep wind-driven rain out of the home.
  • If your underlying window or door system is weak or poorly anchored to the walls of your home, it can still fail behind a shutter. Failure could allow internal pressure to build and cause potential damage.
  • Even high-quality, permanently mounted shutters may not keep the doors and windows from failing due to wind pressure if they are installed incorrectly.
  • Shutter systems are less expensive than impact-rated glass. However, while the impact-rated glass is always in place, shutters must be deployed before a high-wind event. Moreover, the cost of new windows plus shutters may be close to the cost of impact-resistant windows alone.
  • Some shutters are easily deployed by automatic means, even from a distance. Others require placement in mounting trays or brackets.
  • Shutter systems, doors, and garage doors should carry proof of compliance identified on a sticker or label or imprinted into the product. Alternatively, the product paperwork should document compliance with all relevant testing standards.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s specifications when installing any opening protection system. Improper installation may cause a voided warranty or worse, a product failure that presents a threat to life and property.

Where do I start?

Begin by identifying all the openings on your home and evaluate any that are already wind- or impact-rated. Review shutter and opening protection options, and remember that you can mix and match different options so long as whatever you select is tested, approved, and certified to the relevant standards. For example, you may want to choose permanently mounted, motor-operated protection for the second story or hard to reach windows to avoid using ladders as a hurricane approaches.

Temporary, emergency plywood panels do not carry any testing or approval. However, you should still learn and plan for how to use them correctly if they are your only option.

Purchasing shutters

  • There are many excellent options when it comes to choosing the best type of shutters for your home. Selecting the right type depends on a variety of factors, including your budget, style, and ability to deploy the panels. Use this comparison table to find the right shutters for your home.
  • Ask your local building and zoning department for information about the wind rating and windborne debris protection requirements where you live.
  • Contact an established, local, licensed, bonded, and insured professional company to discuss the different types of shutter or opening protection options in your area.
  • Keep in mind that permanently-mounted, motor-operated, roll down type shutters can be closed quickly before a storm arrives. Most include a remote control option using either a smartphone app or website, so you may not need to be home to deploy them.
  • Make sure you understand how to operate any motor-driven shutters manually in a power outage, so you can get them open after the storm passes.
  • Reinforced screens or fabric opening protection may not protect from deflection (pushing) that can break windows or door glass. Often, the best use for these shutters is to protect openings, or lanai’s where they do not sit directly on top of glass panes or panels.

Temporary Emergency Board Plywood Panels

FLASH recommends that you install certified, tested, and code-approved, wind- and impact-resistant opening protection to achieve the highest level of protection from windborne debris. However, in an emergency where a temporary measure is the only option, properly cut and mounted ⅝” plywood can provide adequate protection for exposed openings.

Consider hiring a contractor or handyman to create the temporary plywood covers, and do so before hurricanes threaten. If you plan, your local home improvement store may also be willing to cut each panel to fit and help you pre-drill the holes.

Step One: Plan the Project

  1. Count and measure each window and door with glass, including entry doors, sliding glass doors, French doors, skylights, and garage doors. Evaluate roof and gable end vents or any opening that, if damaged, is large enough to allow wind inside your home.
  2. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim. Add eight inches to both the height and width to provide a four-inch overlap on all sides. When measuring a window with an extended sill, measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add four inches instead of eight.
  3. Standard plywood panels are generally 4 feet by 8 feet, so calculate how many you will need using your measurements. Be sure to purchase plywood that is ⅝” or thicker, exterior grade (CDX) instead of oriented strand board, or OSB.

Step Two: Assemble Your Tools and Hardware

  • You will need a circular saw, drill and drill bits, hammer and wrench, work gloves, and safety goggles for this project.
  • You will also need an assortment of hardware including bolts, wood or masonry anchors, nuts, and large washers. Different types of bolts will be needed for wood frame versus masonry homes.
  • Use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors for wood-frame homes. Use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors for masonry homes.

Step Three: Get Started

Having someone help you with this project will make things a lot easier. Form a team with neighbors and work together to make the project more manageable.

  1. First, drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2-inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner, and at 12-inch intervals around the panel.
  2. Next, hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes.
    • If the window sill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides.
    • If the window sill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides.
  3. Use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors for windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller that are installed on a wood-frame house. The lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 3/4 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2 1/2 inches.
  4. Use 1/4 inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors for windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a masonry house, The expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches.
  5. If a window or door is larger than a typical 4 x 8 sheet of plywood, you will need to join the panels with 2 x 4 bracing along the entire seam using this method:
    • Attach the 2 x 4’s to the outside of the plywood panel with ten gauge, 2 inches long galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches.
    • Use the widest side of the 2 x 4 to run the length of the entire seam.
  6. When you finish, use a permanent marker to label each panel with the name of the opening, so you will know where to install it when a storm is approaching.
  7. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.
  8. Store the panels, washers, and nuts together in a location away from the elements.

Why do they matter?

When wind forces enter your home, the pressure can build up until it eventually causes the weakest part of your home to rupture. Think of it like blowing up a balloon. Once the internal pressure reaches a certain level, it pops. That is why it is essential to protect all your home’s openings (windows, entry doors, garage doors, skylights, sliding doors, gable end vents, etc.) to keep the wind and pressure out.

When you protect your openings, they can resist impacts from hail or windborne debris like flying missiles, tree limbs, or roofing material that break windows and breach doors and allow pressurization to occur. Protecting your openings and keeping them intact can prevent wind-driven rain and moisture from entering your home as well.

One of the most effective opening protection options is to install impact-resistant windows.

What do I need to know?

  • Impact-resistant windows are made with special glass that will not fall out of the frame and let wind and water into the house.
  • Impact glass is similar to the laminated windshield in your car. It may crack and break, but it will not come apart easily.
  • Impact-resistant windows are always in place to protect the home, so you do not have to install or activate their protection.
  • Typically, impact-resistant windows are more expensive than standard windows, but the extra cost may not be prohibitive compared to mid-to upper-range windows. Further, the cost of impact-resistant windows may equal the cost combination of new standard windows plus a shuttering system.
  • Impact-resistant windows are tested and rated with large and small missile tests.
  • Large missile: A six feet, nine lb. 2 x 4 missile fired at 50 feet per second.
  • Small missile: Thirty pieces of roof gravel fired at 80 feet per second.
  • Compliant impact-resistant windows, shutters, and doors carry proof of compliance identified on a sticker or label or imprinted into the product. Additionally, the product paperwork should document compliance with all relevant testing standards.
  • Follow manufacturer specifications when installing impact-resistant windows. Improper installation may cause a voided warranty or, worse, a product failure that presents a threat to life and property. Learn more about installing windows here.
  • If impact-resistant windows are not an option for you, you can install shutters that can absorb the shock of windborne debris without allowing the window glass to break. Learn more about hurricane shutters options here.

Where do I start?

Replacing your windows

  • Check with your local building department for information about the window design pressure ratings and windborne debris protection requirements that windows should meet.
  • Impact-glass cannot be installed in older, existing window frames. It must be installed as a complete window system, including the frame as that is how it is tested.

More Resources:

  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition.
  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition.

Why do they matter?

Exterior window fire-rated shutters can protect windows and sliding glass doors in a wildfire. Reduce your home’s risk of fire by keeping the windows from breaking and preventing burning embers and firebrands from entering your home.

What do I need to know?

  • Solid metal shutters are preferred over wooden or plastic shutters because they are unlikely to ignite or melt.
  • Shutters can also protect against other extreme weather like high-wind events. If your home is in a windborne debris region, shutters can also serve as opening protection against wind-borne debris.
  • Temporary shutters only work if you have enough time to put them into place. Permanent shutters are easier and quicker to deploy.

Where do I start?

  • Protect windows and sliding glass doors with shutters, especially if your windows and doors are made with wood or vinyl.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
  • FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
  • FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

The garage door is usually the largest opening in your home. Protecting that opening is crucial to preventing a wildfire from breaching the building envelope and spreading to the interior.

What do I need to know?

  • Garage doors are typically made of wood, aluminum, or steel, and are insulated or non-insulated.
  • Unlike standard doors, garage doors are not normally tested for fire resistance.
  • During a wildfire, you may need to leave your home immediately. If the power is out, some garage door openers may not operate. Be sure that your garage door opener has a backup battery function.

Where do I start?

  • Replace wooden garage doors, particularly if they do not have a solid core.
  • Specify and install insulated, metal garage doors.
  • The general rule is the thicker the metal door the better. Choose a three-layer garage door with steel outer layers and insulation in the middle for the best fire resistance.
  • To avoid embers and hot gasses penetrating the garage, install weatherstripping that has been tested to UL Standard 10C around the entire garage door.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why do they matter?

In a wildfire, exterior doors experience the same types of exposure as exterior walls. However, exterior doors are usually much thinner and less fire-resistant than exterior walls and can burn much faster. It’s critical that the exterior doors remain intact to prevent a fire from entering your home. Consider purchasing and installing exterior doors made from fire-rated materials to better protect your home from the dangers of a wildfire.

What do I need to know?

  • Flames and hot gasses can ignite combustible materials in a door and door frame and penetrate openings between the door and frame and between the door and threshold (or floor if there is no threshold).
  • Embers can become lodged in openings between the door and frame and between the door and threshold (or floor if there is no threshold). Embers can also be blown through the openings into a home.
  • Flames, convective, or radiant heat and airborne firebrands can break glass in a door.

Where do I start?

  • Solid exterior doors are usually wood or metal.
  • Doors with a solid, noncombustible mineral core are considered fire-rated doors and are rated by Underwriters Laboratories (UL) according to how long they can resist fire (UL Standard 10C).
  • UL classifications for interior and exterior fire-rated doors and their frames range from 3-hour to 20‑minute ratings. Exterior fire-rated doors may be rated 1½ hour or 3/4 hour. Door fire rating is intended to equal three-fourths of the fire rating of the surrounding wall. For example, a 1½‑hour rated door is intended to be used in a 2-hour rated wall, and a 3/4-hour rated door is intended to be used in a 1-hour rated wall. However, you may use a door with a higher fire rating.
  • Install adjustable weatherstripping on the interior side of the door frame and an automatic door bottom or threshold weatherstripping to block embers and hot gasses penetrating the inside of the home between the door and the frame. The weatherstripping and door bottom should be tested to UL Standard 10C.
  • Replace door vision panels that are susceptible to damage from a wildfire with tempered glass with a low-e or proprietary reflective coating, if the door has sufficient fire resistance.
  • Replace wooden egress/ingress doors without a solid core. However, egress/ingress doors are often relatively fire-resistant compared to other building components and therefore are not usually a high priority for mitigation.
  • Weatherstripping material can melt or burn under very high heat or prolonged exposure to heat, lowering its ability to prevent embers and hot gasses from entering a home.
  • Do not shutter doors, as you may need a means of egress in an emergency.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why does it matter?

Windblown embers from a wildfire can travel up to two miles. They can enter through your fireplace chimney flue, land on ignitable surfaces, and start a structure fire inside your home. If you have a fireplace, you could cause a wildfire in your neighborhood if embers fly from your chimney and collect on vegetation or ignitable surfaces like wood decks or roofs. The good news is that you can help prevent embers from entering or escaping your chimney by installing a simple, affordable fix.

What do I need to know?

Installing a welded wire, or woven wire mesh spark arrestor with openings less than 1/4 inch wide will prevent embers from entering or leaving your chimney.

Where do I start?

Verify that you have working spark arrestors in all chimneys and stovepipes in your home. Have a professional inspection and cleaning at least once per year and twice per year if you reside in a high wildfire risk area.

More Resources:

Why do they matter?

You can prevent damage to your home and help protect your neighborhood by combining exterior fire sprinklers with proven wildfire mitigation steps such as fuel management. Exterior fire sprinklers help protect your home outside by wetting the potential ignition zones like your roof and deck. Interior residential fire sprinklers protect you from fires that start when flying wildfire embers enter an unprotected chimney. Exterior fire sprinklers help protect your home outside by wetting the potential ignition zones like your roof and deck.

What do I need to know?

Interior fire sprinklers

  • Interior sprinkler systems can detect a developing fire quickly. They activate automatically, extinguishing the fire before substantial damage occurs.
  • Interior systems include an automatic warning system to alert residents and emergency response services.
  • Today’s systems are zoned to limit water damage. If sprinklers deploy, they may cause some water damage, but the damage will likely be less severe than water damage from fire, fire suppression hoses, and smoke.
  • Interior fire sprinklers for single-family homes are smaller than traditional commercial or industrial fire sprinklers. You can purchase various styles and colors, which can be mounted flush with the ceiling or concealed behind covers. Consider installing sprinklers in unoccupied, enclosed spaces like attics for additional protection.
  • You can install interior sprinklers when building a new or existing home. Installing sprinklers during new construction adds approximately $1 to $2 per square foot. Retrofitting interior sprinklers in an existing home may cost $2 to $7 per square foot. You may save money by installing interior sprinklers when replacing or upgrading your roof.
  • Most homeowners insurance companies provide a significant annual discount for homes with interior sprinkler systems, so they may pay for themselves depending on how long you own your home.

Exterior Fire Sprinklers

  • Exterior fire sprinkler systems saturate a home’s exterior and can be installed during new construction or retrofitting.
  • Exterior sprinklers are typically installed on the roof along the ridge line, underneath the eaves, and along the soffits.
  • Exterior sprinklers can be activated automatically by heat sensors or manually before a wildfire evacuation. The systems include an automatic warning system to alert residents and emergency response services like interior fire sprinklers.
  • Exterior sprinklers can use water piping through the attic or roof or on the home’s exterior. You can install exterior sprinklers in combination with interior sprinklers; however, a standalone system with a pressurized holding tank may ensure an adequate water supply.
  • For exterior sprinklers in areas where freezing temperatures occur, use special provisions such as dry sprinklers to prevent water from freezing and rupturing the piping.
  • Polymer gels, Class A foam products, and other fire retardants provide thermal protection in addition to water. You can apply many of these products using an exterior sprinkler system. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to determine options such as the amount of time needed for the application.
  • High winds common during major wildfires can impair the effectiveness of an exterior sprinkler system.

Discover technical details:

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why do they matter?

Heat from a wildfire can fracture glass and cause it to fall out, potentially allowing flames and firebrands to enter your home. If an opening is breached and embers enter your home, fire can spread rapidly.

What do I need to know?

  • The glazing (glass) in windows is vulnerable to fracture due to heat from a wildfire, as well as breakage from windborne firebrands.
  • However, single or double pane tempered glass windows, doors, and skylights typically fracture at higher exposures, well above the radiant heat exposures capable of igniting the surrounding wood.
  • Window, sliding glass door, and skylight frames are made of metal, plastic, wood, or a combination of these materials. Plastic and wooden frames may burn or melt. The failure of the frame or sash may mean that all the glazing falls out.
  • Skylights on steep-sloped roofs can experience the same heat\temperature exposure as a window in a vertical wall.

Where do I start?

  • Use multi-pane windows or tempered safety glass.
  • Fireproof shutters can protect large windows and glass doors from radiant heat.
  • Consider the size and materials for windows: smaller panes hold up better than larger ones; double pane glass and tempered glass are more effective than single pane glass; and plastic skylights can melt.
  • Recommended glass products for homes in wildfire zones are laminated glass, tempered glass, glass with a low emissivity (low-e) coating, fiberglass-reinforced translucent glazing, and insulated glazing units (IGUs). Annealed glass, ceramic glass, and plastic glazing are not recommended.
  • An insulated glazing unit (IGU) consists of two or three panes of glass that are separated by a sealed air space.
  • There are many window and skylight frame products. Use metal or metal-clad wood, not wooden and plastic frames, to avoid window failure.

FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones provides the following guidance on recommended glass and types of glass to avoid:

Recommended glazing types

Laminated glass. Laminated glass provides resistance to windborne firebrands. If a firebrand strikes with enough momentum to break the glass, the plastic film in the core of the glass will keep the glazing in the frame, allowing the broken glass to continue to resist firebrand impacts, embers, and hot gases. If the plastic film in the core gets sufficiently hot, the pane will delaminate whether or not the glass has been broken. If laminated glass is specified, it should either be protected by shutters, as discussed below, or combined with tempered glass in an IGU.

Tempered glass. Tempered glass is more resistant to heat and flames than laminated glass or annealed glass. The resistance of tempered glass can be enhanced with a low-e coating or a proprietary reflective coating. Firebrands with sufficient momentum can break tempered glass. To avoid breakage, the glass can be protected by shutters. Another alternative is to specify and install an IGU with a laminated glass inner pane.

Low-emissivity (low-e) coating. Glass with a low-e coating provides a higher level of resistance to radiant heat than other types of glazing because the coating reflects radiant heat, reducing the probability that the heat will be able to enter the building. The coating should be on the inner surface of the exterior pane.

Proprietary fiberglass-reinforced translucent glazing. This product is available for skylights and walls. The skylight material has a Class A rating. See Fact Sheet #5, Roofs, for a discussion of this type of rating.

Insulated glazing unit. An IGU consists of two or three panes of glass that are separated by a sealed air space. Double-paned annealed units last about 10 minutes in a wildfire, twice as long as single-paned windows. In many cases, 10 minutes is long enough to provide protection from the fire. If the first pane fails, the second pane must still be penetrated. Laminated glass, tempered glass, and glass with a low-e coating can be combined in various ways into an IGU.

NOT Recommended

Annealed glass. Annealed glass (also known as common float glass) is commonly used in residential windows. Annealed glass is the most susceptible to wildfires of the various glass types and is not recommended for homes in wildfire zones unless protected by shutters.

Ceramic glass. This specialty glass is effective at resisting flames, but it transmits radiant heat readily. If ceramic glass is used for exterior glazing, heat that is high enough to cause ignition can be transmitted into the interior of the building. Ceramic glass is not recommended for homes in wildfire zones.

Plastic glazing. Acrylic and polycarbonate are often used in skylights and sometimes in windows. Because plastic glazing can melt during a wildfire, it is not recommended for homes in wildfire zones.

Discover technical details:

In fire-rated walls, use windows and sliding glass doors that are commensurate with the fire rating of the wall. For example, a 1½-hour rated window is intended to be used in a wall with a 2-hour rating, and a 3/4-hour rated door is intended to be used in a 1-hour rated wall. However, you can use a window with a higher fire rating. If a fire-rated wall is not specified, use an IGU with a metal or metal-clad wooden frame.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
  • FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
  • FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

Exterior walls can ignite from a wildfire’s radiant and convective heat. A fire on an exterior wall of your home can ‘bridge’ to more vulnerable areas such as eaves, soffits, vents, and windows. Protect your home by making your exterior walls fire resistant.

What do I need to know?

  • Cement, plaster, stucco, and concrete masonry such as stone, brick, or block resist heat and flames. These exterior components are known as the “cladding” of the building.
  • Some cladding materials will not burn, but they may lose their integrity when exposed to high temperatures and fall away or melt, allowing fire a direct path inside the home (ex: vinyl siding).
  • Windborne embers and firebrands may spread fire as well. Embers can become trapped in cracks in walls, window openings, and door trim boards and ignite combustible materials. Windborne firebrands can ignite wall coverings.
  • Exterior wall fire resistance is dependent mostly on the construction materials and the amount of nearby combustible material.

Where do I start?

New Construction

  • Choose exterior wall coverings that are noncombustible or fire-resistant and not susceptible to melting.
    • Recommended materials: Concrete, fiber-cement panels or siding, exterior fire-retardant-treated wood siding or panels, stucco, masonry, and metal.
      • These coverings should not ignite and fuel the fire.
      • Insulated concrete form (ICF) walls provide exceptional fire resistance as well as cast-in-place concrete or fully grouted concrete masonry units. If you choose ICF, use a stucco or masonry wall covering to protect the plastic foam forms.
    • Not recommended materials: not fire-retardant-treated wood siding, vinyl siding, metal siding susceptible to warping, and an exterior insulation finish system.
  • If fiber-cement or metal wall coverings are used, install one layer of 5/8-inch type X exterior gypsum board with taped joints underneath housewrap.
  • For vinyl siding (vinyl siding is not recommended), install one layer of 5/8-inch type X exterior gypsum board with taped joints underneath housewrap.
  • Use noncombustible or fire-resistant material such as exterior fire-retardant-treated wood or fiber-cement for trim boards around doors, windows, eaves, and corners.

Existing Buildings

  • Replace exterior wall coverings that are combustible, are susceptible to melting, or can readily transmit heat (ex: not fire-retardant-treated wood siding, vinyl siding, metal siding, and an exterior insulation finish system) with one of the recommended coverings (concrete, fiber-cement panels or siding, exterior fire-retardant-treated wood siding or panels, stucco, masonry, and metal).
  • Before you replace vinyl or metal siding, look for an underlying gypsum board substrate as that may mean you don’t need remedial work.
  • Check to see if you can keep the existing covering and cover it with 5/8-inch type X gypsum board and a new covering.
  • Maintain and remove combustible debris (such as vegetation and leaves) and firewood near the exterior walls regularly to reduce the potential of ignition during a wildfire.

More Resources: