Homeowners insurance protects your home and everything in it from accidental and unexpected incidents. If something catastrophic occurs, you will need to provide a list of everything that was in the house, and in some cases, even photographic evidence of valuable possessions.

Here’s how to create a home inventory that will make future insurance claims run smoothly:

1. Plan ahead

• Creating a home inventory may feel overwhelming, so break it into manageable chunks by capturing one location at a time.
• Think about each room and section of your home. Don’t forget your attic, basement, closets, garage, and any detached structures, such as tool sheds.
• Consider asking a family member to help document the items.

2. Pick a method to fit your needs

Visual Inventory

• A quick, simple way to create your inventory is by using your phone to take photos and videos of belongings, as well as entire rooms, closets, and drawer contents.
• As you record each space, narrate the description of items (“Brand X television purchased in 2009″). Take a photo of the serial number and label. If you have the receipt, take a photo of it too so that the records are stored together.
• Regardless of how you capture your inventory, remember to back up the videos and photos on the cloud.

Written Inventory

• If you prefer a written record, create a spreadsheet or list to catalog your belongings. Be sure to include columns for item descriptions, purchase dates, serial numbers, and any other relevant information.
• Take photos of your possessions and include them in your spreadsheet. You can also store them on a flash drive.
• Make copies of the spreadsheet and photo drive and store one copy in a fireproof safe or safety deposit box. Send additional copies to a trusted relative or friend to ensure you have access when a disaster strikes as you may not be able to get home right away.
• Scan and store all records electronically and back up on the cloud whenever possible.

3. Track Receipts

For more expensive items, store receipts electronically in a folder backed up to the cloud, on a flash drive, or in a written physical record along with other essential documents in a sealed waterproof bag.

If you are keeping a physical record, keep a copy in your “go bag” in case you have to evacuate.

4. Register goods

Take advantage of all product warranties by registering your new appliances and products. That way you can get helpful information about the product for an insurance claim.

5. Conduct annual checkups

Keep the name, telephone number, email, and web address of your insurance agent and/or company in a safe place, including on your computer or on your phone.

Contact your home insurance company or agent and request a policy review. Use the insurance checkup checklist to make sure you have the right financial resources to rebuild, recover, and bounce back from any disaster.

Update your home inventory regularly and read your insurance policy carefully to understand what is and isn’t covered (deductibles, general and specific limits, flood coverage, etc.).

If you must evacuate the area, notify your insurance company and verify what your insurance policy will cover for temporary lodging.

More Resources

For more information about insurance, check out A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters for an introduction to mitigation and policy benefits, limitations, and ways to save with credits and discounts.

FLASH and The Actuarial Foundation. If Disaster Strikes, Will You Be Covered? A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters.

While adequate insurance coverage is essential to disaster recovery, premiums can present a significant expense for homeowners. Premiums may increase over time with inflation, increased costs of construction, or other factors; however, it is possible to reduce potential costs.

In addition to the premium, you’ll need to account for the deductible — the amount of your claim that you pay before any payment is made by your insurance company. The larger your deductible is, the lower your premium will be. However, the larger the deductible, the more out-of-pocket payment you will be responsible for when a loss occurs.

Dollar deductibles: A dollar deductible is the dollar value the insured must pay before the insurance company will pay the remainder of the claim. For example, with a $500 standard deductible, the policyholder must pay the first $500 out of pocket. Some insurers offer policies with higher dollar deductibles for hurricane and earthquake damage. The higher the deductible for a given policy, the lower the premium. This is because the insured is bearing more of the risk.

Percentage deductibles: Percentage deductibles are calculated based on the home’s insured value. For example, if a house is insured for $100,000 and has a 2% deductible, the first $2,000 (or 2% of the insurance value of $100,000) of a claim must be paid by the policyholder. In many states, policyholders have the option of paying a higher premium if they prefer a traditional dollar deductible instead of a percentage deductible or if they prefer to have a lower percentage deductible. Percentage deductibles are sometimes mandatory. It is important to remember that the dollar value of a percentage deductible will change as the insured value changes.

Here are some options for saving money on your homeowners insurance.

Adjust the Deductible

A policy may have different types and amounts of deductibles based on the peril. Many insurers offer homeowners insurance policies with percentage deductibles for windstorm damage instead of the traditional dollar value deductibles used for other types of claims, such as fire and theft.

One of the more common percentage deductibles is the hurricane percentage deductible that applies to damage solely from hurricanes. For example, a policyholder may have a $1,000 deductible for fire losses, but a 2% deductible for hurricane losses, making the hurricane percentage deductible a significant part of the policy. An earthquake policy with an additional third deductible could differ from all other deductibles for the insured property, as well.

Qualify for Premium Discounts

Premium discounts vary widely by state and company. Secure price quotes from more than one source before choosing a policy, and use the list below to request potential discounts. This list is not exhaustive, so you may qualify for additional discounts.

• Discounts may be offered when purchasing home and auto insurance from the same insurer.
• Discounts are typically available for homes with burglar alarms, dead-bolt locks, fire sprinklers, and smoke alarms.
• Discounts are sometimes available for homes with water detection systems or other telematic devices that transmit home statuses.
• Discounts may be available for policyholders who are at least 55 years old and retired. Discounts are often available for certain professionals, alumni, and business groups.
• Long-time customers may be offered insurance discounts.
• Homes constructed in communities using current, model building codes will typically receive automatic credits on insurance premiums. The community’s Building Code Effectiveness Schedule (BCEGS) rating will indicate the favorability of the code. Lower BCEGS ratings of 1 to 4 are ideal.
• Homes built or retrofitted with disaster-resistant features for earthquakes, floods, hail, hurricanes, wildfires, or windstorms may be eligible for credits or discounts. Examples of qualifying features include braced cripple walls in seismic zones, elevated foundations for flood protection, hurricane shutters, impact-resistant roof coverings, sealed roof decks, superior roof connections, impact- and wind-resistant garage and entry doors, and more.

More Resources

• FLASH and The Actuarial Foundation. If Disaster Strikes Will You Be Covered? A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters.

How do you make sure that you can insure your home against disasters like hurricanes and floods? The location of a property can be a primary factor of insurance availability. Homes located in areas with greater exposure to losses due to a particular peril pay a higher cost for coverage than areas less exposed to that peril.

Insurance premiums for homes in the Midwest may reflect a higher cost due to tornado coverage. It may be difficult to find available or affordable coverage in the voluntary market for homes with greater exposure to wildfires, such as those in designated brush zones in California. It is essential to evaluate the insurability of a property before purchasing a new home.

Another factor that affects the availability of insurance is a pending event. For example, if a hurricane or a wildfire is approaching, insurance companies will often issue a temporary prohibition on issuing coverage, and no new coverage can be written in the area threatened by the peril until the threat passes.

Consider possible perils and how they might affect the availability of insurance when you’re shopping for a home or adding coverage to your current property.

Exposure to Earthquakes

Homeowners who live on or near major faults are vulnerable to earthquakes, and the soil type in certain areas may be more susceptible to earthquake damage. As a result, the closer a home is to a fault line, or if it sits on certain susceptible soil types, the more limited insurance options may be because of the risk of earthquake loss.

Recent earthquake activity can also determine earthquake insurance availability. As more earthquakes occur, insurance companies are likely to experience significant claims from earthquakes and may become financially distressed. These companies may find it difficult to provide coverage to the same volume of policyholders which can cause an overall availability problem. In certain areas, state associations are established to ensure insurance availability in constricted markets. These publicly run entities provide insurance coverage when availability and affordability problems arise.

Exposure to Hurricanes

Homes in coastal areas of the U.S. are more exposed to hurricanes than homes further inland. As a result, homeowners in these areas may have fewer choices for hurricane insurance. Frequent storm activity can constrict hurricane insurance availability and markets. As with earthquakes, publicly run entities typically fill gaps in the market and may provide insurance coverage when availability and affordability problems occur.

Home Features

Homeowners can encounter insurance availability problems due to the location of their home as described above. However, if a home has unusually hazardous features, insurance companies may be unwilling to provide coverage regardless of location.

Some of the features considered hazardous include inferior construction, a low-performing roof shape or roof covering, an unbolted frame, an unsecured chimney and/or water heater, or structurally weak features such as awnings or other exterior ornamentation. Additionally, older homes that do not meet current building codes and poorly maintained homes may be difficult to insure.

Ensuring the “Insurability” of Your Home

Homeowners can ensure the insurability of their home by keeping the property current to local and modern model building codes, by performing regular home maintenance, and by implementing loss mitigation measures. Homeowners may also evaluate their insurance options by staying informed of changes in the local insurance marketplace.

More Resources

• FLASH and The Actuarial Foundation. If Disaster Strikes Will You Be Covered? A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters.
• FLASH and Resilience Action Fund. Buyer’s Guide to Resilient Homes.

Guaranteeing you’re adequately insured and protected before a disaster is critical. You can start by checking your coverage options, property definitions, and the extent of coverage available. Options will vary by state, company, and product.

Here’s everything you need to know about your choices of home insurance for disasters.

The Four Coverage Categories

Insurance companies define four coverage categories for your home:

1. Dwelling: The structure of your home is considered a covered property. It is referred to in the policy as the “dwelling.”
2. Other structures: Structures separate from your home or linked by a fence, wire, or other forms of connection are referred to in the policy as “other structures.” Examples include tool sheds or detached garages.
3. Personal property: Your belongings and the contents of your home are referred to in the policy as “personal property.” It includes, but is not limited to, appliances, clothing, electronics, and furniture. Not all personal property is covered. Some items may have coverage limits or are covered under different forms of insurance. Examples include, but are not limited to, money, jewelry, and firearms.
4. Loss of use: When a dwelling becomes uninhabitable due to a covered disaster, the cost of additional living expenses are covered and defined as “loss of use.” Loss of use coverage reimburses living expenses, up to a stated limit, that the insured incurs to maintain a normal standard of living after a covered loss.

“Open Perils” and “Named Perils” Coverage

A peril, as referred to in an insurance policy, is a cause of damage that results in an insured loss of property, such as fire or theft. Coverage can be provided on an “all perils” (open perils) basis or a “named perils” basis. Named perils policies list what is covered by the policy and are generally more restrictive. All perils policies list what is excluded from coverage. A dwelling policy usually provides coverage for both the dwelling and its contents on a named perils basis. A homeowners policy usually provides coverage for the dwelling on an all perils basis and coverage for the contents on a named perils basis.

Package vs. Peril-Specific Coverage

A package policy provides coverage for multiple, but usually not all, perils. A homeowners policy is a package policy that provides coverage for fire, lightning, extended coverages, and personal liability. Extended coverage includes coverage for windstorm, hail, explosion, riot, civil commotion, aircraft, vehicles, smoke, vandalism, malicious mischief, theft, and breakage of glass. Some policies, such as earthquake or flood policies, provide coverage for specific perils that are often excluded in package policies. Fire and water damage from an earthquake may be covered by a standard homeowners policy.

It is important to consider what additional perils you may face and verify what is covered by your specific policy. Consult with your insurance company about perils you may face and what perils are covered by your policy.

Does My Policy Cover That?

1. Earthquakes: Most property insurance policies exclude coverage for losses resulting from earthquakes (although they often cover losses related to fires following earthquakes), so separate policies are typically required for earthquake coverage. Some states with risk of loss from earthquakes have government-mandated insurance plans that provide earthquake coverage to property owners who are unable to obtain insurance through the voluntary market.
2. Flood: Most property insurance policies exclude coverage for flood losses. You must purchase a flood policy to be covered for losses caused by a flood. (For a more comprehensive discussion of flood insurance, see Preparing for a Flood.)
3. Hail: Most property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from hail. Hail is a named peril. For coverage to apply under a “named perils” policy, hail must be listed as a covered peril. However, hail is generally included under the broader peril of windstorm. Windstorm coverage includes hail, hurricanes, tornadoes, and straight-line winds. There may be instances where coverages and deductibles apply to only one of these perils, for example, hurricanes, and not to all windstorms.
4. Hurricanes: Most property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from hurricanes under the windstorm coverage, although flood loss associated with hurricanes is excluded. (See Preparing for a Flood for more information.) Most states with risk of loss from hurricanes have government-mandated insurance plans that provide windstorm coverage to property owners who are unable to obtain insurance through the voluntary market.
5. Tornadoes: Most property insurance policies consider tornadoes a covered peril, although they do not cover losses resulting from the peril of flood. (See Preparing for a Flood for more information.) While tornadoes may not be specifically mentioned as a covered peril, tornado losses are one event covered under the windstorm peril.
6. Wildfires: All property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from fires. Depending on the level of exposure, you may need to consider a higher deductible to obtain coverage or keep it affordable. Most states have coverage available via a Fair Access to Insurance Requirements (FAIR) plan or a Joint Underwriting Association (JUA) if the voluntary market is not willing to provide coverage.

How Much Coverage Do I Need?

Depending on the type of policy, dwelling coverage options could include replacement cost coverage, actual cash value, special payment, functional replacement cost or market value coverage, or stated value.

The settlement of a loss will vary depending on the coverage you select when you purchase your policy.

1. Replacement cost coverage: Replacement cost is he current cost to replace the damaged property, with no reduction for depreciation of the damaged property. It is not the market value or the tax-assessed value of the property.
2. Actual cash value: Actual cash value is the cost to replace the damaged property reduced by an allowance for depreciation.
3. Special payment: Special payment is distributed before a damaged dwelling is repaired, rebuilt, or replaced.
4. Functional replacement cost or market value coverage: Functional replacement cost or market value (also known as repair cost) is the cost to repair or replace the damaged property with equivalent construction for similar use without deduction for depreciation (e.g., replacing a plaster wall with drywall). If it is a total loss and repairs are not made, the payment amount will be the market value of the home.
5. Stated value: Stated value coverage is the value of the policy, which is the maximum amount paid at the time of loss, even if the loss amount is larger than the value of the policy. A selected value is established by the insured, and this value is the limit of liability.

Personal Property Coverage Choices

Depending on the type of policy, personal property coverage options could be replacement cost coverage or actual cash coverage, as explained above.

What Is the Insurance-to-Value Ratio?

Insurance-to-value ratio is the relationship of the amount of insurance purchased to the replacement value of the property. It is important to have an accurate assessment of the replacement cost value of your home. If you don’t and then experience a loss, the cost to replace your home may be more than your insurance policy will provide and you would be responsible for covering the difference. Major catastrophes, such as earthquakes, hurricanes, and wildfires, often can create a demand surge for materials and labor, resulting in increased costs to replace damaged property. Consider the effect of such surges when establishing the appropriate replacement cost for your property.

Most property policies have a coinsurance penalty, which requires that your property be insured to at least 80% of the replacement cost or loss payments will be reduced by a proportion of the insured value to 80% of replacement value.

It is also important to realize that other coverage limits within your policy are set as a percentage of the dwelling coverage amount. For example, the limit of coverage for your personal property will usually be at 50% of the dwelling limit. Additional coverage is available via endorsement and is typically increased if you purchase replacement cost coverage for your contents.

Replacement Cost Coverage

In order to qualify for replacement cost coverage, you will most likely be required to insure your property to at least 80% of the replacement cost. If this requirement is met and you have a total loss, your insurance policy will cover the total cost of replacing your home. If the property is not insured to at least the 80% value, then the payment for partial losses may be reduced. For a total loss to be paid, the property should be insured at 100% of the replacement cost.

Additional Limits in the Case of a Total Loss

Many insurance companies offer an endorsement that provides full coverage to replace your property in the event of a total loss. Usually, the company requires that the property be insured to at least 100% of the replacement cost in order to qualify for this additional coverage. As long as this requirement is met, if you have a total loss and it costs more to replace than your limit (due to a misestimate or demand surge), the coverage under your insurance policy will be increased accordingly. The amount of the increase depends on the endorsement purchased and can range from 25% to 100%.

Additional and Optional Coverage

Additional coverage may be included in your policy. One example is a building code upgrade, which provides 10% coverage for upgrades required by the community to meet building codes when a home is being repaired or rebuilt as a result of a covered loss. Optional coverage for perils, such as earthquake insurance, may be available to purchase to supplement your policy.

More Resources

FLASH and The Actuarial Foundation. If Disaster Strikes, Will You Be Covered? A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters.

Once you and your family are prepared, consider extended family members or friends who are especially vulnerable during disasters. Pay special attention to folks with financial limitations and seniors.

You can help your broader community before, during, and after disasters by volunteering. Find an organization in your community, and participate in a class, training, or discussion. Affiliate with the organization before disaster strikes.

Local nonprofits, faith-based organizations, schools, and civic groups are all great places to begin your search. There are many ways to help your community, including delivering food to older adults or organizing your own community project. Consider any special skills you may be able to offer.

Get training in CPR and basic first aid, as well as other hazard-specific training. A financial contribution or gift to a recognized nonprofit disaster relief organization is always an effective way to support disaster recovery, and even small amounts can make a big difference.

Here are some options to get you started to support community disaster resilience:

• Join your local Community Emergency Response Team (CERT) program. CERT programs are typically sponsored, affiliated, or created in partnership with a local fire department, law enforcement agency, or emergency management agency. Get CERT trained in basic disaster response skills, such as fire safety, light search and rescue, team organization, and disaster medical operations.
• Find a volunteer opportunity with your state’s Voluntary Organizations Active in Disaster (VOAD). National VOAD is an association of organizations that mitigate and lessen the impact of disasters.
• Don’t forget the crucial role youth play in disaster preparedness. Get resources to integrate children and youth into family and community disaster preparedness.

When preparing for a disaster, ask yourself: “Where will I be safe?” Is it a room in your home? Is it a nearby school or other commercial building? Is it a family member’s or friend’s home outside of the disaster zone? Once you answer this question and discuss it with your family, you will have a shelter plan that increases survival, reduces stress, and enhances comfort.

Plan for Evacuation

The best ways to plan for evacuation vary based on the type of disaster and whether it is safe to shelter in your home. Local officials declare when a mandatory evacuation will occur, and sometimes they may suggest, but not require, evacuations.

Prepare to evacuate

• Determine alternate routes and several modes of transportation out of your area.
• Review at least two exit routes from your home or neighborhood to the designated meeting place for your family.
• Identify several places — in different directions from your home — to go in an emergency or during an evacuation.
• If you have a car, keep it in good working condition with a full gas tank and a portable disaster supply kit.
• Evacuate in one car per family to reduce congestion and delay.
• If you do not have a car, make transportation arrangements with family, friends, or your local government in case you must evacuate.
• Develop a household plan to maintain contact and reunite if separated.
• Don’t forget about your pets. If you cannot take them with you, identify a place that will accept pets, as most public shelters allow only service animals.
• Pack your bags. After a disaster, you may not be able to return to your home for some time. Make sure to bring your disaster supply kit, including essential documents and valuables.

Decide when and how to evacuate

• Evacuate if government officials instruct you to do so.
• Determine how you will evacuate. Evacuation may be on foot, depending on the type of disaster.
• Always prioritize evacuation routes identified by authorities.

For a flood

• If you’re told to evacuate due to flooding, do so immediately.
• Drive only on roadways that are not flooded. Six inches of moving water can knock you over, and one foot of moving water can sweep your vehicle away.

For a hurricane

• Prepare to leave if your home is not built to withstand a hurricane.
• Prepare to leave if you live in a storm surge evacuation zone.
• Find your evacuation zone and determine your route before a storm comes.
• Evacuate promptly according to your evacuation zone and follow the evacuation route(s).
• Evacuate immediately as you may not be able to evacuate if you delay too long.
• Identify a safe location to shelter after evacuation before a hurricane threatens.

For a tsunami

• If you are in a tsunami area, protect yourself from the earthquake first.
• Move to a safe place as high and as far inland as possible after the shaking ends if there are signs of a tsunami — like a quickly rising flood, a wall of water, sudden draining, a roar, or a warning siren.
• Crawl if you can reach better cover, but do not go through an area with more debris.

For a wildfire

• Know your community’s evacuation plans.
• Identify several potential exit routes and follow the evacuation routes.
• Evacuate if you’re told to do so. Wildfires may result in extremely hazardous driving conditions, making it difficult or impossible to escape.
• Use N95 masks to avoid breathing harmful particles.

Evacuating when there’s extra time

• Unplug electrical equipment, but do not unplug freezers and refrigerators unless there is a risk of flooding.
• Shut off water, gas, and electricity if your home is damaged or officials advise.
• Close and lock all doors and windows.
• Share evacuation plans with your out-of-state contact in your family disaster plan.
• Wear sturdy, protective shoes and clothing, such as long pants, long-sleeved shirts, and a hat.
• Check on others who may need transportation.
• Take actions depending on your location, the predictions for weather conditions, and guidance from local authorities.
• Take your pets with you, but know that most public shelters may only permit service animals. Plan ahead how to care for your pets.
• Be on the lookout for road hazards, and do not drive into flooded areas.

Plan to Find Shelter

Sheltering in place

Depending on the circumstances, you may need to stay in your current location by sheltering in place.

When deciding where to shelter, identify the safest place in the building based on the peril you’re facing. You may only need to shelter for a short time, such as during a tornado warning, or for a long time, such as during a winter storm.

• Stay in your shelter until authorities say it’s safe to leave.
• Take turns listening to radio broadcasts and maintain a 24-hour safety watch.
• During extended periods of sheltering, manage water and food supplies to ensure you and your family have the supplies and quantities you need.

During a tornado

• Take shelter in a safe room or certified shelter. If neither is available, take refuge in a basement or the lowest level interior room away from corners, windows, doors, and outside walls.
• Go to the lowest floor that won’t flood if flooding is possible.

During a flood

• Consider similar safe locations if you have not evacuated. See safety during a flood and hurricane for more information.

During an earthquake

• Drop where you are, cover, and hold on. See safety during an earthquake for more information.

During a tsunami

• Follow the steps above for evacuating during a tsunami. See safety during a tsunami for more information.

During a winter storm

• Locate an indoor heated space to shelter in.
• Plan for a potential power outage by locating your nearest shelter.
• Follow safety precautions like monitoring carbon monoxide levels. See safety during a winter storm for more information.

During an extreme heat event

• Take shelter in an indoor, air-conditioned space.
• Plan for a potential power outage by locating your nearest shelter.
• Follow safety precautions like monitoring carbon monoxide levels.

During a hail storm

• Stay indoors until the storm has passed, and stay away from skylights, windows, and doors. Don’t go outside to protect your property.

During lightning

• If thunder roars, go indoors! Once inside, avoid doors and windows.
• If you are outdoors, avoid water, high ground, open spaces, and metal objects.
• Shelter in a large building or vehicle with closed windows. Do not lean on the doors.
• If you cannot get indoors, crouch down with your feet together and place your hands over your ears to minimize hearing damage from the thunder. Stay at least 15 feet away from other people. See safety during lightning for more safety tips during lightning.

Evacuating to a public disaster shelter

• Take your disaster supply kit with the supplies you need.
• Cooperate with shelter officials, and remember that alcoholic beverages and weapons are prohibited.

Install a Safe Room or Storm Shelter

The best safety protection in high winds and tornadoes is a safe room or storm shelter. A safe room that meets FEMA P-320 or FEMA P-361 guidance or a storm shelter that meets the ICC 500 standard provides near-absolute life safety protection.

Evacuation and Shelter for People with Disabilities

As one of the more vulnerable groups, people with disabilities need special consideration before disaster strikes. If you, your family, friends, or neighbors have access or functional needs, planning now will enhance safety and comfort when it matters the most.

Drugstores, medical facilities and accessible shelters may not be operational or reachable during disasters, so take steps to ensure you have necessary supplies and accommodations.

For all people with disabilities

• Establish a personal support network of family, friends, and neighbors who can help during an emergency and get you to a safe place. Maintain a contact list in your disaster kit, and make sure your network knows where you store your emergency supplies. Share a key to your home with someone in your network.
• Maintain a supply of all the items that you will need for 3–5 days. First responders and emergency personnel may not be able to reach you immediately after a disaster.
• Use the Considerations for People with Disabilities During a Power Outage checklist to ensure you have the things you need in the event of a power outage.
• Stock up on extra prescription drugs, over-the-counter medicines, and medical supplies. If you have allergies or other chemical or environmental sensitivities, keep cleaning supplies, masks, and other necessary items on hand.
• Consult with your doctors and assistance organizations to develop a backup plan so you have uninterrupted services.
• Keep extra wheelchair batteries, oxygen, catheters, medication, food for guide or hearing-ear dogs, etc.
• Maintain a current list of the type and serial numbers of all medical devices.
• Clearly label your assistive devices with your name and contact information.
• Install specialty fire safety devices in the home, such as fire extinguishers and smoke alarms with a vibrating pad or flashing light. Consider installing a strobe light alarm outside of your home to alert neighbors. Test alarms and extinguishers regularly. Replace smoke alarm batteries every six months.
• If you live in an apartment building, ask the management to mark all available, accessible exits.
• Keep a flashlight, whistle or bell handy to signal your location to others.

For those with a communication disability

• Include documentation of your contact information and preferred method of communication in your emergency kit.
• If you use assistive technologies, plan how you will evacuate with the devices or replace equipment if lost or destroyed. Be sure to save your model and device information.

For those who are deaf or hard of hearing

• Obtain extra batteries and a spare charger for hearing aids, cochlear implants and other personal assistive listening devices. Create a record of where you got your hearing aids and the batteries they need.
• If you cannot use a TV, radio or computer, plan for how to receive emergency information.
• Secure and use a specialty NOAA Weather Radio for Deaf and Hard of Hearing with an adaptive weather alert system.
• Determine if your mobile phone includes alerting capabilities that signal an emergency using lights and vibrations.
• Keep an analog amplified or captioned telephone in your emergency supply kit.

For those with a mobility disability

• If you use a power wheelchair, store a lightweight manual wheelchair for backup. Know your wheelchair’s weight and size, and if it is collapsible. If your wheelchair or scooter tires are not puncture-proof, keep a patch kit or sealant and an extra inner tube for flat tires.
• Show others how to operate your wheelchair.
• Purchase an extra battery for a power wheelchair or other battery-operated medical or assistive technology devices. Keep extra batteries on a trickle charger at all times. Note that agencies, service organizations or local charitable groups may be able to help you purchase a spare battery.
• Keep an extra mobility device such as a cane or walker. If you use a seat cushion, take it with you if you evacuate. Have an escape chair if you live or work in a high-rise building.

For those with a visual disability

• Have a talking, Braille or large-print timepiece with extra batteries. Keep model and background information for any assistive technology devices you use (white canes, CCTV, text-to-speech software, etc.).
• Have a backup plan to communicate. Consider using laminated cards with phrases, pictures or pictograms. Keep Braille/text communication cards for two-way communication.

Evacuation for people with disabilities

• Identify accessible transportation methods for evacuation or getting to a medical clinic. Work with local services, public transportation or paratransit to identify all options.
• Plan how you will contact emergency personnel/first responders regarding your evacuation needs.
• Contact your local emergency management agency and register for lists that identify people with access and functional needs that require evacuation assistance.
• Always carry emergency health information and emergency contacts. Wear a medical alert tag or bracelet. Store important information on a flash drive or mobile device. Make hard copies for easy transport in the event of an evacuation. Have your medical professionals update your medical plan every time they make changes in your treatment or care.
• If you need life-sustaining treatment, such as dialysis, identify more than one potential facility.
• Medical shelters are only appropriate for those with acute health care needs who would otherwise be hospitalized. Contact your emergency management office to assess how local shelters can provide for those with access and functional needs.

Plan for children with disabilities

• Make plans for children with access and functional needs and others who may have challenges in unfamiliar or chaotic environments (e.g., those with PTSD).
• Consider handheld electronic devices with movies and games (with extra batteries or chargers and headphones), sheets and twine or a small pop-up tent, and snacks and toys.

Plan for financial stability

• If you receive Social Security or other regular benefits, consider switching to electronic payments as disasters can interrupt mail service for days or weeks. Your options may include a direct deposit to your bank account or the Direct Express® prepaid debit card. Get more information on going paperless with your benefits.

More Resources

• FEMA Ready. Evacuation.
• FEMA Ready. Shelter. www.ready.gov/shelter
• FEMA Ready. Tsunamis.
• FEMA Ready. Wildfires.
• FEMA Ready. Individuals with Disabilities.
• FLASH. #HurricaneStrong.
• FLASH. #TornadoStrong.

Pets are cherished family members, so it’s essential to plan for their safety and comfort as a part of your comprehensive family disaster plan.

Take inventory of your supplies and review all records periodically so your pet can be safe and cared for during any disaster.

Consider these options for your pet’s location during a disaster.

• Take your pet with you to a friend’s or family member’s house or a hotel outside the threat zone. Make arrangements ahead of time to avoid last-minute surprises and confusion.
• Keep your pet with you in a secure, storm-prepared shelter location. Find evacuation shelters that accept pets ahead of time. While many shelters will accept pets, some can only accommodate service animals or certain types of pets like dogs.
• Leave your pet with a friend in a safe zone or make boarding arrangements with a veterinary clinic or kennel. Talk to the kennel about advance registration and requirements like shots.
• Create a safe, quiet, and comfortable space in your home for your pet. Never leave them alone or behind.

Keep your pet prepared at all times.

• Portable carrier (large enough for the pet to stand up and turn around)
• Extra leash, collar and ID tag
• Pet food: At least 2 weeks of dry food in a water-tight container or canned food (include a manual can opener)
• Water: At least 2 weeks of clean water (large dogs need 1 gallon per day)
• Up-to-date health and immunization records
• Medications (flea and tick preventative, a two-month supply of heartworm prevention medication, all prescription medications)
• Litter/newspapers for clean-up
• Toys and treats
• Towels
• First aid supplies
• A recent photo of you with your pet

How to prepare large animals for a disaster

Prepare your large animals such as horses, cattle, sheep, goats, or pigs before a disaster using the following tips from FEMA:

• Ensure all animals have some form of identification.
• Evacuate animals whenever possible. Map out primary and secondary routes in advance.
• Make vehicles and trailers needed for transporting and supporting each type of animal available. Make sure experienced handlers and drivers are also available.
• Ensure destinations have food, water, veterinary care, and handling equipment.
• If evacuation is not possible, animal owners must decide whether to move large animals to shelter or turn them outside.

Take the extra time to observe livestock, looking for early signs of disease and injury. Severe cold-weather injuries or death primarily occur in the very young or in animals that are already debilitated.

Animals suffering from frostbite don’t exhibit pain. It may be up to two weeks before the injury becomes evident as the damaged tissue starts to slough away. At that point, treat the injury like an open wound, and consult a veterinarian.

Make sure your livestock has the following to help prevent cold-weather problems:

• Plenty of dry bedding to insulate vulnerable udders, genitals, and legs from the frozen ground and frigid winds.
• Windbreaks to keep animals safe from frigid conditions.
• Plenty of food and water

More Resources

• Ready. Pets and Animals.

You can enhance your safety and comfort during and after an emergency or disaster by planning to be self-sufficient. By creating an emergency supply kit, you’ll be able to meet your basic needs for food, water, cash, medicines, and other supplies that will last for at least 72 hours.

Once you build and maintain your disaster supply kit, you have a way to meet your family’s basic needs during a difficult time. This also helps your community by allowing emergency officials and first responders to focus on those who cannot help themselves. Make sure to make your disaster preparedness plan and practice with your family.

Plan for two scenarios when building your disaster supply kit: remaining in your home or evacuating to a safer location.

Store items in airtight plastic bags, and use 1-2 portable containers for your whole kit.

Inventory on-hand supplies, and purchase any additional items. Building and maintaining your kit over time can help offset the cost.

Basic Disaster Supply Checklist

• Cash: Banks and ATMs may not be open or available for extended periods
• Water: At least one gallon per person per day for 3-7 days for drinking and sanitation
• Food: Enough for 3-7 days, including non-perishable packaged or canned food and juices, food for infants and the elderly, snack food, manual can opener, vitamins, etc.
• Meal supplies: Paper plates, paper cups, paper towels, and plastic utensils
• Radio: Battery-powered radio and NOAA Weather Radio with extra batteries
• Sleep: Sleeping bag, blankets, and pillows
• Clothing: Seasonal clothes, rain/snow gear, and sturdy shoes
• First-aid kit with medicines and prescription drugs
• Toiletries: Hygiene items, moisture wipes, and sanitizer
• Flashlight and batteries
• Car and house keys
• Toys, books, and games
• Fire extinguisher
• Whistle to signal for help
• Dust mask to filter contaminated air
• Wrench or pliers to turn off gas or utilities
• Maps
• Cell phone with chargers and a backup battery
• Paper and pencils
• Household chlorine bleach and medicine dropper to disinfect water
• Glasses, contacts, and contact lens solution
• Infant formula, bottles, diapers, wipes, and diaper cream
• One week or longer supply of prescription medicines with a list of all medications, dosage, and any allergies
• Copies of medical insurance and Medicare identification cards
• In case of emergency (ICE) contact information for doctors, relatives, or friends to be notified if you are injured

See more about preparing emergency supply kits specifically for people with disabilities.

Pet Supplies Checklist

• Pet food: At least a two-week supply of dry food in a water-tight container or canned food (include a manual can opener)
• Water: At least a two-week supply of clean water; large dogs need one gallon per day
• Portable carrier large enough for the pet to stand up, turn around, and lie down
• Extra leash and collar or harness with an identification and rabies tag
• Up-to-date health and immunization records
• Two-month supply of medications like flea, tick and heartworm prevention
• Toys, treats, and bedding (familiar items can help reduce stress for your pet)
• Registration information, adoption papers, and vaccination documents: Discuss microchipping and enrolling your pet in a recovery database with your veterinarian.
• First-aid kit, including cotton bandage rolls, bandage tape and scissors, antibiotic ointment, flea and tick prevention, gloves, isopropyl alcohol, saline solution, and a pet first aid reference book
• Pet litter and litter box if appropriate, newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags, and household chlorine bleach
• Picture of you with your pet to document ownership if you become separated: Add a note specifying your pet’s species, breed, age, sex, color, and distinguishing characteristics

Keep your disaster kit fresh

Remember to replace your stored food and water every six months. Dedicate one area of your cabinet or pantry to non-perishable food like peanut butter and jelly that you continuously replace.

• Keep canned food in a cool, dry place.
• Store boxed food in tightly closed plastic or metal containers.
• Keep a supply of fresh batteries.
• Use items and continually replace them to avoid expiration and waste.
• Review your needs and update your kit annually.

Water supply is a top priority

Make your emergency water supply a top priority. Your requirements will vary depending on age, physical condition, activity, diet, and climate.

An active person needs at least two quarts of drinking water daily, so store at least one gallon of water per person per day for a minimum of three days. This amount will provide for drinking, cooking, and sanitary needs.

Children, nursing mothers, and people with health issues will need more. Keep in mind that high temperatures can double the required water amount.

Store your water in thoroughly washed plastic, fiberglass, or enamel-lined containers. Don’t use containers that can break (like glass bottles) and never use a container that has held toxic substances. Plastic containers like soda bottles work, and camping stores offer various containers.

Seal your water containers tightly and label and store them in a cool, dark place. Put a date on each container, and change stored water every six months.

Identify and gather important documents

Collect your household documents and create a photographic inventory of your household contents and valuables for an efficient insurance claims process.

• Insurance papers
• Medical records
• Bank account numbers
• Social Security cards
• Deeds or mortgages
• Birth and marriage certificates
• Stocks and bonds
• Recent tax returns
• Wills and estate papers
• Emergency or hotline contact information
• Valuables and priceless personal items

Secure your documents in a safe place. Store paper copies in a fireproof and waterproof box or safe at home, in a bank safe deposit box, or with a trusted friend or relative. Keep electronic copies of important documents in a password-protected encrypted format on a removable flash or external hard drive in your fireproof and waterproof box or safe, or use a secure cloud-based service.

Store your disaster supply kit, documentation, and valuables in waterproof containers away from basements or other home locations that may flood.

Store multiple kits in multiple locations

A disaster can occur when you are at home, work, or traveling. Prepare a kit for your home, work, and all vehicles.

• Home: Have this kit in one location that all family members know and can access.
• Work: Prepare to shelter at work for at least 24 hours with food, water, and other needed items like medicines and comfortable walking shoes stored in a portable container.
• Vehicle: Keep an emergency supply kit in your car.

More Resources

• Ready. Build A Kit.
• Ready. Individuals with Disabilities.
• FEMA. Safeguard Critical Documents and Valuables.

Quickly changing weather and environmental conditions demand careful attention. You can stay safe by staying aware of the latest disaster events in your community in a variety of ways, including those that operate without electric power.

No matter how you receive your updates and alerts, make sure you choose more than one method so you have a backup plan during any emergency.

What You Can Do Right Now

Purchase a NOAA Weather Radio receiver with backup battery power. NOAA Weather Radio from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration is a nationwide, 24-hour radio station network that broadcasts continuous weather information like forecasts, watches, warnings and all-hazard updates, such as earthquakes or environmental events like chemical releases or oil spills.

NOAA Weather Radio is commercial-free but requires a specific receiver or scanner that is widely available for as little as $30. You may need an external antenna if you are more than 30 miles from the nearest transmitter.

The nationwide Emergency Alert System can deliver wireless emergency alerts to your devices. In addition to NOAA Weather Radio and the Emergency Alert System, you also may be covered by a community-level emergency alerting system.

If your government alerting system uses landline telephones, but you do not have one, you may still be able to connect your mobile devices to Enhanced Telephone Notification systems like Reverse 911© and text messages. Strobe lights, pagers, computers, and text printers can be connected for the visually and hearing-impaired, as well.

Download your state or local emergency management agency app and the FEMA app. Enable text message alerts (message and data rates will apply).

Look for updates from official local government and emergency management agencies and utility providers on their websites and social media to stay current before, during, and after a disaster.

Sign up for listservs and emergency alerts from your workplace, school, houses of worship, or other community organizations that provide notifications during an emergency.

What to Do During Extreme Weather

Monitor weather forecasts frequently using apps, devices, government alerting services, radio/television news, and social media. Always keep your cell phone charged and activate location settings that allow weather-related apps to follow and alert you no matter where you go.

No matter how you plan to receive emergency alerts, listen to broadcasts and check online every 30 minutes during emergencies to stay current on the latest updates and essential instructions.

More Resources

• FEMA Ready. Get Tech Ready.
• FEMA Ready. Emergency Alerts.
• FEMA Ready. Be Smart. Take Part. Know Your Alerts and Warnings.
• NOAA. NOAA Weather Radio All Hazards.

Why does it matter?

Having a source of water at your home provides you and firefighters a way to help protect your home if it’s threatened by a wildfire or already on fire. In some areas, water may not be readily accessible, so having a source of stored water can be critical.

What do I need to know?

Identify a means of on-site water, such as those listed below:

• Community water/hydrant system
• Drafting site on a lake
• Swimming pool
• Cooperative emergency storage tank with neighbors

Where do I start?

• Determine where and how water can be accessed or stored on your property, and how water can be collected (ex: rainwater catch system, on-site storage tanks)
• Plan for how water will be pumped or delivered, planning for delivery without electricity
• Consider a gasoline-powered portable pump to deliver the water
• Mark your water supply, so it is readily visible for firefighters if you are not present

Why does it matter?

Your home is at heightened risk for wildfires if your landscape includes combustible vegetation and building materials. Grasses, yard debris, trees, shrubs, vegetation that burn easily, or features like wooden decks create a path for fire to reach your property and ignite your home. However, creating a defensible space through landscaping design can slow down or stop a wildfire by distancing your home from active wildfires’ embers, flames, and radiant heat.

What do I need to know?

The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) Firewise program defines a Home Ignition Zone as an area extending up to 200 feet from a home. The goal for this area is to limit the amount of flammable vegetation and materials surrounding the house and to increase the moisture content of the remaining vegetation.

Where do I start?

Start planning your wildfire-resistant landscape by understanding your Home Ignition Zone and creating a defensible space with up to four subzones. Zone One is closest to your home; Zones Two to Four move further away.

Identify fire-resistant vegetation options with high water content. Some less flammable plants species include dogwood, viburnum, redbud, sycamore, magnolia, beautyberry, oak, red maple, wild azalea, sweetgum, coontie, winged elm, black cherry, persimmon, wild plum, sugarberry, Florida soapberry, fringe tree, ferns, wild olive, blue beech, hophornbeam, and sparkleberry. Consult your local extension service to identify the best wildfire-resistant tree and plan choices for your area.

Zone One – Your Home and the First Five Feet Around It

The latest Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety research suggests you designate Zone One to include your house and the first five feet around it. Follow these steps outlined by the NFPA.

• Clean roofs and gutters of dead leaves, debris, and pine needles that could catch embers.
• Replace or repair any loose or missing shingles or roof tiles to prevent ember penetration.
• Reduce embers that could pass through vents in the eaves by installing 1/8 inch metal mesh screening.
• Clean debris from exterior attic vents and install 1/8 inch metal mesh screening to reduce embers.
• Repair or replace damaged or loose window screens and any broken windows Screen or box-in areas below patios and decks with wire mesh to prevent debris and combustible materials from accumulating.
• Move any flammable material away from wall exteriors – mulch, flammable plants, leaves and needles, firewood piles – anything that can burn. Remove anything stored underneath decks or porches.

Zone Two – Five to 30′ Away from Your Home

Follow these NFPA recommendations to create firebreaks and help interrupt fire movement toward your home.

• Clear vegetation from under large stationary propane tanks.
• Create fuel breaks with driveways, walkways/paths, patios, and decks.
• Keep lawns and native grasses mowed to a height of four inches.
• Remove ladder fuels (vegetation under trees) so a surface fire cannot reach the crowns. Prune trees up to six to ten feet from the ground; for shorter trees, do not exceed 1/3 of the overall tree height.
• Space trees to have a minimum of eighteen feet between crowns, with the distance increasing with the slope percentage.
• Place trees to ensure the mature canopy is no closer than ten feet to the edge of the structure.
• Limit trees and shrubs in this zone to small clusters of a few each to break up the continuity of the vegetation across the landscape.

Zone Three – Thirty to 100 Feet from Your Home, Up to 200 Feet

The following NFPA steps are not intended to eliminate fire but to interrupt the fire path, keep flames smaller, and prevent flames from leaving the ground and climbing so-called ladder fuels to ignite tree crowns.

• Dispose of heavy accumulations of ground litter/debris.
• Remove dead plant and tree material. Contact a professional or your local government extension office to evaluate or remove diseased trees, trees with mushrooms growing from the trunks, or trees with cracked trunks.
• Remove small conifers growing between mature trees.
• Remove vegetation adjacent to storage sheds or other outbuildings within this area.
• Ensure trees 30 to 60 feet from your home have at least 12 feet between canopy tops.
• Ensure trees 60 to 100 feet from your home have at least 6 feet between the canopy tops.

Note that the crown spacing needed to reduce or prevent crown fire potential may be significantly greater due to slope, tree species, or other location-specific conditions. Check with your local forestry professional to determine the right choices for your property.

Landscaping and Maintenance Reminders

• Maintain your irrigation system.
• Move your lawn regularly, and promptly dispose of cuttings and debris per local regulations.
• Keep any firewood at least 50 feet away from your house. 
• Properly store and use flammable liquids away from the house.
• Refuel garden equipment carefully, and maintain equipment regularly.
• Discard smoking materials with care.
• Ensure all water sources (See Water Supply article), such as fire hydrants, ponds, swimming pools, and wells, are accessible to emergency personnel.
• Maintain a garden hose long enough to reach all areas of your house. Leave it connected for firefighters if you have to evacuate.

More Resources

• NFPA. Firewise USA. NFPA – Preparing homes for wildfire.
• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
• FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
•  FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

Attachments to your home, such as decks, porches, fences or sheds, can act as fuses or fuel bridges for a wildfire, particularly if constructed from flammable materials.  

What do I need to know?

• Embers, firebrands, and hot gasses can become lodged or trapped at the following places: under decks and other attached structures, where the structures attach to the home, in between board decking, against exterior walls, and at railing edges.
• Consider attachments of your home part of your home. Attachments include any additional structures attached such as room pushouts, bay windows, decks, porches, carports, and fences. These features are often very vulnerable to convective exposures.

Where do I start?

Fences and walls

• Build fences and walls with noncombustible materials, and note that the shape, size, and materials used provide different levels of protection or risk in a wildfire. At the least, ensure that any combustible components are at least 10 feet from the building to prevent heat and flames from igniting the building.
• Typical fencing and wall materials are wood, plastic, composite, metal, wire, concrete, stone, and masonry. Wood is the most combustible, and concrete, stone, and masonry are noncombustible. Softwoods and preservative treated pine are combustible, while dense hardwoods such as red oak and others are more fire resistant. Plastic fences provide better fire resistance, durability, and often strength than wooden fences, but they can melt. Metal fences are more fire-resistant than plastic fences; however, under certain conditions, a metal fence can also act as a horizontal ladder fuel. Concrete, stone, or masonry are the most effective at minimizing the potential for damage to a building from a wildfire.
• Avoid fences with gaps because airborne firebrands can become trapped in the gaps and ignite the fence.
• The common wooden post-and-board fence can become fuel for a wildfire, especially old, weather-beaten fences, and collect embers and firebrands, acting as a horizontal ladder for fuel. If you attach an all-wood fence to your home, use masonry or metal as a protective barrier between the fence and the house. 
• Maintain your fence or wall, and clear any combustible debris near your fence or wall regularly. Also consider the type of landscape vegetation used, as unmanaged landscape vegetation can increase the likelihood that a fence will ignite. See Landscaping article for more information.
• If you build a trellis, use non-flammable metal and cover it with high moisture, fire-resistant vegetation. 

Decks

• Decks are often built at the top of a slope, which is at a high risk of ignition. Consider building and deck orientation to reduce the risk of exposure to a wildfire.
• Decks built with dimensioned lumber are combustible and can ignite quickly.
• Prevent combustible materials and debris from gathering beneath a patio deck or elevated porches; screen underneath or box in areas below the deck or porch with wire mesh no larger than 1/8 of an inch.
• Surround any attached structure with noncombustible material such as gravel, brick, or concrete pavers to prevent vegetative growth and reduce fuel in a wildfire.
• For decking and stair treads, use exterior fire-retardant-treated wood, minimum 3-inch nominal thickness, or brick or concrete pavers and a suitable drainage mat over wood decking or metal grates, or light, poured concrete.
• For existing decks, replace combustible materials with noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.
• Replace dimensional timber railings with fire-resistant materials such as metal, tempered glass, cables, or 3-inch nominal thickness fire-retardant-treated wood.
• Construct deck skirting using fire-resistant or noncombustible material such as fiber-cement boards, and/or construct a patio on the ground around the deck, stairs, or ramp.
• When there is no skirting, install a soffit at the underside of balconies, decks, stair landings, or ramps.
• Maintain decks and other attached structures by replacing deteriorated components before they lose their fire-resistance.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
• FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

Exterior window fire-rated shutters can protect windows and sliding glass doors in a wildfire. Reduce your home’s risk of fire by keeping the windows from breaking and preventing burning embers and firebrands from entering your home.

What do I need to know?

• Solid metal shutters are preferred over wooden or plastic shutters because they are unlikely to ignite or melt.
• Shutters can also protect against other extreme weather like high-wind events. If your home is in a windborne debris region, shutters can also serve as opening protection against wind-borne debris.
• Temporary shutters only work if you have enough time to put them into place. Permanent shutters are easier and quicker to deploy.

Where do I start?

• Protect windows and sliding glass doors with shutters, especially if your windows and doors are made with wood or vinyl.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
• FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
• FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

The garage door is usually the largest opening in your home. Protecting that opening is crucial to preventing a wildfire from breaching the building envelope and spreading to the interior.

What do I need to know?

• Garage doors are typically made of wood, aluminum, or steel, and are insulated or non-insulated.
• Unlike standard doors, garage doors are not normally tested for fire resistance.
• During a wildfire, you may need to leave your home immediately. If the power is out, some garage door openers may not operate. Be sure that your garage door opener has a backup battery function.

Where do I start?

• Replace wooden garage doors, particularly if they do not have a solid core.
• Specify and install insulated, metal garage doors.
• The general rule is the thicker the metal door the better. Choose a three-layer garage door with steel outer layers and insulation in the middle for the best fire resistance.
• To avoid embers and hot gasses penetrating the garage, install weatherstripping that has been tested to UL Standard 10C around the entire garage door.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why do they matter?

In a wildfire, exterior doors experience the same types of exposure as exterior walls. However, exterior doors are usually much thinner and less fire-resistant than exterior walls and can burn much faster. It’s critical that the exterior doors remain intact to prevent a fire from entering your home. Consider purchasing and installing exterior doors made from fire-rated materials to better protect your home from the dangers of a wildfire.

What do I need to know?

• Flames and hot gasses can ignite combustible materials in a door and door frame and penetrate openings between the door and frame and between the door and threshold (or floor if there is no threshold).
• Embers can become lodged in openings between the door and frame and between the door and threshold (or floor if there is no threshold). Embers can also be blown through the openings into a home.
• Flames, convective, or radiant heat and airborne firebrands can break glass in a door.

Where do I start?

• Solid exterior doors are usually wood or metal.
• Doors with a solid, noncombustible mineral core are considered fire-rated doors and are rated by Underwriters Laboratories (UL) according to how long they can resist fire (UL Standard 10C).
• UL classifications for interior and exterior fire-rated doors and their frames range from 3-hour to 20‑minute ratings. Exterior fire-rated doors may be rated 1½ hour or 3/4 hour. Door fire rating is intended to equal three-fourths of the fire rating of the surrounding wall. For example, a 1½‑hour rated door is intended to be used in a 2-hour rated wall, and a 3/4-hour rated door is intended to be used in a 1-hour rated wall. However, you may use a door with a higher fire rating.
• Install adjustable weatherstripping on the interior side of the door frame and an automatic door bottom or threshold weatherstripping to block embers and hot gasses penetrating the inside of the home between the door and the frame. The weatherstripping and door bottom should be tested to UL Standard 10C.
• Replace door vision panels that are susceptible to damage from a wildfire with tempered glass with a low-e or proprietary reflective coating, if the door has sufficient fire resistance.
• Replace wooden egress/ingress doors without a solid core. However, egress/ingress doors are often relatively fire-resistant compared to other building components and therefore are not usually a high priority for mitigation.
• Weatherstripping material can melt or burn under very high heat or prolonged exposure to heat, lowering its ability to prevent embers and hot gasses from entering a home.
• Do not shutter doors, as you may need a means of egress in an emergency.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why does it matter?

Windblown embers from a wildfire can travel up to two miles. They can enter through your fireplace chimney flue, land on ignitable surfaces, and start a structure fire inside your home. If you have a fireplace, you could cause a wildfire in your neighborhood if embers fly from your chimney and collect on vegetation or ignitable surfaces like wood decks or roofs. The good news is that you can help prevent embers from entering or escaping your chimney by installing a simple, affordable fix.

What do I need to know?

Installing a welded wire, or woven wire mesh spark arrestor with openings less than 1/4 inch wide will prevent embers from entering or leaving your chimney.

Where do I start?

Verify that you have working spark arrestors in all chimneys and stovepipes in your home. Have a professional inspection and cleaning at least once per year and twice per year if you reside in a high wildfire risk area.

More Resources:

• FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
• FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

Utilities that penetrate your home can be a threat in a wildfire, and exterior equipment (ex: solar panels and receiver dishes) can be damaged by the high temperatures from a wildfire.

What do I need to know?

• Pressurized and liquid fuels (typically used for heating, hot water, and cooking) are flammable and explosive.
• Exterior equipment often has combustible components, and openings for ducting and conduit may be a vulnerability during a wildfire.
• Wildfires can affect power transmission, damage equipment, or cause a short circuit in the lines.
• Consider the potential effects of power outages and surges on utilities and exterior equipment: electrically-powered equipment miles away may be damaged, and water well power supplies are vulnerable.
• Roof-mounted equipment has the same ignition potential as the roofing assembly.
• Exposed, combustible delivery lines are vulnerable to wildfire (ex: pipe connections that include a rubberized gasket).
• Venting of fuel under pressure may cause significant damage or total destruction of your home.

Where do I start?

• Install utility and equipment connections underground, if possible. If underground installation isn’t possible, seal gaps and penetrations in exterior walls and roofs with fire-resistant materials. Fill large gaps with intumescent or fire-protective sheets or pillows. Use fire-resistant wrap around ventilation features that are built into and penetrate exterior walls (ex: air conditioners).
• Shield power cables and other wiring with noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.
• Use noncombustible or fire-resistant materials to mount roof-mounted equipment.
• Use surge protectors for valuable electronic equipment.
• Install Class A rated solar cell systems.
• Place fuel storage vessels 30 feet from your home, away from downhill slopes, and enclose vessels behind a noncombustible masonry wall. Bury pressurized storage vessels underground, if possible.
• Bury or shield fuel lines.
• Shield gas meters with noncombustible materials.
• Ensure pressurized storage tanks have a pressure relief valve.
• Use defensible space for the location of utilities and exterior equipment (ex: electric water pumps, fuel tanks).
• Reduce any potential combustible debris around exterior equipment.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why do they matter?

You can prevent damage to your home and help protect your neighborhood by combining exterior fire sprinklers with proven wildfire mitigation steps such as fuel management. Exterior fire sprinklers help protect your home outside by wetting the potential ignition zones like your roof and deck. Interior residential fire sprinklers protect you from fires that start when flying wildfire embers enter an unprotected chimney. Exterior fire sprinklers help protect your home outside by wetting the potential ignition zones like your roof and deck.

What do I need to know?

Interior fire sprinklers

• Interior sprinkler systems can detect a developing fire quickly. They activate automatically, extinguishing the fire before substantial damage occurs.
• Interior systems include an automatic warning system to alert residents and emergency response services.
• Today’s systems are zoned to limit water damage. If sprinklers deploy, they may cause some water damage, but the damage will likely be less severe than water damage from fire, fire suppression hoses, and smoke.
• Interior fire sprinklers for single-family homes are smaller than traditional commercial or industrial fire sprinklers. You can purchase various styles and colors, which can be mounted flush with the ceiling or concealed behind covers. Consider installing sprinklers in unoccupied, enclosed spaces like attics for additional protection.
• You can install interior sprinklers when building a new or existing home. Installing sprinklers during new construction adds approximately $1 to $2 per square foot. Retrofitting interior sprinklers in an existing home may cost $2 to $7 per square foot. You may save money by installing interior sprinklers when replacing or upgrading your roof.
• Most homeowners insurance companies provide a significant annual discount for homes with interior sprinkler systems, so they may pay for themselves depending on how long you own your home.

Exterior Fire Sprinklers

• Exterior fire sprinkler systems saturate a home’s exterior and can be installed during new construction or retrofitting.
• Exterior sprinklers are typically installed on the roof along the ridge line, underneath the eaves, and along the soffits.
• Exterior sprinklers can be activated automatically by heat sensors or manually before a wildfire evacuation. The systems include an automatic warning system to alert residents and emergency response services like interior fire sprinklers.
• Exterior sprinklers can use water piping through the attic or roof or on the home’s exterior. You can install exterior sprinklers in combination with interior sprinklers; however, a standalone system with a pressurized holding tank may ensure an adequate water supply.
• For exterior sprinklers in areas where freezing temperatures occur, use special provisions such as dry sprinklers to prevent water from freezing and rupturing the piping.
• Polymer gels, Class A foam products, and other fire retardants provide thermal protection in addition to water. You can apply many of these products using an exterior sprinkler system. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to determine options such as the amount of time needed for the application.
• High winds common during major wildfires can impair the effectiveness of an exterior sprinkler system.

Discover technical details:

• NFPA 13, Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems
• NFPA 13R, Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems in Low-Rise Residential Occupancies

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why do they matter?

Heat from a wildfire can fracture glass and cause it to fall out, potentially allowing flames and firebrands to enter your home. If an opening is breached and embers enter your home, fire can spread rapidly.

What do I need to know?

• The glazing (glass) in windows is vulnerable to fracture due to heat from a wildfire, as well as breakage from windborne firebrands.
• However, single or double pane tempered glass windows, doors, and skylights typically fracture at higher exposures, well above the radiant heat exposures capable of igniting the surrounding wood.
• Window, sliding glass door, and skylight frames are made of metal, plastic, wood, or a combination of these materials. Plastic and wooden frames may burn or melt. The failure of the frame or sash may mean that all the glazing falls out.
• Skylights on steep-sloped roofs can experience the same heat\temperature exposure as a window in a vertical wall.

Where do I start?

• Use multi-pane windows or tempered safety glass.
• Fireproof shutters can protect large windows and glass doors from radiant heat.
• Consider the size and materials for windows: smaller panes hold up better than larger ones; double pane glass and tempered glass are more effective than single pane glass; and plastic skylights can melt.
• Recommended glass products for homes in wildfire zones are laminated glass, tempered glass, glass with a low emissivity (low-e) coating, fiberglass-reinforced translucent glazing, and insulated glazing units (IGUs). Annealed glass, ceramic glass, and plastic glazing are not recommended.
• An insulated glazing unit (IGU) consists of two or three panes of glass that are separated by a sealed air space.
• There are many window and skylight frame products. Use metal or metal-clad wood, not wooden and plastic frames, to avoid window failure.

FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones provides the following guidance on recommended glass and types of glass to avoid:

Recommended glazing types

Laminated glass. Laminated glass provides resistance to windborne firebrands. If a firebrand strikes with enough momentum to break the glass, the plastic film in the core of the glass will keep the glazing in the frame, allowing the broken glass to continue to resist firebrand impacts, embers, and hot gases. If the plastic film in the core gets sufficiently hot, the pane will delaminate whether or not the glass has been broken. If laminated glass is specified, it should either be protected by shutters, as discussed below, or combined with tempered glass in an IGU.

Tempered glass. Tempered glass is more resistant to heat and flames than laminated glass or annealed glass. The resistance of tempered glass can be enhanced with a low-e coating or a proprietary reflective coating. Firebrands with sufficient momentum can break tempered glass. To avoid breakage, the glass can be protected by shutters. Another alternative is to specify and install an IGU with a laminated glass inner pane.

Low-emissivity (low-e) coating. Glass with a low-e coating provides a higher level of resistance to radiant heat than other types of glazing because the coating reflects radiant heat, reducing the probability that the heat will be able to enter the building. The coating should be on the inner surface of the exterior pane.

Proprietary fiberglass-reinforced translucent glazing. This product is available for skylights and walls. The skylight material has a Class A rating. See Fact Sheet #5, Roofs, for a discussion of this type of rating.

Insulated glazing unit. An IGU consists of two or three panes of glass that are separated by a sealed air space. Double-paned annealed units last about 10 minutes in a wildfire, twice as long as single-paned windows. In many cases, 10 minutes is long enough to provide protection from the fire. If the first pane fails, the second pane must still be penetrated. Laminated glass, tempered glass, and glass with a low-e coating can be combined in various ways into an IGU.

NOT Recommended

Annealed glass. Annealed glass (also known as common float glass) is commonly used in residential windows. Annealed glass is the most susceptible to wildfires of the various glass types and is not recommended for homes in wildfire zones unless protected by shutters.

Ceramic glass. This specialty glass is effective at resisting flames, but it transmits radiant heat readily. If ceramic glass is used for exterior glazing, heat that is high enough to cause ignition can be transmitted into the interior of the building. Ceramic glass is not recommended for homes in wildfire zones.

Plastic glazing. Acrylic and polycarbonate are often used in skylights and sometimes in windows. Because plastic glazing can melt during a wildfire, it is not recommended for homes in wildfire zones.

Discover technical details:

In fire-rated walls, use windows and sliding glass doors that are commensurate with the fire rating of the wall. For example, a 1½-hour rated window is intended to be used in a wall with a 2-hour rating, and a 3/4-hour rated door is intended to be used in a 1-hour rated wall. However, you can use a window with a higher fire rating. If a fire-rated wall is not specified, use an IGU with a metal or metal-clad wooden frame.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
• FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
• FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

Exterior walls can ignite from a wildfire’s radiant and convective heat. A fire on an exterior wall of your home can ‘bridge’ to more vulnerable areas such as eaves, soffits, vents, and windows. Protect your home by making your exterior walls fire resistant.

What do I need to know?

• Cement, plaster, stucco, and concrete masonry such as stone, brick, or block resist heat and flames. These exterior components are known as the “cladding” of the building.
• Some cladding materials will not burn, but they may lose their integrity when exposed to high temperatures and fall away or melt, allowing fire a direct path inside the home (ex: vinyl siding).
• Windborne embers and firebrands may spread fire as well. Embers can become trapped in cracks in walls, window openings, and door trim boards and ignite combustible materials. Windborne firebrands can ignite wall coverings.
• Exterior wall fire resistance is dependent mostly on the construction materials and the amount of nearby combustible material.

Where do I start?

New Construction

• Choose exterior wall coverings that are noncombustible or fire-resistant and not susceptible to melting.
  • Recommended materials: Concrete, fiber-cement panels or siding, exterior fire-retardant-treated wood siding or panels, stucco, masonry, and metal.
    • These coverings should not ignite and fuel the fire.
    • Insulated concrete form (ICF) walls provide exceptional fire resistance as well as cast-in-place concrete or fully grouted concrete masonry units. If you choose ICF, use a stucco or masonry wall covering to protect the plastic foam forms.
  • Not recommended materials: not fire-retardant-treated wood siding, vinyl siding, metal siding susceptible to warping, and an exterior insulation finish system.
• If fiber-cement or metal wall coverings are used, install one layer of 5/8-inch type X exterior gypsum board with taped joints underneath housewrap.
• For vinyl siding (vinyl siding is not recommended), install one layer of 5/8-inch type X exterior gypsum board with taped joints underneath housewrap.
• Use noncombustible or fire-resistant material such as exterior fire-retardant-treated wood or fiber-cement for trim boards around doors, windows, eaves, and corners.

Existing Buildings

• Replace exterior wall coverings that are combustible, are susceptible to melting, or can readily transmit heat (ex: not fire-retardant-treated wood siding, vinyl siding, metal siding, and an exterior insulation finish system) with one of the recommended coverings (concrete, fiber-cement panels or siding, exterior fire-retardant-treated wood siding or panels, stucco, masonry, and metal).
• Before you replace vinyl or metal siding, look for an underlying gypsum board substrate as that may mean you don’t need remedial work.
• Check to see if you can keep the existing covering and cover it with 5/8-inch type X gypsum board and a new covering.
• Maintain and remove combustible debris (such as vegetation and leaves) and firewood near the exterior walls regularly to reduce the potential of ignition during a wildfire.

More Resources:

• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
• FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.