Prepare for Disasters

Your life can change in the blink of an eye.

Having the right amount and type of insurance for your car, home, boat, and other high-value possessions will ensure that you will have the money you need to recover after disaster strikes.

Start with A Homeowners Guide to Natural Disasters for an introduction to basic mitigation and policy benefits, limitations, and opportunities to save with credits and discounts.

Then schedule a checkup with your insurance company or agent to ask critical questions like:

  • How do I get insurance for the perils my home faces?
  • What is my deductible?
  • How do I file a claim?

What Type of Insurance Policy Is Right for You?

Different types of insurance policies are available to cover various weather or geophysical perils, such as earthquakes. The most appropriate insurance product for your needs depends primarily on your type of dwelling.

Homeowners: If you own a home, there are two available policy forms: homeowners and dwelling forms. The main difference between these two types of forms is that a homeowners form combines property coverage with liability coverage, while the dwelling form only covers property losses. Additionally, a dwelling form is more commonly used for a dwelling that an insured person owns but does not live in or only lives in for part of the year. Both types of policy forms have various peril coverage options available for the dwelling and its contents.

Manufactured homeowners: There are policy forms specifically designed to insure manufactured homes. This type of policy covers both the dwelling and its contents and provides liability protection.

Condo owners: There are policy forms specifically designed to cover condominiums. This type of policy typically covers contents, such as your personal property and liability. A small amount of dwelling coverage is provided to cover the portions of the condominium that you are responsible for, as defined by the governing rules of the condominium association; this may include condominium common areas. You can purchase additional dwelling coverage if the protection included in the package is insufficient.

Renters: There are renter’s insurance policy forms specifically designed for you if you are renting and do not own your residence. These forms provide coverage for your contents and liability.

Farm homeowners: Farm owner’s policy forms are specifically designed to cover farms or ranches which may not qualify for standard homeowners insurance. This policy may be the most appropriate form to cover property losses to your home and other structures, such as barns and silos, from the damage of tornadoes, hail, and other perils. Farm owner’s policies also cover personal and commercial exposure of farms, along with liability coverage.

Two exceptions worth noting
Earthquake and flood policies typically need to be purchased separately or as additional endorsements to your standard policy, regardless of your dwelling type. The limits of these policies can match the homeowner’s or renter’s policy, or they can be set as separate limits.

Buying Insurance in the Voluntary Market

Generally, insurance may be purchased from property casualty insurance companies through the voluntary market, meaning that the insurance companies voluntarily provide coverage to customers who meet the underwriting requirements. Availability and types of coverage may vary across states and companies, so consumers should research property coverage for specific perils in their area.

There are four main distribution systems employed by property casualty insurance companies in the U.S.:

  • Independent Agency System: Independent contractors who typically represent multiple insurance companies.
  • Exclusive Agency System: Independent contractors who may only represent a single insurance company.
  • Direct Writer System: Sales agents who are employees of the insurance companies.
  • Direct Response System: No agents are used, and insurance is sold through direct mail, telephone, or the Internet.

Buying Insurance in the Shared Market

Involuntary market mechanisms (sometimes referred to as shared markets) provide coverage for entities that do not qualify for coverage in the voluntary market. There are many reasons why coverage may not be available through the voluntary market in a particular place. For example, living in a high-risk area, such as a designated wildfire zone, near a coastline, or in an area affected by a recent catastrophic event may lead to reduced availability of coverage.

The following kinds of property insurance market mechanisms exist in certain areas:

  • Fair Access to Insurance Requirements (FAIR Plans): Insurance pools that sell property insurance to people who cannot buy it in the voluntary market because of high risk over which they may have no control. Plans vary by state, but all require property insurers licensed in a state to participate in the pool and share in the profits and losses.
  • Joint Underwriting Associations (JUA): Insurers that join together to provide coverage for a particular type of risk or size of exposure when there are difficulties in obtaining coverage in the regular market, they may share in the profits and losses associated with the program.
  • Beach and Windstorm Plans: These plans exist in coastal states, in hurricane zones of the Gulf, and along the South Atlantic coast. Windstorm plans provide coverage that is often excluded from voluntary insurer policies. Each coastal state from Texas to North Carolina has a beach and windstorm pool to provide windstorm coverage in coastal areas. The way these plans are funded varies from state to state.
  • California Earthquake Authority: Although there is no truly involuntary market mechanism for earthquake coverage, the California Legislature established the California Earthquake Authority (CEA) as a privately financed, publicly managed risk bearer to help California residents obtain earthquake insurance. The CEA is California’s largest residential earthquake insurer.

Market conditions in some states have made it difficult for voluntary insurers to provide affordable coverage. Under those circumstances, coverage may be available through a FAIR plan. If you find that you are unable to obtain insurance through the voluntary market, your insurance agent may help you find coverage through the involuntary market, or you may be able to contact the plans directly. Because these entities vary greatly by locality, your state insurance department is likely the best source of information on how to obtain coverage through the involuntary market in your state.

More Resources

Homeowners insurance protects your home and everything in it from accidental and unexpected incidents. If something catastrophic occurs, you will need to provide a list of everything that was in the house, and in some cases, even photographic evidence of valuable possessions.

Here’s how to create a home inventory that will make future insurance claims run smoothly:

1. Plan ahead

  • Creating a home inventory may feel overwhelming, so break it into manageable chunks by capturing one location at a time.
  • Think about each room and section of your home. Don’t forget your attic, basement, closets, garage, and any detached structures, such as tool sheds.
  • Consider asking a family member to help document the items.

2. Pick a method to fit your needs

Visual Inventory

  • A quick, simple way to create your inventory is by using your phone to take photos and videos of belongings, as well as entire rooms, closets, and drawer contents.
  • As you record each space, narrate the description of items (“Brand X television purchased in 2009″). Take a photo of the serial number and label. If you have the receipt, take a photo of it too so that the records are stored together.
  • Regardless of how you capture your inventory, remember to back up the videos and photos on the cloud.

Written Inventory

  • If you prefer a written record, create a spreadsheet or list to catalog your belongings. Be sure to include columns for item descriptions, purchase dates, serial numbers, and any other relevant information.
  • Take photos of your possessions and include them in your spreadsheet. You can also store them on a flash drive.
  • Make copies of the spreadsheet and photo drive and store one copy in a fireproof safe or safety deposit box. Send additional copies to a trusted relative or friend to ensure you have access when a disaster strikes as you may not be able to get home right away.
  • Scan and store all records electronically and back up on the cloud whenever possible.

3. Track Receipts

For more expensive items, store receipts electronically in a folder backed up to the cloud, on a flash drive, or in a written physical record along with other essential documents in a sealed waterproof bag.

If you are keeping a physical record, keep a copy in your “go bag” in case you have to evacuate.

4. Register goods

Take advantage of all product warranties by registering your new appliances and products. That way you can get helpful information about the product for an insurance claim.

5. Conduct annual checkups

Keep the name, telephone number, email, and web address of your insurance agent and/or company in a safe place, including on your computer or on your phone.

Contact your home insurance company or agent and request a policy review. Use the insurance checkup checklist to make sure you have the right financial resources to rebuild, recover, and bounce back from any disaster.

Update your home inventory regularly and read your insurance policy carefully to understand what is and isn’t covered (deductibles, general and specific limits, flood coverage, etc.).

If you must evacuate the area, notify your insurance company and verify what your insurance policy will cover for temporary lodging.

More Resources

For more information about insurance, check out A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters for an introduction to mitigation and policy benefits, limitations, and ways to save with credits and discounts.

FLASH and The Actuarial Foundation. If Disaster Strikes, Will You Be Covered? A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters.

While adequate insurance coverage is essential to disaster recovery, premiums can present a significant expense for homeowners. Premiums may increase over time with inflation, increased costs of construction, or other factors; however, it is possible to reduce potential costs.

In addition to the premium, you’ll need to account for the deductible — the amount of your claim that you pay before any payment is made by your insurance company. The larger your deductible is, the lower your premium will be. However, the larger the deductible, the more out-of-pocket payment you will be responsible for when a loss occurs.

Dollar deductibles: A dollar deductible is the dollar value the insured must pay before the insurance company will pay the remainder of the claim. For example, with a $500 standard deductible, the policyholder must pay the first $500 out of pocket. Some insurers offer policies with higher dollar deductibles for hurricane and earthquake damage. The higher the deductible for a given policy, the lower the premium. This is because the insured is bearing more of the risk.

Percentage deductibles: Percentage deductibles are calculated based on the home’s insured value. For example, if a house is insured for $100,000 and has a 2% deductible, the first $2,000 (or 2% of the insurance value of $100,000) of a claim must be paid by the policyholder. In many states, policyholders have the option of paying a higher premium if they prefer a traditional dollar deductible instead of a percentage deductible or if they prefer to have a lower percentage deductible. Percentage deductibles are sometimes mandatory. It is important to remember that the dollar value of a percentage deductible will change as the insured value changes.

Here are some options for saving money on your homeowners insurance.

Adjust the Deductible

A policy may have different types and amounts of deductibles based on the peril. Many insurers offer homeowners insurance policies with percentage deductibles for windstorm damage instead of the traditional dollar value deductibles used for other types of claims, such as fire and theft.

One of the more common percentage deductibles is the hurricane percentage deductible that applies to damage solely from hurricanes. For example, a policyholder may have a $1,000 deductible for fire losses, but a 2% deductible for hurricane losses, making the hurricane percentage deductible a significant part of the policy. An earthquake policy with an additional third deductible could differ from all other deductibles for the insured property, as well.

Qualify for Premium Discounts

Premium discounts vary widely by state and company. Secure price quotes from more than one source before choosing a policy, and use the list below to request potential discounts. This list is not exhaustive, so you may qualify for additional discounts.

  • Discounts may be offered when purchasing home and auto insurance from the same insurer.
  • Discounts are typically available for homes with burglar alarms, dead-bolt locks, fire sprinklers, and smoke alarms.
  • Discounts are sometimes available for homes with water detection systems or other telematic devices that transmit home statuses.
  • Discounts may be available for policyholders who are at least 55 years old and retired. Discounts are often available for certain professionals, alumni, and business groups.
  • Long-time customers may be offered insurance discounts.
  • Homes constructed in communities using current, model building codes will typically receive automatic credits on insurance premiums. The community’s Building Code Effectiveness Schedule (BCEGS) rating will indicate the favorability of the code. Lower BCEGS ratings of 1 to 4 are ideal.
  • Homes built or retrofitted with disaster-resistant features for earthquakes, floods, hail, hurricanes, wildfires, or windstorms may be eligible for credits or discounts. Examples of qualifying features include braced cripple walls in seismic zones, elevated foundations for flood protection, hurricane shutters, impact-resistant roof coverings, sealed roof decks, superior roof connections, impact- and wind-resistant garage and entry doors, and more.

More Resources

How do you make sure that you can insure your home against disasters like hurricanes and floods? The location of a property can be a primary factor of insurance availability. Homes located in areas with greater exposure to losses due to a particular peril pay a higher cost for coverage than areas less exposed to that peril.

Insurance premiums for homes in the Midwest may reflect a higher cost due to tornado coverage. It may be difficult to find available or affordable coverage in the voluntary market for homes with greater exposure to wildfires, such as those in designated brush zones in California. It is essential to evaluate the insurability of a property before purchasing a new home.

Another factor that affects the availability of insurance is a pending event. For example, if a hurricane or a wildfire is approaching, insurance companies will often issue a temporary prohibition on issuing coverage, and no new coverage can be written in the area threatened by the peril until the threat passes.

Consider possible perils and how they might affect the availability of insurance when you’re shopping for a home or adding coverage to your current property.

Exposure to Earthquakes

Homeowners who live on or near major faults are vulnerable to earthquakes, and the soil type in certain areas may be more susceptible to earthquake damage. As a result, the closer a home is to a fault line, or if it sits on certain susceptible soil types, the more limited insurance options may be because of the risk of earthquake loss.

Recent earthquake activity can also determine earthquake insurance availability. As more earthquakes occur, insurance companies are likely to experience significant claims from earthquakes and may become financially distressed. These companies may find it difficult to provide coverage to the same volume of policyholders which can cause an overall availability problem. In certain areas, state associations are established to ensure insurance availability in constricted markets. These publicly run entities provide insurance coverage when availability and affordability problems arise.

Exposure to Hurricanes

Homes in coastal areas of the U.S. are more exposed to hurricanes than homes further inland. As a result, homeowners in these areas may have fewer choices for hurricane insurance. Frequent storm activity can constrict hurricane insurance availability and markets. As with earthquakes, publicly run entities typically fill gaps in the market and may provide insurance coverage when availability and affordability problems occur.

Home Features

Homeowners can encounter insurance availability problems due to the location of their home as described above. However, if a home has unusually hazardous features, insurance companies may be unwilling to provide coverage regardless of location.

Some of the features considered hazardous include inferior construction, a low-performing roof shape or roof covering, an unbolted frame, an unsecured chimney and/or water heater, or structurally weak features such as awnings or other exterior ornamentation. Additionally, older homes that do not meet current building codes and poorly maintained homes may be difficult to insure.

Ensuring the “Insurability” of Your Home

Homeowners can ensure the insurability of their home by keeping the property current to local and modern model building codes, by performing regular home maintenance, and by implementing loss mitigation measures. Homeowners may also evaluate their insurance options by staying informed of changes in the local insurance marketplace.

More Resources

Guaranteeing you’re adequately insured and protected before a disaster is critical. You can start by checking your coverage options, property definitions, and the extent of coverage available. Options will vary by state, company, and product.

Here’s everything you need to know about your choices of home insurance for disasters.

The Four Coverage Categories

Insurance companies define four coverage categories for your home:

  1. Dwelling: The structure of your home is considered a covered property. It is referred to in the policy as the “dwelling.”
  2. Other structures: Structures separate from your home or linked by a fence, wire, or other forms of connection are referred to in the policy as “other structures.” Examples include tool sheds or detached garages.
  3. Personal property: Your belongings and the contents of your home are referred to in the policy as “personal property.” It includes, but is not limited to, appliances, clothing, electronics, and furniture. Not all personal property is covered. Some items may have coverage limits or are covered under different forms of insurance. Examples include, but are not limited to, money, jewelry, and firearms.
  4. Loss of use: When a dwelling becomes uninhabitable due to a covered disaster, the cost of additional living expenses are covered and defined as “loss of use.” Loss of use coverage reimburses living expenses, up to a stated limit, that the insured incurs to maintain a normal standard of living after a covered loss.

“Open Perils” and “Named Perils” Coverage

A peril, as referred to in an insurance policy, is a cause of damage that results in an insured loss of property, such as fire or theft. Coverage can be provided on an “all perils” (open perils) basis or a “named perils” basis. Named perils policies list what is covered by the policy and are generally more restrictive. All perils policies list what is excluded from coverage. A dwelling policy usually provides coverage for both the dwelling and its contents on a named perils basis. A homeowners policy usually provides coverage for the dwelling on an all perils basis and coverage for the contents on a named perils basis.

Package vs. Peril-Specific Coverage

A package policy provides coverage for multiple, but usually not all, perils. A homeowners policy is a package policy that provides coverage for fire, lightning, extended coverages, and personal liability. Extended coverage includes coverage for windstorm, hail, explosion, riot, civil commotion, aircraft, vehicles, smoke, vandalism, malicious mischief, theft, and breakage of glass. Some policies, such as earthquake or flood policies, provide coverage for specific perils that are often excluded in package policies. Fire and water damage from an earthquake may be covered by a standard homeowners policy.

It is important to consider what additional perils you may face and verify what is covered by your specific policy. Consult with your insurance company about perils you may face and what perils are covered by your policy.

Does My Policy Cover That?

  1. Earthquakes: Most property insurance policies exclude coverage for losses resulting from earthquakes (although they often cover losses related to fires following earthquakes), so separate policies are typically required for earthquake coverage. Some states with risk of loss from earthquakes have government-mandated insurance plans that provide earthquake coverage to property owners who are unable to obtain insurance through the voluntary market.
  2. Flood: Most property insurance policies exclude coverage for flood losses. You must purchase a flood policy to be covered for losses caused by a flood. (For a more comprehensive discussion of flood insurance, see Preparing for a Flood.)
  3. Hail: Most property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from hail. Hail is a named peril. For coverage to apply under a “named perils” policy, hail must be listed as a covered peril. However, hail is generally included under the broader peril of windstorm. Windstorm coverage includes hail, hurricanes, tornadoes, and straight-line winds. There may be instances where coverages and deductibles apply to only one of these perils, for example, hurricanes, and not to all windstorms.
  4. Hurricanes: Most property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from hurricanes under the windstorm coverage, although flood loss associated with hurricanes is excluded. (See Preparing for a Flood for more information.) Most states with risk of loss from hurricanes have government-mandated insurance plans that provide windstorm coverage to property owners who are unable to obtain insurance through the voluntary market.
  5. Tornadoes: Most property insurance policies consider tornadoes a covered peril, although they do not cover losses resulting from the peril of flood. (See Preparing for a Flood for more information.) While tornadoes may not be specifically mentioned as a covered peril, tornado losses are one event covered under the windstorm peril.
  6. Wildfires: All property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from fires. Depending on the level of exposure, you may need to consider a higher deductible to obtain coverage or keep it affordable. Most states have coverage available via a Fair Access to Insurance Requirements (FAIR) plan or a Joint Underwriting Association (JUA) if the voluntary market is not willing to provide coverage.

How Much Coverage Do I Need?

Depending on the type of policy, dwelling coverage options could include replacement cost coverage, actual cash value, special payment, functional replacement cost or market value coverage, or stated value.

The settlement of a loss will vary depending on the coverage you select when you purchase your policy.

  1. Replacement cost coverage: Replacement cost is he current cost to replace the damaged property, with no reduction for depreciation of the damaged property. It is not the market value or the tax-assessed value of the property.
  2. Actual cash value: Actual cash value is the cost to replace the damaged property reduced by an allowance for depreciation.
  3. Special payment: Special payment is distributed before a damaged dwelling is repaired, rebuilt, or replaced.
  4. Functional replacement cost or market value coverage: Functional replacement cost or market value (also known as repair cost) is the cost to repair or replace the damaged property with equivalent construction for similar use without deduction for depreciation (e.g., replacing a plaster wall with drywall). If it is a total loss and repairs are not made, the payment amount will be the market value of the home.
  5. Stated value: Stated value coverage is the value of the policy, which is the maximum amount paid at the time of loss, even if the loss amount is larger than the value of the policy. A selected value is established by the insured, and this value is the limit of liability.

Personal Property Coverage Choices

Depending on the type of policy, personal property coverage options could be replacement cost coverage or actual cash coverage, as explained above.

What Is the Insurance-to-Value Ratio?

Insurance-to-value ratio is the relationship of the amount of insurance purchased to the replacement value of the property. It is important to have an accurate assessment of the replacement cost value of your home. If you don’t and then experience a loss, the cost to replace your home may be more than your insurance policy will provide and you would be responsible for covering the difference. Major catastrophes, such as earthquakes, hurricanes, and wildfires, often can create a demand surge for materials and labor, resulting in increased costs to replace damaged property. Consider the effect of such surges when establishing the appropriate replacement cost for your property.

Most property policies have a coinsurance penalty, which requires that your property be insured to at least 80% of the replacement cost or loss payments will be reduced by a proportion of the insured value to 80% of replacement value.

It is also important to realize that other coverage limits within your policy are set as a percentage of the dwelling coverage amount. For example, the limit of coverage for your personal property will usually be at 50% of the dwelling limit. Additional coverage is available via endorsement and is typically increased if you purchase replacement cost coverage for your contents.

Replacement Cost Coverage

In order to qualify for replacement cost coverage, you will most likely be required to insure your property to at least 80% of the replacement cost. If this requirement is met and you have a total loss, your insurance policy will cover the total cost of replacing your home. If the property is not insured to at least the 80% value, then the payment for partial losses may be reduced. For a total loss to be paid, the property should be insured at 100% of the replacement cost.

Additional Limits in the Case of a Total Loss

Many insurance companies offer an endorsement that provides full coverage to replace your property in the event of a total loss. Usually, the company requires that the property be insured to at least 100% of the replacement cost in order to qualify for this additional coverage. As long as this requirement is met, if you have a total loss and it costs more to replace than your limit (due to a misestimate or demand surge), the coverage under your insurance policy will be increased accordingly. The amount of the increase depends on the endorsement purchased and can range from 25% to 100%.

Additional and Optional Coverage

Additional coverage may be included in your policy. One example is a building code upgrade, which provides 10% coverage for upgrades required by the community to meet building codes when a home is being repaired or rebuilt as a result of a covered loss. Optional coverage for perils, such as earthquake insurance, may be available to purchase to supplement your policy.

More Resources

FLASH and The Actuarial Foundation. If Disaster Strikes, Will You Be Covered? A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters.

Once you and your family are prepared, consider extended family members or friends who are especially vulnerable during disasters. Pay special attention to folks with financial limitations and seniors.

You can help your broader community before, during, and after disasters by volunteering. Find an organization in your community, and participate in a class, training, or discussion. Affiliate with the organization before disaster strikes.

Local nonprofits, faith-based organizations, schools, and civic groups are all great places to begin your search. There are many ways to help your community, including delivering food to older adults or organizing your own community project. Consider any special skills you may be able to offer.

Get training in CPR and basic first aid, as well as other hazard-specific training. A financial contribution or gift to a recognized nonprofit disaster relief organization is always an effective way to support disaster recovery, and even small amounts can make a big difference.

Here are some options to get you started to support community disaster resilience:

  • Join your local Community Emergency Response Team (CERT) program. CERT programs are typically sponsored, affiliated, or created in partnership with a local fire department, law enforcement agency, or emergency management agency. Get CERT trained in basic disaster response skills, such as fire safety, light search and rescue, team organization, and disaster medical operations.
  • Find a volunteer opportunity with your state’s Voluntary Organizations Active in Disaster (VOAD). National VOAD is an association of organizations that mitigate and lessen the impact of disasters.
  • Don’t forget the crucial role youth play in disaster preparedness. Get resources to integrate children and youth into family and community disaster preparedness.

Where will your family or household be when disaster strikes? If you are not together when an emergency happens, will everyone know how to stay in contact — even if cell towers are down and phones don’t work? Do you have a meeting place and will everyone have a way to get there?

To develop a family disaster plan, start by mapping out contact methods and meeting places. Then share and practice your plan with your family or household and out-of-town contact. While you develop your plan, keep in mind these specific household needs:

  • Ages of household members
  • Medical needs like prescriptions and equipment
  • Disabilities or access and functional needs
  • Dietary needs
  • Pets or service animals
  • Languages spoken

After you make your plan, all you need to do is revisit and communicate your plan regularly so you’re ready when disaster strikes.

Build your plan

  • Write it down.
    • Create a document with the contact information for your family, close friends, designated out-of-town contact, employers, and other service providers like doctors, schools, etc.
  • Plan to communicate.
    • Plan how to communicate with family or friends when disaster strikes.
    • Discuss the benefits of calling, texting, emailing, or using social media. Texting tends to work more reliably than calling, especially when systems are in high demand.
    • Determine how your family will receive emergency updates and alerts.
  • Choose a meeting place.
    • Pick two places to meet your family or household members.
    • Meet outside your home in case of a sudden emergency or at a friend’s or neighbor’s house in case you can’t return home.
    • Ensure that these places are reachable for those with access and functional needs and that your pets are welcome.
    • Share the address and phone number for each of your meet-up locations.
    • Add the information to your phone’s contacts and list them in your plan.
  • Plan to evacuate.
    • If an evacuation is necessary, determine where you will evacuate and how you will get there.
    • If you plan to shelter-in-place, identify the safest location in your home to shelter during a disaster.
  • Identify emergency contact(s).
    • Ask an out-of-town family member or friend to be your emergency contact.
    • Ensure everyone in your household knows the contact’s name, location, phone number, email, and any social media contact options.
  • Schedule a meeting.
    • Set a meeting with your household to talk about the types of disasters and hazards you might face.
    • Work together and share responsibilities as a team.

Know your plan

Send links to your disaster plan and make copies for all family or household members and emergency contacts. Post a copy in a prominent place in your home like a bulletin board.

Practice the plan

Regularly gather your family or household members to review and practice your plan. Discuss what information you would communicate during a disaster and send practice messages. Make sure all family members (including children) understand how and when to call 911.

Update your communication plan at least once a year or whenever information changes.

Special Considerations for Families with Children

A natural disaster is often devastating for adults, but children can be especially vulnerable to stress and anxiety when disaster strikes. Prepare your children before a disaster and plan activities to keep them busy during and after an emergency.

Getting kids involved in the planning process and letting them plan activities will distribute the workload and give your family a sense of control.

Preparing Your Children for Disasters

  • Learn what types of emergencies are possible where you live, teach your children about them, and discuss the steps you’ve taken to protect your family and home.
  • Discuss emergencies that may require evacuation, such as a hurricane, and shelter-in-place emergencies, such as a tornado.
  • Include your children when creating your family communication plans and building a disaster supply kit.
  • Have a disaster drill and practice your plan, making sure to give your children a role and way to participate.
  • Prepare fun, kid-friendly activities and games to keep them occupied. Choose games that they do not ordinarily play, so they have something special to enjoy.
  • Select activities that do not require power so you can conserve your batteries and back-up power sources.

More Resources

Pets are cherished family members, so it’s essential to plan for their safety and comfort as a part of your comprehensive family disaster plan.

Take inventory of your supplies and review all records periodically so your pet can be safe and cared for during any disaster.

Consider these options for your pet’s location during a disaster.

  • Take your pet with you to a friend’s or family member’s house or a hotel outside the threat zone. Make arrangements ahead of time to avoid last-minute surprises and confusion.
  • Keep your pet with you in a secure, storm-prepared shelter location. Find evacuation shelters that accept pets ahead of time. While many shelters will accept pets, some can only accommodate service animals or certain types of pets like dogs.
  • Leave your pet with a friend in a safe zone or make boarding arrangements with a veterinary clinic or kennel. Talk to the kennel about advance registration and requirements like shots.
  • Create a safe, quiet, and comfortable space in your home for your pet. Never leave them alone or behind.

Keep your pet prepared at all times.

  • Portable carrier (large enough for the pet to stand up and turn around)
  • Extra leash, collar and ID tag
  • Pet food: At least 2 weeks of dry food in a water-tight container or canned food (include a manual can opener)
  • Water: At least 2 weeks of clean water (large dogs need 1 gallon per day)
  • Up-to-date health and immunization records
  • Medications (flea and tick preventative, a two-month supply of heartworm prevention medication, all prescription medications)
  • Litter/newspapers for clean-up
  • Toys and treats
  • Towels
  • First aid supplies
  • A recent photo of you with your pet

How to prepare large animals for a disaster

Prepare your large animals such as horses, cattle, sheep, goats, or pigs before a disaster using the following tips from FEMA:

  • Ensure all animals have some form of identification.
  • Evacuate animals whenever possible. Map out primary and secondary routes in advance.
  • Make vehicles and trailers needed for transporting and supporting each type of animal available. Make sure experienced handlers and drivers are also available.
  • Ensure destinations have food, water, veterinary care, and handling equipment.
  • If evacuation is not possible, animal owners must decide whether to move large animals to shelter or turn them outside.

Take the extra time to observe livestock, looking for early signs of disease and injury. Severe cold-weather injuries or death primarily occur in the very young or in animals that are already debilitated.

Animals suffering from frostbite don’t exhibit pain. It may be up to two weeks before the injury becomes evident as the damaged tissue starts to slough away. At that point, treat the injury like an open wound, and consult a veterinarian.

Make sure your livestock has the following to help prevent cold-weather problems:

  • Plenty of dry bedding to insulate vulnerable udders, genitals, and legs from the frozen ground and frigid winds.
  • Windbreaks to keep animals safe from frigid conditions.
  • Plenty of food and water

More Resources

Nearly every home is susceptible to power outages caused by disasters. Some disruptions last for days, even weeks. Electrical power loss can create unhealthy and unsafe living conditions or building damage.

Taking steps to prepare before a power outage is the best way to maintain your family’s comfort and avoid danger, costly losses, or damage to your home. Learning how to protect food, prevent mold growth, safely use generators, prevent carbon monoxide poisoning, and avoid house fires when power returns are all essential parts of your power outage preparedness plan.

Evaluate and secure different backup power options ranging from small backup batteries and solar charging options to portable or standby generators with an automatic switch.

Before a Power Outage

Prepare for a power outage

  • Keep a disaster supply kit handy with water, nonperishable foods, medicine, printed copies of essential documents, baby supplies, pet food, and more.
  • Maintain a supply of cash as ATMs may not operate, and businesses and restaurants may be unable to accept debit or credit cards.
  • Maintain a supply of flashlights, batteries, hand-crank cell phone chargers, battery, and solar-powered radios.
  • Identify an alternative power supply for any family members who are dependent on electric medical equipment.
  • Consider purchasing a portable generator and learn how to use and ventilate it safely before an outage occurs.
  • Consider purchasing and installing a standby home generator with an automatic switch.
  • Keep your landscape trimmed and clear of dead or weak branches to prevent power loss from downed trees and limbs.

Consider evacuation needs

  • Keep your gas tank full or nearly full at all times as gas stations rely on electricity to power their pumps. If you use your car to charge your devices, never leave it running inside a garage, partially-enclosed space, or near a home.
  • If your garage door opener is electric, know how to locate and use the manual release lever. Understand that you may need help to lift the garage door due to weight. If you ordinarily enter your home through the garage, make sure you have an alternate way and key to enter if the garage door won’t open.
  • Learn about state or local emergency plans detailing the closest cooling and warming shelters. If the temperature is extremely hot or cold outside and the power outage is expected to last for a long time, consider relocating temporarily to a site with heating or air conditioning.

Protect electronics

  • Back up your computer files and operating systems regularly. Consider extra batteries and a power converter for your laptop.
  • Turn off all appliances and electronic devices when they’re not in use to protect them from power surges.
  • Use a high-quality surge protector for all high-value electronics. If you use a computer frequently, consult your local computer equipment dealer about an uninterruptible power supply (UPS).
  • If your telephone requires electricity, such as a cordless phone or answering machine, plan alternate communication options, including a regular telephone handset, cell phone, radio, or pager.
  • Ask remote service providers if they have backup power systems and how long those systems will operate. Some voicemail systems and remote computer dial-up servers may not work if power is out in their location, even if your power is uninterrupted.

Plan for people with disabilities

  • If you need electricity to operate medical equipment in your home, plan with your doctor, health care provider or local emergency management office.
  • Charge devices and extra batteries to maintain power to your equipment during electric outages.
  • Contact your power company if you use oxygen or mechanical ventilation. Find out what you can expect in a power outage.
  • Sign up for automatic power company alerts to stay aware of planned or unplanned power outages and power restoration.
  • Plan how you will maintain power during an outage if you cannot be without it. Consider using a backup battery, a generator, solar energy or other alternate electrical resources. Consider how you will keep your medications refrigerated.

During and After a Power Outage

  • Keep your use of electricity minimal by practicing energy conservation measures to help power companies avoid imposing rolling blackouts.
  • Use sewage check valves and backflow preventers on your home to guard against contamination. Electrical power loss can have many secondary effects, including compromised water and sewage systems.
  • Use flashlights and rechargeable lamps instead of candles during a power outage. Candles present a fire risk when first responders may be unable to reach you.
  • Turn off any electrical equipment that was in use before the power outage, but leave one light on to alert you when power resumes.
  • Check on elderly neighbors, friends, or relatives who may need assistance if the weather is severe during the outage.
  • During a power outage, resist the temptation to call 911 for information. Use radios, online news sources, or social media channels for updates.
  • Be careful when driving through intersections as traffic lights may not be working.
  • Once your power is restored, wait a few minutes before turning on major appliances to avoid problems caused by a sharp increase in demand.

Practice food and water safety

During or after a power outage or disaster, your food may no longer be safe to eat. Take precautions to prevent food spoilage, and know when you should dispose of refrigerated food. Food that has not been refrigerated can spoil quickly and cause severe health problems, so you should take all steps to keep it safe. Here’s how the following steps to extend the shelf life of your refrigerated food:

  • Turn your refrigerator or freezer to the coldest setting before the power goes out.
  • Keep a supply of nonperishable foods, medicine, baby supplies, and pet food on hand.
  • Prepare one gallon of water per person per day for at least three days.
  • Fill plastic containers with water, leaving about an inch of space in the container, and store them in your refrigerator or freezer as space allows. Storing this water will help keep food cold during a power outage.
  • Keep one or more coolers with ample ice to keep your food cold in case a power outage is prolonged. Avoid storing perishable foods above 40℉ for more than two hours.
  • Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed. If the door is closed, items in a refrigerator will keep for up to four hours. If the door is closed, items in a full freezer will stay frozen for about two days, and in a half-full freezer for about one day.
  • Use a refrigerator thermometer to check temperature. For proper food storage, refrigerated or frozen foods should be kept at 40° F or below. Discard any perishable refrigerated foods that have been above 40° F for more than two hours.
  • Discard any food with an unusual odor, color, or texture. Remember: “When in doubt, throw it out.”
  • Food exposed to wildfire can be unsafe from the heat of the fire, smoke fumes, and chemicals used to fight fire.

How to Safely Use a Generator

You can also make your home resilient to power loss by using a combination of power generation options from basic to sophisticated. Then you can provide backup power for lighting, food preservation, limited air conditioning, prevention of mold growth on interior finishes, and much more.

Consult a licensed, professional electrician to evaluate your generator purchase options. Two kinds of generators can generate emergency power in your home: permanently installed standby or “whole house” generators, and temporary, portable generators.

Ensure your generator is properly ventilated. Improperly ventilated generators can cause deadly carbon monoxide fumes to build up. The fumes are odorless and are often fatal.

  • Understand the primary hazards to avoid when using a generator: carbon monoxide
  • (CO) poisoning from the toxic engine exhaust, electric shock/electrocution, and fire.
  • Follow manufacturer instructions before using a generator to learn about safe usage like proper grounding.
  • Consult relevant federal, state, and local regulations to see if you need a permit.
  • Before you operate your generator, disconnect the regular source of power to your home. Hire a qualified electrician to install the correct equipment that meets local electrical codes, or ask your utility company to install an appropriate power transfer switch.
  • Use gas-powered generators only in well-ventilated outdoor areas. Always operate the generator outdoors and away from open windows and doors. NEVER operate it inside, including the basement, enclosed patio, or garage.
  • Store fuel for the generator in an approved safety can. Use the type of fuel recommended in the instructions or on the generator label.
  • Ask your local fire department if local laws restrict the amount of fuel you may store at your location. Store the fuel outside of living areas in a locked shed or other protected area. To guard against accidental fire, do not store it near a fuel-burning appliance, such as a natural gas water heater in a garage.
  • Inspect and maintain your generator regularly. Consider a maintenance contract that provides at least one service visit per year. Keep fresh fuel in the tank, and periodically run the generator to test performance.
  • Regularly monitor above-ground storage tanks, pipes, and valves for cracks and leaks and make any needed repairs immediately. Meet any regulatory requirements for tanks.
  • Keep the generator dry to avoid electrocution.
  • Be sure to turn the generator off and let it cool down before refueling. Gasoline spilled on hot engine parts could ignite.
  • Regularly start your generator even when there is not a power outage to ensure that it is working properly.

How to Install and Use a Portable Generator

  • Install electric carbon monoxide detectors with battery backups on each floor of your home, including outside each bedroom.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and use a portable generator only when needed for essential equipment.
  • Plug appliances directly into the generator, or use a heavy duty, outdoor-rated extension cord that is rated (in watts or amps) at least equal to the sum of the connected appliance loads. Check that the entire cord is free of cuts or tears and that the plug has all three prongs, especially a grounding pin.
  • Adopt an installed transfer switch or connect appliances directly to the generator.
  • Only connect individual appliances to portable generators and never plug a generator into wall outlets. Plugging generators into the home’s electrical system can feed electricity back into the power lines. Known as “backfeeding,” this practice puts utility workers, your neighbors, and your family at risk of electrocution.
  • Keep generators, gasoline-powered equipment and tools, grills, camp stoves, and charcoal-burning devices outdoors and away from doors, windows, and vents that could permit deadly carbon monoxide to come indoors.
  • Keep generators outside and at least 20 feet away from open windows so exhaust does not enter your or your neighbor’s home.
  • Never place a generator in your garage.
  • Keep the generator dry by operating it only on dry surfaces and when your hands are dry. Do not use the generator in wet or rainy conditions.
  • Store fuel for your generator in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place outside your house. Keep any fuel-burning appliances in specially designed containers, and fuel your generator outside.
  • Be sure to turn off and cool down your generator before refueling.

How to Install and Use a Standby Generator

  • Consult a licensed professional to assist with your selection and installation of a standby generator.
  • Choose a generator that is listed and approved by Underwriter’s Laboratories or a similar standards organization. Some jurisdictions require “air quality permits,” so consult a licensed electrician to identify the requirements in your area.
  • Install the generator outdoors near the incoming gas service, near the main electrical panel, or on a flat, level mounting area.
  • The recommended distance from your home to the generator depends on state and local building codes. A minimum of 20 feet is recommended.
  • Position the generator so that the exhaust does not blow on plants or other combustible materials. No plants, shrubs, or other ignitable materials are allowed within 1.2 meters (4 feet) of the exhaust end of the generator set.
  • Do not install the generator where exhaust gas could accumulate, seep inside, or draft into a building. Furnace and other similar intakes must be at least 10 feet from the exhaust end of the generator set.
  • Do not use the generator near open doors and windows.
  • Do not place the generator set near patios, decks, play areas, or animal shelters.
  • Do not install the composite mounting pad directly on grass, wood, or other combustible materials.
  • Clear all ignitable materials, including plants and shrubs, building materials, and lawn furniture from an area at least 4 feet beyond the exhaust end of the generator.
  • In flood hazard areas, place the generator and its control systems above the highest expected flood level.
  • In high wind areas, securely mount the generator to a concrete pad according to the mounting instructions in the installation manual.

Turning the power back on

Before your turn the power back on

  • Hire a licensed electrician to inspect your equipment before returning it to service if you have standing water or if any of your electrical components are, or were, submerged in water. Carefully evaluate your circuit breaker box to ensure it is not compromised or wet. Replace any wiring that came into contact with salt water.
  • Disconnect cord-connected appliances from their outlets until they have been inspected, repaired, and are certified by a qualified professional as safe for use.
  • Circuits with permanently affixed appliances like dishwashers should remain off until the circuits and appliances are certified as safe by a qualified professional.
  • Heating and mechanical equipment should be inspected by a qualified professional before returning to use if it has been in contact with any water.
  • Failing to inspect and certify appliances, equipment, and systems as safe to use can result in life-threatening shock or electrocution and destroy the equipment as well.

How to turn the power back on

  • If you are unfamiliar with your home’s electrical systems, contact your power company or a qualified electrician to make your home safe from electrical hazards.
  • Follow your power company’s advice and precautions.
  • Watch for loose or downed power lines and tree limbs or debris as they may hide an electrical hazard. Treat loose or downed power lines as if they are energized, and report them to the power company, police, or fire department immediately. Warn others of the loose or downed power lines.
  • Do not enter a wet or flooded area or building if the power is on.
  • If your exterior electrical service equipment has been flooded, have the local power company remove their metering equipment before you enter the building. Explosion, electrocution, or fire can occur if power is restored to flooded metering equipment.
  • Turn off electricity at the main breaker or fuse box, even if your community’s power is off. Do not turn the power off or on at the breaker box if you must stand in water to do so; call an electrician. After confirming that the power is off, leave it off until a licensed electrician can inspect and repair the electrical wiring or equipment and a building inspector approves the work.
  • Do not go into a flooded basement unless you are sure the electricity is off.
  • Do not connect generators used to power a house until after all compromised wiring has been disconnected or replaced.

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You can enhance your safety and comfort during and after an emergency or disaster by planning to be self-sufficient. By creating an emergency supply kit, you’ll be able to meet your basic needs for food, water, cash, medicines, and other supplies that will last for at least 72 hours.

Once you build and maintain your disaster supply kit, you have a way to meet your family’s basic needs during a difficult time. This also helps your community by allowing emergency officials and first responders to focus on those who cannot help themselves. Make sure to make your disaster preparedness plan and practice with your family.

Plan for two scenarios when building your disaster supply kit: remaining in your home or evacuating to a safer location.

Store items in airtight plastic bags, and use 1-2 portable containers for your whole kit.

Inventory on-hand supplies, and purchase any additional items. Building and maintaining your kit over time can help offset the cost.

Basic Disaster Supply Checklist

  • Cash: Banks and ATMs may not be open or available for extended periods
  • Water: At least one gallon per person per day for 3-7 days for drinking and sanitation
  • Food: Enough for 3-7 days, including non-perishable packaged or canned food and juices, food for infants and the elderly, snack food, manual can opener, vitamins, etc.
  • Meal supplies: Paper plates, paper cups, paper towels, and plastic utensils
  • Radio: Battery-powered radio and NOAA Weather Radio with extra batteries
  • Sleep: Sleeping bag, blankets, and pillows
  • Clothing: Seasonal clothes, rain/snow gear, and sturdy shoes
  • First-aid kit with medicines and prescription drugs
  • Toiletries: Hygiene items, moisture wipes, and sanitizer
  • Flashlight and batteries
  • Car and house keys
  • Toys, books, and games
  • Fire extinguisher
  • Whistle to signal for help
  • Dust mask to filter contaminated air
  • Wrench or pliers to turn off gas or utilities
  • Maps
  • Cell phone with chargers and a backup battery
  • Paper and pencils
  • Household chlorine bleach and medicine dropper to disinfect water
  • Glasses, contacts, and contact lens solution
  • Infant formula, bottles, diapers, wipes, and diaper cream
  • One week or longer supply of prescription medicines with a list of all medications, dosage, and any allergies
  • Copies of medical insurance and Medicare identification cards
  • In case of emergency (ICE) contact information for doctors, relatives, or friends to be notified if you are injured

See more about preparing emergency supply kits specifically for people with disabilities.

Pet Supplies Checklist

  • Pet food: At least a two-week supply of dry food in a water-tight container or canned food (include a manual can opener)
  • Water: At least a two-week supply of clean water; large dogs need one gallon per day
  • Portable carrier large enough for the pet to stand up, turn around, and lie down
  • Extra leash and collar or harness with an identification and rabies tag
  • Up-to-date health and immunization records
  • Two-month supply of medications like flea, tick and heartworm prevention
  • Toys, treats, and bedding (familiar items can help reduce stress for your pet)
  • Registration information, adoption papers, and vaccination documents: Discuss microchipping and enrolling your pet in a recovery database with your veterinarian.
  • First-aid kit, including cotton bandage rolls, bandage tape and scissors, antibiotic ointment, flea and tick prevention, gloves, isopropyl alcohol, saline solution, and a pet first aid reference book
  • Pet litter and litter box if appropriate, newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags, and household chlorine bleach
  • Picture of you with your pet to document ownership if you become separated: Add a note specifying your pet’s species, breed, age, sex, color, and distinguishing characteristics

Keep your disaster kit fresh

Remember to replace your stored food and water every six months. Dedicate one area of your cabinet or pantry to non-perishable food like peanut butter and jelly that you continuously replace.

  • Keep canned food in a cool, dry place.
  • Store boxed food in tightly closed plastic or metal containers.
  • Keep a supply of fresh batteries.
  • Use items and continually replace them to avoid expiration and waste.
  • Review your needs and update your kit annually.

Water supply is a top priority

Make your emergency water supply a top priority. Your requirements will vary depending on age, physical condition, activity, diet, and climate.

An active person needs at least two quarts of drinking water daily, so store at least one gallon of water per person per day for a minimum of three days. This amount will provide for drinking, cooking, and sanitary needs.

Children, nursing mothers, and people with health issues will need more. Keep in mind that high temperatures can double the required water amount.

Store your water in thoroughly washed plastic, fiberglass, or enamel-lined containers. Don’t use containers that can break (like glass bottles) and never use a container that has held toxic substances. Plastic containers like soda bottles work, and camping stores offer various containers.

Seal your water containers tightly and label and store them in a cool, dark place. Put a date on each container, and change stored water every six months.

Identify and gather important documents

Collect your household documents and create a photographic inventory of your household contents and valuables for an efficient insurance claims process.

  • Insurance papers
  • Medical records
  • Bank account numbers
  • Social Security cards
  • Deeds or mortgages
  • Birth and marriage certificates
  • Stocks and bonds
  • Recent tax returns
  • Wills and estate papers
  • Emergency or hotline contact information
  • Valuables and priceless personal items

Secure your documents in a safe place. Store paper copies in a fireproof and waterproof box or safe at home, in a bank safe deposit box, or with a trusted friend or relative. Keep electronic copies of important documents in a password-protected encrypted format on a removable flash or external hard drive in your fireproof and waterproof box or safe, or use a secure cloud-based service.

Store your disaster supply kit, documentation, and valuables in waterproof containers away from basements or other home locations that may flood.

Store multiple kits in multiple locations

A disaster can occur when you are at home, work, or traveling. Prepare a kit for your home, work, and all vehicles.

  • Home: Have this kit in one location that all family members know and can access.
  • Work: Prepare to shelter at work for at least 24 hours with food, water, and other needed items like medicines and comfortable walking shoes stored in a portable container.
  • Vehicle: Keep an emergency supply kit in your car.

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Your home’s shape and design has a lot to do with how it can resist an earthquake. New homes and existing homes can be modified to be more resistant to seismic forces.

What do I need to know?

  • Certain house locations, such as homes built on hillsides, can be more vulnerable.
  • Types of soils can amplify ground motions.
  • Houses built at the base of hills or mountains can be affected by landslides or rock falls
  • Houses with irregularities in wall layout or overall shape can be more susceptible to damage during earthquakes.
  • Cripple walls, the walls that support the main structure above grade or a basement, can be weak points if not designed and built properly.
  • Living areas above garages may need enhanced design due to the large opening of the garage door area.
  • Unbraced pier-and-post foundations, or unreinforced masonry walls or foundations, can be vulnerable aspects in a home.

Where do I start?

  • If you live in a mobile home, consider an earthquake-resistant bracing system.
  • Brace cripple walls and ensure that garages with living areas above can support the additional forces.
  • Consider the configuration of a home in new construction and story heights on any multi-story buildings.

More Resources

On International ShakeOut Day, you can join others worldwide and practice how to “Drop, Cover, and Hold On.” The ShakeOut takes place once a year on the third Thursday of October.

Endorsed by emergency officials and first responders, the safe response to an earthquake is to:

  • DROP where you are, onto your hands and knees. This position protects you from being knocked down and allows you to stay low and crawl to shelter if nearby.
  • COVER your head and neck with one arm and hand.
    • If a sturdy table or desk is nearby, crawl underneath it for shelter.
    • If no shelter is nearby, crawl next to an interior wall (away from windows).
    • Stay on your knees; bend over to protect vital organs.
  • HOLD ON until the shaking stops.
    • Under shelter: hold on to it with one hand; be ready to move with your shelter if it shifts.
    • No shelter: hold on to your head and neck with both arms and hands.

To take part in the ShakeOut, register for free at www.ShakeOut.org. Once registered, you will receive regular information on planning your drill and becoming better prepared for earthquakes and other disasters.

For resources and more information regarding the Great ShakeOut, visit www.ShakeOut.org.

The Southern California Earthquake Center, NEHRP Earthquake Consortia and States, the Federal Emergency Management Agency, and dozens of other partners coordinate the Great ShakeOut.

Why do they matter?

Because most gas and water lines are rigid, they can be torn from their connection points during an earthquake. Damaged gas and water lines can injure you and others and damage your property. A broken gas line is especially serious because of its potential to start a fire or cause an explosion.

What do I need to know?

  • One way to prevent broken gas and water lines is to have flexible connection pipes installed between appliances and their supply lines.
  • The same method can be used for other appliances, such as a hot water heater, clothes dryer, stove, or gas furnace.
  • Provide a flexible connection between any external fuel tanks and the supply line and where the supply line enters the house.

Where do I start?

  • Changes to the gas lines and plumbing in your property must be done by a licensed contractor, who will ensure that the work is done correctly and according to all applicable codes. This is important for your safety.
  • A flexible connection will help protect against a small amount of movement but is not designed to function when the appliance it is connected to moves extensively or falls. You should also consider anchoring the appliance to the floor or wall.

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Why does it matter?

Equipment such as heating, air conditioning, satellite dishes, or solar collectors mounted on the roof of a home or other elevated areas pose a risk during an earthquake due to their weight and mass. Preventing these elements from breaking loose can avoid damage and injury, and also help with recovery after an earthquake as these systems can remain operational. Additionally, anchoring these items makes them more resistant to high winds.

What do I need to know?

  • Improperly or unanchored mechanical equipment can slide, tilt, overturn, or fall.
  • These items may be damaged by shaking, or they may be crushed by other fallen components.
  • Failed large mechanical equipment may fall or otherwise damage structural elements.
  • While vibration isolation is used to ensure the proper day-to-day operation of equipment in preventing vibrations, this equipment is particularly vulnerable to earthquake damage. Standard springs used for isolation do not have adequate capacity to resist shear and uplift forces.

Where do I start?

  • Although a general rule of thumb is to anchor larger equipment, its a best practice to securely anchor ALL items attached to rooftops or other locations where they can become dislodged and cause other problems.
  • Look for equipment that has been shake table tested and is rated for seismic loading.
  • Ask about seismic load ratings and seismic anchorage details when you purchase any new equipment such as air conditioning units.
  • Ensure connections of fuel lines, electrical lines, optical cable, piping, or ductwork are correctly secured to avoid damage.
  • Install flexible connections for fuel lines, piping, and electrical lines where they connect to rigidly mounted equipment.
  • Elevated, ceiling-mounted, or rooftop units require special considerations. These units are typically mounted on curbs or platforms to enhance waterproofing and flashing.
  • Curbs upon which rooftop equipment is mounted may be custom-built on site or pre-manufactured. Seismic restraints for the curbs must include the connection between the equipment and the curb, and the attachment of the curb and the roof framing. Also, the curb must be sufficiently strong. If the equipment is internally isolated, increase the design forces for the anchorage appropriately.
  • Many of these retrofits will require a licensed contractor to perform due to their complexity and access to hard-to-reach areas such as rooftops or ceilings.
  • Install some means of bumpers or vendor-supplied restraints in systems with vibration dampeners.

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Why does it matter?

Earthquakes may move fuel tanks. When a fuel tank falls, fire or an explosion is possible. Even when a tank remains on its legs, the shaking of an earthquake can break the supply line connection and escaping gas can cause a fire. Similar risks exist with smaller, compressed gas cylinders, which are often stored inside a house or garage.

Anchor your fuel tank to avoid serious threats to you, others, your property, public safety, and the environment.

What do I need to know?

  • Anchor and brace propane tanks and compressed gas cylinders to prevent damage to them during an earthquake.
  • Some compressed gas cylinders cannot be permanently anchored because they have to be periodically replaced. But you can use chains or straps to attach them to a wall so that they will remain upright.
  • Provide a flexible connection between the fuel tank and the supply line, and where the supply line enters the house. Only a licensed contractor should add a flexible connection to a propane tank line for your safety and the security of your property.

Where do I start?

  • Before you alter your fuel tank in any way, make sure that the tank is your property and not rented from the gas supplier.
  • If you prefer not to do this work yourself, you can have a contractor anchor your tank.
  • Clear the area around the tank to ensure that there are no tall or heavy objects that could fall on the tank or break the supply line connection.
  • Store a wrench near the shutoff valve and ensure your family knows how to turn off the supply line if they smell a gas leak.
  • On larger tanks, consider installing a seismic shutoff valve that will automatically turn off the gas by closing the valve during an earthquake.
  • If you wish to secure a compressed gas cylinder or other such tank to a wall, use two lengths of chain around the cylinder: one just below the top of the cylinder and one just above the bottom. Attached the chains to eye hooks that are screwed into the wall structure. In wood-frame walls, the eye hooks must be long enough to penetrate the wall and the studs behind it. In concrete or masonry block walls, install the eye hooks with epoxy, expansion anchors, or toggle bolts.

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Why does it matter?

The contents of your home can be as dangerous as the structure itself during an earthquake, or even more prone to cause you or your family injury. This is especially true of items that hang on the walls such as artwork or other interior decorations.

What do I need to know?

During an earthquake the following household items can become dangerous:

  • Framed pictures and mirrors not securely attached to walls can fall, and broken glass that may result increases the potential for injury.
  • Objects such as framed photos and other items hung on walls can become falling and flying hazards during a seismic event.

Where do I start?

  • Mirrors, picture frames, and other hanging items should be secured to the wall with closed hooks or earthquake putty. Do not hang heavy objects over beds, sofas, or any place you may be seated.
  • The number of eye-hooks needed for a picture or mirror depends on its size and weight. Large pictures and mirrors are more stable when mounted on two hooks rather than one.
  • Make sure that eye-hooks penetrate both the wall and the studs behind it. Use eye-hooks at least 1 to 2 inches long.
  • For both picture wire and closed eye-hooks on the back of the picture or mirror, ensure the mounting hardware is securely attached to the frame.

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Why does it matter?

The contents of your home can be as dangerous as the structure itself during an earthquake, and may be even more prone to cause harm to you or your family. Any unsecured objects that can move, break, or fall as an earthquake shakes your home are potential safety hazards and property losses. During an earthquake, large pieces of furniture can fall on you or others and block exits which could prevent you from escaping. Anchoring furniture so that it remains in place can prevent injuries and protect your home and its contents.

What do I need to know?

During an earthquake the following household items can become dangerous:

  • Cabinet doors can fly open allowing contents to crash to the floor.
  • Objects such as books, lamps, and other items on shelves and tables can become flying hazards.

Where do I start?

  • Install latches on cabinet doors to prevent them from opening and spilling out their contents.
  • Secure your water heater, refrigerator, and other major appliances with the appropriate straps screwed into the wall studs or masonry to help keep them from falling over and rupturing gas or electric connections.
  • Support ceiling fans and light pendants with the use of bracing wire secured to a screw eye embedded at least an inch into the ceiling joist.
  • Secure heavy furniture like bookcases, china cabinets, and entertainment centers with flexible fasteners and make sure they are away from beds, sofas, desks, or other places where people sit or sleep.
  • Furniture can be anchored with metal “L” brackets and screws along its top or sides (either inside or outside of the furniture) with screws through its back or with nylon strapping.
  • Ensure anchoring screws penetrate not just the wall, but the studs behind it too. Screws only in drywall or plaster will pull out.
  • Before anchoring a bookcase with screws through its back, ensure the back is sturdy and securely attached to the sides, top, and bottom. Some bookcases have backs of very thin materials, held in place with small screws or staples that can easily pull out. Those bookcases should be anchored with brackets.
  • Consider connecting two or more bookcases or file cabinets that sit next to each other to one another and the wall. This can increase the stability of the bookcases or file cabinets.
  • If possible, move all bookcases, file cabinets, and other large pieces of furniture away from exits so that if they do fall, they won’t prevent you from escaping.
  • To prevent the contents of your bookcases from falling out, you can install a thin metal or plastic wire, a wood dowel or even an elastic guardrail across the front of each shelf.
  • Keep the tops of your bookcases free of heavy items, especially if they are located near beds or desks, where persons could be injured from falling items.
  • Electronics such as computers, televisions, and microwave ovens are heavy and expensive to replace. Store them on lower shelves and secure them with flexible nylon straps.
  • Ensure that plumbers have installed flexible connectors on all gas appliances.
  • Strap the top and bottom of a water heater using heavy-gauge metal strapping secured to wall studs.
  • Locate your gas shutoff valve and ensure you know how to turn off the gas supply to your home with the use of a suitable wrench.

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Secure your water heater, refrigerator, and other major appliances with the appropriate straps screwed into the wall studs or masonry to help keep them from falling over and rupturing gas or electric connections.

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Why do they matter?

Balconies and decks are attractive features of a home, but they also add to the weight and earthquake loads during an earthquake.

What do I need to know?

There are three things to focus on when evaluating your balconies or deck’s resistance to earthquakes:

  • The effect of additional floor area
  • Anchorage for earthquake loads on your home
  • Vertical support

Additional floor area

  • The addition of a balcony or deck creates additional weight and increases the earthquake load on your home. Consider the added loads if a balcony or deck was not part of your original house design.
  • Balconies and decks can concentrate the added earthquake load on one side of the house and one braced wall line. This can contribute to rotational behavior and concentrations of damage.
  • Balconies extending more than 6 feet past the exterior house wall typically require engineered design.
  • For larger balconies and decks, consider separating the balcony or deck from the home by providing a gap to permit independent movement of the balcony or deck.

Anchorage for earthquake loads on your home

  • If your balcony or deck is laterally supported by your house, adequate connection to the house is key to good earthquake performance
  • Ensure that your balcony or deck is adequately fastened to the floor sheathing or floor framing, and that there is blocking where the cantilever bears on the exterior wall.

Vertical support

  • Vertical load connections and moisture and decay are two important considerations related to the vertical support of decks and balconies.
  • A history of deck collapses in the U.S. has proven that inadequate connection between the house and the deck is a serious concern. Make sure that your vertical load connections are sufficient.

Where do I start?

  • Visually inspect your balcony or deck to determine its condition. If you are unsure of its condition, consult an engineer to determine its structural stability.
  • Ensure all handrails and stairs are structurally strong and in good condition.
  • Ongoing maintenance of balconies and decks is important to maintaining their structural integrity.
  • Design the joints of exterior decks so that moisture will not collect in the connection area.
  • If a new balcony or deck is to be added to the home, consult an engineer to ensure it is earthquake-resistant.

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