Guaranteeing you’re adequately insured and protected before a disaster is critical. You can start by checking your coverage options, property definitions, and the extent of coverage available. Options will vary by state, company, and product.

Here’s everything you need to know about your choices of home insurance for disasters.

The Four Coverage Categories

Insurance companies define four coverage categories for your home:

1. Dwelling: The structure of your home is considered a covered property. It is referred to in the policy as the “dwelling.”
2. Other structures: Structures separate from your home or linked by a fence, wire, or other forms of connection are referred to in the policy as “other structures.” Examples include tool sheds or detached garages.
3. Personal property: Your belongings and the contents of your home are referred to in the policy as “personal property.” It includes, but is not limited to, appliances, clothing, electronics, and furniture. Not all personal property is covered. Some items may have coverage limits or are covered under different forms of insurance. Examples include, but are not limited to, money, jewelry, and firearms.
4. Loss of use: When a dwelling becomes uninhabitable due to a covered disaster, the cost of additional living expenses are covered and defined as “loss of use.” Loss of use coverage reimburses living expenses, up to a stated limit, that the insured incurs to maintain a normal standard of living after a covered loss.

“Open Perils” and “Named Perils” Coverage

A peril, as referred to in an insurance policy, is a cause of damage that results in an insured loss of property, such as fire or theft. Coverage can be provided on an “all perils” (open perils) basis or a “named perils” basis. Named perils policies list what is covered by the policy and are generally more restrictive. All perils policies list what is excluded from coverage. A dwelling policy usually provides coverage for both the dwelling and its contents on a named perils basis. A homeowners policy usually provides coverage for the dwelling on an all perils basis and coverage for the contents on a named perils basis.

Package vs. Peril-Specific Coverage

A package policy provides coverage for multiple, but usually not all, perils. A homeowners policy is a package policy that provides coverage for fire, lightning, extended coverages, and personal liability. Extended coverage includes coverage for windstorm, hail, explosion, riot, civil commotion, aircraft, vehicles, smoke, vandalism, malicious mischief, theft, and breakage of glass. Some policies, such as earthquake or flood policies, provide coverage for specific perils that are often excluded in package policies. Fire and water damage from an earthquake may be covered by a standard homeowners policy.

It is important to consider what additional perils you may face and verify what is covered by your specific policy. Consult with your insurance company about perils you may face and what perils are covered by your policy.

Does My Policy Cover That?

1. Earthquakes: Most property insurance policies exclude coverage for losses resulting from earthquakes (although they often cover losses related to fires following earthquakes), so separate policies are typically required for earthquake coverage. Some states with risk of loss from earthquakes have government-mandated insurance plans that provide earthquake coverage to property owners who are unable to obtain insurance through the voluntary market.
2. Flood: Most property insurance policies exclude coverage for flood losses. You must purchase a flood policy to be covered for losses caused by a flood. (For a more comprehensive discussion of flood insurance, see Preparing for a Flood.)
3. Hail: Most property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from hail. Hail is a named peril. For coverage to apply under a “named perils” policy, hail must be listed as a covered peril. However, hail is generally included under the broader peril of windstorm. Windstorm coverage includes hail, hurricanes, tornadoes, and straight-line winds. There may be instances where coverages and deductibles apply to only one of these perils, for example, hurricanes, and not to all windstorms.
4. Hurricanes: Most property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from hurricanes under the windstorm coverage, although flood loss associated with hurricanes is excluded. (See Preparing for a Flood for more information.) Most states with risk of loss from hurricanes have government-mandated insurance plans that provide windstorm coverage to property owners who are unable to obtain insurance through the voluntary market.
5. Tornadoes: Most property insurance policies consider tornadoes a covered peril, although they do not cover losses resulting from the peril of flood. (See Preparing for a Flood for more information.) While tornadoes may not be specifically mentioned as a covered peril, tornado losses are one event covered under the windstorm peril.
6. Wildfires: All property insurance policies provide coverage for losses resulting from fires. Depending on the level of exposure, you may need to consider a higher deductible to obtain coverage or keep it affordable. Most states have coverage available via a Fair Access to Insurance Requirements (FAIR) plan or a Joint Underwriting Association (JUA) if the voluntary market is not willing to provide coverage.

How Much Coverage Do I Need?

Depending on the type of policy, dwelling coverage options could include replacement cost coverage, actual cash value, special payment, functional replacement cost or market value coverage, or stated value.

The settlement of a loss will vary depending on the coverage you select when you purchase your policy.

1. Replacement cost coverage: Replacement cost is he current cost to replace the damaged property, with no reduction for depreciation of the damaged property. It is not the market value or the tax-assessed value of the property.
2. Actual cash value: Actual cash value is the cost to replace the damaged property reduced by an allowance for depreciation.
3. Special payment: Special payment is distributed before a damaged dwelling is repaired, rebuilt, or replaced.
4. Functional replacement cost or market value coverage: Functional replacement cost or market value (also known as repair cost) is the cost to repair or replace the damaged property with equivalent construction for similar use without deduction for depreciation (e.g., replacing a plaster wall with drywall). If it is a total loss and repairs are not made, the payment amount will be the market value of the home.
5. Stated value: Stated value coverage is the value of the policy, which is the maximum amount paid at the time of loss, even if the loss amount is larger than the value of the policy. A selected value is established by the insured, and this value is the limit of liability.

Personal Property Coverage Choices

Depending on the type of policy, personal property coverage options could be replacement cost coverage or actual cash coverage, as explained above.

What Is the Insurance-to-Value Ratio?

Insurance-to-value ratio is the relationship of the amount of insurance purchased to the replacement value of the property. It is important to have an accurate assessment of the replacement cost value of your home. If you don’t and then experience a loss, the cost to replace your home may be more than your insurance policy will provide and you would be responsible for covering the difference. Major catastrophes, such as earthquakes, hurricanes, and wildfires, often can create a demand surge for materials and labor, resulting in increased costs to replace damaged property. Consider the effect of such surges when establishing the appropriate replacement cost for your property.

Most property policies have a coinsurance penalty, which requires that your property be insured to at least 80% of the replacement cost or loss payments will be reduced by a proportion of the insured value to 80% of replacement value.

It is also important to realize that other coverage limits within your policy are set as a percentage of the dwelling coverage amount. For example, the limit of coverage for your personal property will usually be at 50% of the dwelling limit. Additional coverage is available via endorsement and is typically increased if you purchase replacement cost coverage for your contents.

Replacement Cost Coverage

In order to qualify for replacement cost coverage, you will most likely be required to insure your property to at least 80% of the replacement cost. If this requirement is met and you have a total loss, your insurance policy will cover the total cost of replacing your home. If the property is not insured to at least the 80% value, then the payment for partial losses may be reduced. For a total loss to be paid, the property should be insured at 100% of the replacement cost.

Additional Limits in the Case of a Total Loss

Many insurance companies offer an endorsement that provides full coverage to replace your property in the event of a total loss. Usually, the company requires that the property be insured to at least 100% of the replacement cost in order to qualify for this additional coverage. As long as this requirement is met, if you have a total loss and it costs more to replace than your limit (due to a misestimate or demand surge), the coverage under your insurance policy will be increased accordingly. The amount of the increase depends on the endorsement purchased and can range from 25% to 100%.

Additional and Optional Coverage

Additional coverage may be included in your policy. One example is a building code upgrade, which provides 10% coverage for upgrades required by the community to meet building codes when a home is being repaired or rebuilt as a result of a covered loss. Optional coverage for perils, such as earthquake insurance, may be available to purchase to supplement your policy.

More Resources

FLASH and The Actuarial Foundation. If Disaster Strikes, Will You Be Covered? A Homeowner’s Insurance Guide to Natural Disasters.

Once you and your family are prepared, consider extended family members or friends who are especially vulnerable during disasters. Pay special attention to folks with financial limitations and seniors.

You can help your broader community before, during, and after disasters by volunteering. Find an organization in your community, and participate in a class, training, or discussion. Affiliate with the organization before disaster strikes.

Local nonprofits, faith-based organizations, schools, and civic groups are all great places to begin your search. There are many ways to help your community, including delivering food to older adults or organizing your own community project. Consider any special skills you may be able to offer.

Get training in CPR and basic first aid, as well as other hazard-specific training. A financial contribution or gift to a recognized nonprofit disaster relief organization is always an effective way to support disaster recovery, and even small amounts can make a big difference.

Here are some options to get you started to support community disaster resilience:

• Join your local Community Emergency Response Team (CERT) program. CERT programs are typically sponsored, affiliated, or created in partnership with a local fire department, law enforcement agency, or emergency management agency. Get CERT trained in basic disaster response skills, such as fire safety, light search and rescue, team organization, and disaster medical operations.
• Find a volunteer opportunity with your state’s Voluntary Organizations Active in Disaster (VOAD). National VOAD is an association of organizations that mitigate and lessen the impact of disasters.
• Don’t forget the crucial role youth play in disaster preparedness. Get resources to integrate children and youth into family and community disaster preparedness.

When preparing for a disaster, ask yourself: “Where will I be safe?” Is it a room in your home? Is it a nearby school or other commercial building? Is it a family member’s or friend’s home outside of the disaster zone? Once you answer this question and discuss it with your family, you will have a shelter plan that increases survival, reduces stress, and enhances comfort.

Plan for Evacuation

The best ways to plan for evacuation vary based on the type of disaster and whether it is safe to shelter in your home. Local officials declare when a mandatory evacuation will occur, and sometimes they may suggest, but not require, evacuations.

Prepare to evacuate

• Determine alternate routes and several modes of transportation out of your area.
• Review at least two exit routes from your home or neighborhood to the designated meeting place for your family.
• Identify several places — in different directions from your home — to go in an emergency or during an evacuation.
• If you have a car, keep it in good working condition with a full gas tank and a portable disaster supply kit.
• Evacuate in one car per family to reduce congestion and delay.
• If you do not have a car, make transportation arrangements with family, friends, or your local government in case you must evacuate.
• Develop a household plan to maintain contact and reunite if separated.
• Don’t forget about your pets. If you cannot take them with you, identify a place that will accept pets, as most public shelters allow only service animals.
• Pack your bags. After a disaster, you may not be able to return to your home for some time. Make sure to bring your disaster supply kit, including essential documents and valuables.

Decide when and how to evacuate

• Evacuate if government officials instruct you to do so.
• Determine how you will evacuate. Evacuation may be on foot, depending on the type of disaster.
• Always prioritize evacuation routes identified by authorities.

For a flood

• If you’re told to evacuate due to flooding, do so immediately.
• Drive only on roadways that are not flooded. Six inches of moving water can knock you over, and one foot of moving water can sweep your vehicle away.

For a hurricane

• Prepare to leave if your home is not built to withstand a hurricane.
• Prepare to leave if you live in a storm surge evacuation zone.
• Find your evacuation zone and determine your route before a storm comes.
• Evacuate promptly according to your evacuation zone and follow the evacuation route(s).
• Evacuate immediately as you may not be able to evacuate if you delay too long.
• Identify a safe location to shelter after evacuation before a hurricane threatens.

For a tsunami

• If you are in a tsunami area, protect yourself from the earthquake first.
• Move to a safe place as high and as far inland as possible after the shaking ends if there are signs of a tsunami — like a quickly rising flood, a wall of water, sudden draining, a roar, or a warning siren.
• Crawl if you can reach better cover, but do not go through an area with more debris.

For a wildfire

• Know your community’s evacuation plans.
• Identify several potential exit routes and follow the evacuation routes.
• Evacuate if you’re told to do so. Wildfires may result in extremely hazardous driving conditions, making it difficult or impossible to escape.
• Use N95 masks to avoid breathing harmful particles.

Evacuating when there’s extra time

• Unplug electrical equipment, but do not unplug freezers and refrigerators unless there is a risk of flooding.
• Shut off water, gas, and electricity if your home is damaged or officials advise.
• Close and lock all doors and windows.
• Share evacuation plans with your out-of-state contact in your family disaster plan.
• Wear sturdy, protective shoes and clothing, such as long pants, long-sleeved shirts, and a hat.
• Check on others who may need transportation.
• Take actions depending on your location, the predictions for weather conditions, and guidance from local authorities.
• Take your pets with you, but know that most public shelters may only permit service animals. Plan ahead how to care for your pets.
• Be on the lookout for road hazards, and do not drive into flooded areas.

Plan to Find Shelter

Sheltering in place

Depending on the circumstances, you may need to stay in your current location by sheltering in place.

When deciding where to shelter, identify the safest place in the building based on the peril you’re facing. You may only need to shelter for a short time, such as during a tornado warning, or for a long time, such as during a winter storm.

• Stay in your shelter until authorities say it’s safe to leave.
• Take turns listening to radio broadcasts and maintain a 24-hour safety watch.
• During extended periods of sheltering, manage water and food supplies to ensure you and your family have the supplies and quantities you need.

During a tornado

• Take shelter in a safe room or certified shelter. If neither is available, take refuge in a basement or the lowest level interior room away from corners, windows, doors, and outside walls.
• Go to the lowest floor that won’t flood if flooding is possible.

During a flood

• Consider similar safe locations if you have not evacuated. See safety during a flood and hurricane for more information.

During an earthquake

• Drop where you are, cover, and hold on. See safety during an earthquake for more information.

During a tsunami

• Follow the steps above for evacuating during a tsunami. See safety during a tsunami for more information.

During a winter storm

• Locate an indoor heated space to shelter in.
• Plan for a potential power outage by locating your nearest shelter.
• Follow safety precautions like monitoring carbon monoxide levels. See safety during a winter storm for more information.

During an extreme heat event

• Take shelter in an indoor, air-conditioned space.
• Plan for a potential power outage by locating your nearest shelter.
• Follow safety precautions like monitoring carbon monoxide levels.

During a hail storm

• Stay indoors until the storm has passed, and stay away from skylights, windows, and doors. Don’t go outside to protect your property.

During lightning

• If thunder roars, go indoors! Once inside, avoid doors and windows.
• If you are outdoors, avoid water, high ground, open spaces, and metal objects.
• Shelter in a large building or vehicle with closed windows. Do not lean on the doors.
• If you cannot get indoors, crouch down with your feet together and place your hands over your ears to minimize hearing damage from the thunder. Stay at least 15 feet away from other people. See safety during lightning for more safety tips during lightning.

Evacuating to a public disaster shelter

• Take your disaster supply kit with the supplies you need.
• Cooperate with shelter officials, and remember that alcoholic beverages and weapons are prohibited.

Install a Safe Room or Storm Shelter

The best safety protection in high winds and tornadoes is a safe room or storm shelter. A safe room that meets FEMA P-320 or FEMA P-361 guidance or a storm shelter that meets the ICC 500 standard provides near-absolute life safety protection.

Evacuation and Shelter for People with Disabilities

As one of the more vulnerable groups, people with disabilities need special consideration before disaster strikes. If you, your family, friends, or neighbors have access or functional needs, planning now will enhance safety and comfort when it matters the most.

Drugstores, medical facilities and accessible shelters may not be operational or reachable during disasters, so take steps to ensure you have necessary supplies and accommodations.

For all people with disabilities

• Establish a personal support network of family, friends, and neighbors who can help during an emergency and get you to a safe place. Maintain a contact list in your disaster kit, and make sure your network knows where you store your emergency supplies. Share a key to your home with someone in your network.
• Maintain a supply of all the items that you will need for 3–5 days. First responders and emergency personnel may not be able to reach you immediately after a disaster.
• Use the Considerations for People with Disabilities During a Power Outage checklist to ensure you have the things you need in the event of a power outage.
• Stock up on extra prescription drugs, over-the-counter medicines, and medical supplies. If you have allergies or other chemical or environmental sensitivities, keep cleaning supplies, masks, and other necessary items on hand.
• Consult with your doctors and assistance organizations to develop a backup plan so you have uninterrupted services.
• Keep extra wheelchair batteries, oxygen, catheters, medication, food for guide or hearing-ear dogs, etc.
• Maintain a current list of the type and serial numbers of all medical devices.
• Clearly label your assistive devices with your name and contact information.
• Install specialty fire safety devices in the home, such as fire extinguishers and smoke alarms with a vibrating pad or flashing light. Consider installing a strobe light alarm outside of your home to alert neighbors. Test alarms and extinguishers regularly. Replace smoke alarm batteries every six months.
• If you live in an apartment building, ask the management to mark all available, accessible exits.
• Keep a flashlight, whistle or bell handy to signal your location to others.

For those with a communication disability

• Include documentation of your contact information and preferred method of communication in your emergency kit.
• If you use assistive technologies, plan how you will evacuate with the devices or replace equipment if lost or destroyed. Be sure to save your model and device information.

For those who are deaf or hard of hearing

• Obtain extra batteries and a spare charger for hearing aids, cochlear implants and other personal assistive listening devices. Create a record of where you got your hearing aids and the batteries they need.
• If you cannot use a TV, radio or computer, plan for how to receive emergency information.
• Secure and use a specialty NOAA Weather Radio for Deaf and Hard of Hearing with an adaptive weather alert system.
• Determine if your mobile phone includes alerting capabilities that signal an emergency using lights and vibrations.
• Keep an analog amplified or captioned telephone in your emergency supply kit.

For those with a mobility disability

• If you use a power wheelchair, store a lightweight manual wheelchair for backup. Know your wheelchair’s weight and size, and if it is collapsible. If your wheelchair or scooter tires are not puncture-proof, keep a patch kit or sealant and an extra inner tube for flat tires.
• Show others how to operate your wheelchair.
• Purchase an extra battery for a power wheelchair or other battery-operated medical or assistive technology devices. Keep extra batteries on a trickle charger at all times. Note that agencies, service organizations or local charitable groups may be able to help you purchase a spare battery.
• Keep an extra mobility device such as a cane or walker. If you use a seat cushion, take it with you if you evacuate. Have an escape chair if you live or work in a high-rise building.

For those with a visual disability

• Have a talking, Braille or large-print timepiece with extra batteries. Keep model and background information for any assistive technology devices you use (white canes, CCTV, text-to-speech software, etc.).
• Have a backup plan to communicate. Consider using laminated cards with phrases, pictures or pictograms. Keep Braille/text communication cards for two-way communication.

Evacuation for people with disabilities

• Identify accessible transportation methods for evacuation or getting to a medical clinic. Work with local services, public transportation or paratransit to identify all options.
• Plan how you will contact emergency personnel/first responders regarding your evacuation needs.
• Contact your local emergency management agency and register for lists that identify people with access and functional needs that require evacuation assistance.
• Always carry emergency health information and emergency contacts. Wear a medical alert tag or bracelet. Store important information on a flash drive or mobile device. Make hard copies for easy transport in the event of an evacuation. Have your medical professionals update your medical plan every time they make changes in your treatment or care.
• If you need life-sustaining treatment, such as dialysis, identify more than one potential facility.
• Medical shelters are only appropriate for those with acute health care needs who would otherwise be hospitalized. Contact your emergency management office to assess how local shelters can provide for those with access and functional needs.

Plan for children with disabilities

• Make plans for children with access and functional needs and others who may have challenges in unfamiliar or chaotic environments (e.g., those with PTSD).
• Consider handheld electronic devices with movies and games (with extra batteries or chargers and headphones), sheets and twine or a small pop-up tent, and snacks and toys.

Plan for financial stability

• If you receive Social Security or other regular benefits, consider switching to electronic payments as disasters can interrupt mail service for days or weeks. Your options may include a direct deposit to your bank account or the Direct Express® prepaid debit card. Get more information on going paperless with your benefits.

More Resources

• FEMA Ready. Evacuation.
• FEMA Ready. Shelter. www.ready.gov/shelter
• FEMA Ready. Tsunamis.
• FEMA Ready. Wildfires.
• FEMA Ready. Individuals with Disabilities.
• FLASH. #HurricaneStrong.
• FLASH. #TornadoStrong.

Where will your family or household be when disaster strikes? If you are not together when an emergency happens, will everyone know how to stay in contact — even if cell towers are down and phones don’t work? Do you have a meeting place and will everyone have a way to get there?

To develop a family disaster plan, start by mapping out contact methods and meeting places. Then share and practice your plan with your family or household and out-of-town contact. While you develop your plan, keep in mind these specific household needs:

• Ages of household members
• Medical needs like prescriptions and equipment
• Disabilities or access and functional needs
• Dietary needs
• Pets or service animals
• Languages spoken

After you make your plan, all you need to do is revisit and communicate your plan regularly so you’re ready when disaster strikes.

Build your plan

• Write it down.
  • Create a document with the contact information for your family, close friends, designated out-of-town contact, employers, and other service providers like doctors, schools, etc.
• Plan to communicate.
  • Plan how to communicate with family or friends when disaster strikes.
  • Discuss the benefits of calling, texting, emailing, or using social media. Texting tends to work more reliably than calling, especially when systems are in high demand.
  • Determine how your family will receive emergency updates and alerts.
• Choose a meeting place.
  • Pick two places to meet your family or household members.
  • Meet outside your home in case of a sudden emergency or at a friend’s or neighbor’s house in case you can’t return home.
  • Ensure that these places are reachable for those with access and functional needs and that your pets are welcome.
  • Share the address and phone number for each of your meet-up locations.
  • Add the information to your phone’s contacts and list them in your plan.
• Plan to evacuate.
  • If an evacuation is necessary, determine where you will evacuate and how you will get there.
  • If you plan to shelter-in-place, identify the safest location in your home to shelter during a disaster.
• Identify emergency contact(s).
  • Ask an out-of-town family member or friend to be your emergency contact.
  • Ensure everyone in your household knows the contact’s name, location, phone number, email, and any social media contact options.
• Schedule a meeting.
  • Set a meeting with your household to talk about the types of disasters and hazards you might face.
  • Work together and share responsibilities as a team.

Know your plan

Send links to your disaster plan and make copies for all family or household members and emergency contacts. Post a copy in a prominent place in your home like a bulletin board.

Practice the plan

Regularly gather your family or household members to review and practice your plan. Discuss what information you would communicate during a disaster and send practice messages. Make sure all family members (including children) understand how and when to call 911.

Update your communication plan at least once a year or whenever information changes.

Special Considerations for Families with Children

A natural disaster is often devastating for adults, but children can be especially vulnerable to stress and anxiety when disaster strikes. Prepare your children before a disaster and plan activities to keep them busy during and after an emergency.

Getting kids involved in the planning process and letting them plan activities will distribute the workload and give your family a sense of control.

Preparing Your Children for Disasters

• Learn what types of emergencies are possible where you live, teach your children about them, and discuss the steps you’ve taken to protect your family and home.
• Discuss emergencies that may require evacuation, such as a hurricane, and shelter-in-place emergencies, such as a tornado.
• Include your children when creating your family communication plans and building a disaster supply kit.
• Have a disaster drill and practice your plan, making sure to give your children a role and way to participate.
• Prepare fun, kid-friendly activities and games to keep them occupied. Choose games that they do not ordinarily play, so they have something special to enjoy.
• Select activities that do not require power so you can conserve your batteries and back-up power sources.

More Resources

• FEMA. Create Your Family Emergency Communication Plan.
• Ready. Make a Plan.
• Ready. Kids.

Pets are cherished family members, so it’s essential to plan for their safety and comfort as a part of your comprehensive family disaster plan.

Take inventory of your supplies and review all records periodically so your pet can be safe and cared for during any disaster.

Consider these options for your pet’s location during a disaster.

• Take your pet with you to a friend’s or family member’s house or a hotel outside the threat zone. Make arrangements ahead of time to avoid last-minute surprises and confusion.
• Keep your pet with you in a secure, storm-prepared shelter location. Find evacuation shelters that accept pets ahead of time. While many shelters will accept pets, some can only accommodate service animals or certain types of pets like dogs.
• Leave your pet with a friend in a safe zone or make boarding arrangements with a veterinary clinic or kennel. Talk to the kennel about advance registration and requirements like shots.
• Create a safe, quiet, and comfortable space in your home for your pet. Never leave them alone or behind.

Keep your pet prepared at all times.

• Portable carrier (large enough for the pet to stand up and turn around)
• Extra leash, collar and ID tag
• Pet food: At least 2 weeks of dry food in a water-tight container or canned food (include a manual can opener)
• Water: At least 2 weeks of clean water (large dogs need 1 gallon per day)
• Up-to-date health and immunization records
• Medications (flea and tick preventative, a two-month supply of heartworm prevention medication, all prescription medications)
• Litter/newspapers for clean-up
• Toys and treats
• Towels
• First aid supplies
• A recent photo of you with your pet

How to prepare large animals for a disaster

Prepare your large animals such as horses, cattle, sheep, goats, or pigs before a disaster using the following tips from FEMA:

• Ensure all animals have some form of identification.
• Evacuate animals whenever possible. Map out primary and secondary routes in advance.
• Make vehicles and trailers needed for transporting and supporting each type of animal available. Make sure experienced handlers and drivers are also available.
• Ensure destinations have food, water, veterinary care, and handling equipment.
• If evacuation is not possible, animal owners must decide whether to move large animals to shelter or turn them outside.

Take the extra time to observe livestock, looking for early signs of disease and injury. Severe cold-weather injuries or death primarily occur in the very young or in animals that are already debilitated.

Animals suffering from frostbite don’t exhibit pain. It may be up to two weeks before the injury becomes evident as the damaged tissue starts to slough away. At that point, treat the injury like an open wound, and consult a veterinarian.

Make sure your livestock has the following to help prevent cold-weather problems:

• Plenty of dry bedding to insulate vulnerable udders, genitals, and legs from the frozen ground and frigid winds.
• Windbreaks to keep animals safe from frigid conditions.
• Plenty of food and water

More Resources

• Ready. Pets and Animals.

Nearly every home is susceptible to power outages caused by disasters. Some disruptions last for days, even weeks. Electrical power loss can create unhealthy and unsafe living conditions or building damage.

Taking steps to prepare before a power outage is the best way to maintain your family’s comfort and avoid danger, costly losses, or damage to your home. Learning how to protect food, prevent mold growth, safely use generators, prevent carbon monoxide poisoning, and avoid house fires when power returns are all essential parts of your power outage preparedness plan.

Evaluate and secure different backup power options ranging from small backup batteries and solar charging options to portable or standby generators with an automatic switch.

Before a Power Outage

Prepare for a power outage

• Keep a disaster supply kit handy with water, nonperishable foods, medicine, printed copies of essential documents, baby supplies, pet food, and more.
• Maintain a supply of cash as ATMs may not operate, and businesses and restaurants may be unable to accept debit or credit cards.
• Maintain a supply of flashlights, batteries, hand-crank cell phone chargers, battery, and solar-powered radios.
• Identify an alternative power supply for any family members who are dependent on electric medical equipment.
• Consider purchasing a portable generator and learn how to use and ventilate it safely before an outage occurs.
• Consider purchasing and installing a standby home generator with an automatic switch.
• Keep your landscape trimmed and clear of dead or weak branches to prevent power loss from downed trees and limbs.

Consider evacuation needs

• Keep your gas tank full or nearly full at all times as gas stations rely on electricity to power their pumps. If you use your car to charge your devices, never leave it running inside a garage, partially-enclosed space, or near a home.
• If your garage door opener is electric, know how to locate and use the manual release lever. Understand that you may need help to lift the garage door due to weight. If you ordinarily enter your home through the garage, make sure you have an alternate way and key to enter if the garage door won’t open.
• Learn about state or local emergency plans detailing the closest cooling and warming shelters. If the temperature is extremely hot or cold outside and the power outage is expected to last for a long time, consider relocating temporarily to a site with heating or air conditioning.

Protect electronics

• Back up your computer files and operating systems regularly. Consider extra batteries and a power converter for your laptop.
• Turn off all appliances and electronic devices when they’re not in use to protect them from power surges.
• Use a high-quality surge protector for all high-value electronics. If you use a computer frequently, consult your local computer equipment dealer about an uninterruptible power supply (UPS).
• If your telephone requires electricity, such as a cordless phone or answering machine, plan alternate communication options, including a regular telephone handset, cell phone, radio, or pager.
• Ask remote service providers if they have backup power systems and how long those systems will operate. Some voicemail systems and remote computer dial-up servers may not work if power is out in their location, even if your power is uninterrupted.

Plan for people with disabilities

• If you need electricity to operate medical equipment in your home, plan with your doctor, health care provider or local emergency management office.
• Charge devices and extra batteries to maintain power to your equipment during electric outages.
• Contact your power company if you use oxygen or mechanical ventilation. Find out what you can expect in a power outage.
• Sign up for automatic power company alerts to stay aware of planned or unplanned power outages and power restoration.
• Plan how you will maintain power during an outage if you cannot be without it. Consider using a backup battery, a generator, solar energy or other alternate electrical resources. Consider how you will keep your medications refrigerated.

During and After a Power Outage

• Keep your use of electricity minimal by practicing energy conservation measures to help power companies avoid imposing rolling blackouts.
• Use sewage check valves and backflow preventers on your home to guard against contamination. Electrical power loss can have many secondary effects, including compromised water and sewage systems.
• Use flashlights and rechargeable lamps instead of candles during a power outage. Candles present a fire risk when first responders may be unable to reach you.
• Turn off any electrical equipment that was in use before the power outage, but leave one light on to alert you when power resumes.
• Check on elderly neighbors, friends, or relatives who may need assistance if the weather is severe during the outage.
• During a power outage, resist the temptation to call 911 for information. Use radios, online news sources, or social media channels for updates.
• Be careful when driving through intersections as traffic lights may not be working.
• Once your power is restored, wait a few minutes before turning on major appliances to avoid problems caused by a sharp increase in demand.

Practice food and water safety

During or after a power outage or disaster, your food may no longer be safe to eat. Take precautions to prevent food spoilage, and know when you should dispose of refrigerated food. Food that has not been refrigerated can spoil quickly and cause severe health problems, so you should take all steps to keep it safe. Here’s how the following steps to extend the shelf life of your refrigerated food:

• Turn your refrigerator or freezer to the coldest setting before the power goes out.
• Keep a supply of nonperishable foods, medicine, baby supplies, and pet food on hand.
• Prepare one gallon of water per person per day for at least three days.
• Fill plastic containers with water, leaving about an inch of space in the container, and store them in your refrigerator or freezer as space allows. Storing this water will help keep food cold during a power outage.
• Keep one or more coolers with ample ice to keep your food cold in case a power outage is prolonged. Avoid storing perishable foods above 40℉ for more than two hours.
• Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed. If the door is closed, items in a refrigerator will keep for up to four hours. If the door is closed, items in a full freezer will stay frozen for about two days, and in a half-full freezer for about one day.
• Use a refrigerator thermometer to check temperature. For proper food storage, refrigerated or frozen foods should be kept at 40° F or below. Discard any perishable refrigerated foods that have been above 40° F for more than two hours.
• Discard any food with an unusual odor, color, or texture. Remember: “When in doubt, throw it out.”
• Food exposed to wildfire can be unsafe from the heat of the fire, smoke fumes, and chemicals used to fight fire.

How to Safely Use a Generator

You can also make your home resilient to power loss by using a combination of power generation options from basic to sophisticated. Then you can provide backup power for lighting, food preservation, limited air conditioning, prevention of mold growth on interior finishes, and much more.

Consult a licensed, professional electrician to evaluate your generator purchase options. Two kinds of generators can generate emergency power in your home: permanently installed standby or “whole house” generators, and temporary, portable generators.

Ensure your generator is properly ventilated. Improperly ventilated generators can cause deadly carbon monoxide fumes to build up. The fumes are odorless and are often fatal.

• Understand the primary hazards to avoid when using a generator: carbon monoxide
• (CO) poisoning from the toxic engine exhaust, electric shock/electrocution, and fire.
• Follow manufacturer instructions before using a generator to learn about safe usage like proper grounding.
• Consult relevant federal, state, and local regulations to see if you need a permit.
• Before you operate your generator, disconnect the regular source of power to your home. Hire a qualified electrician to install the correct equipment that meets local electrical codes, or ask your utility company to install an appropriate power transfer switch.
• Use gas-powered generators only in well-ventilated outdoor areas. Always operate the generator outdoors and away from open windows and doors. NEVER operate it inside, including the basement, enclosed patio, or garage.
• Store fuel for the generator in an approved safety can. Use the type of fuel recommended in the instructions or on the generator label.
• Ask your local fire department if local laws restrict the amount of fuel you may store at your location. Store the fuel outside of living areas in a locked shed or other protected area. To guard against accidental fire, do not store it near a fuel-burning appliance, such as a natural gas water heater in a garage.
• Inspect and maintain your generator regularly. Consider a maintenance contract that provides at least one service visit per year. Keep fresh fuel in the tank, and periodically run the generator to test performance.
• Regularly monitor above-ground storage tanks, pipes, and valves for cracks and leaks and make any needed repairs immediately. Meet any regulatory requirements for tanks.
• Keep the generator dry to avoid electrocution.
• Be sure to turn the generator off and let it cool down before refueling. Gasoline spilled on hot engine parts could ignite.
• Regularly start your generator even when there is not a power outage to ensure that it is working properly.

How to Install and Use a Portable Generator

• Install electric carbon monoxide detectors with battery backups on each floor of your home, including outside each bedroom.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and use a portable generator only when needed for essential equipment.
• Plug appliances directly into the generator, or use a heavy duty, outdoor-rated extension cord that is rated (in watts or amps) at least equal to the sum of the connected appliance loads. Check that the entire cord is free of cuts or tears and that the plug has all three prongs, especially a grounding pin.
• Adopt an installed transfer switch or connect appliances directly to the generator.
• Only connect individual appliances to portable generators and never plug a generator into wall outlets. Plugging generators into the home’s electrical system can feed electricity back into the power lines. Known as “backfeeding,” this practice puts utility workers, your neighbors, and your family at risk of electrocution.
• Keep generators, gasoline-powered equipment and tools, grills, camp stoves, and charcoal-burning devices outdoors and away from doors, windows, and vents that could permit deadly carbon monoxide to come indoors.
• Keep generators outside and at least 20 feet away from open windows so exhaust does not enter your or your neighbor’s home.
• Never place a generator in your garage.
• Keep the generator dry by operating it only on dry surfaces and when your hands are dry. Do not use the generator in wet or rainy conditions.
• Store fuel for your generator in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place outside your house. Keep any fuel-burning appliances in specially designed containers, and fuel your generator outside.
• Be sure to turn off and cool down your generator before refueling.

How to Install and Use a Standby Generator

• Consult a licensed professional to assist with your selection and installation of a standby generator.
• Choose a generator that is listed and approved by Underwriter’s Laboratories or a similar standards organization. Some jurisdictions require “air quality permits,” so consult a licensed electrician to identify the requirements in your area.
• Install the generator outdoors near the incoming gas service, near the main electrical panel, or on a flat, level mounting area.
• The recommended distance from your home to the generator depends on state and local building codes. A minimum of 20 feet is recommended.
• Position the generator so that the exhaust does not blow on plants or other combustible materials. No plants, shrubs, or other ignitable materials are allowed within 1.2 meters (4 feet) of the exhaust end of the generator set.
• Do not install the generator where exhaust gas could accumulate, seep inside, or draft into a building. Furnace and other similar intakes must be at least 10 feet from the exhaust end of the generator set.
• Do not use the generator near open doors and windows.
• Do not place the generator set near patios, decks, play areas, or animal shelters.
• Do not install the composite mounting pad directly on grass, wood, or other combustible materials.
• Clear all ignitable materials, including plants and shrubs, building materials, and lawn furniture from an area at least 4 feet beyond the exhaust end of the generator.
• In flood hazard areas, place the generator and its control systems above the highest expected flood level.
• In high wind areas, securely mount the generator to a concrete pad according to the mounting instructions in the installation manual.

Turning the power back on

Before your turn the power back on

• Hire a licensed electrician to inspect your equipment before returning it to service if you have standing water or if any of your electrical components are, or were, submerged in water. Carefully evaluate your circuit breaker box to ensure it is not compromised or wet. Replace any wiring that came into contact with salt water.
• Disconnect cord-connected appliances from their outlets until they have been inspected, repaired, and are certified by a qualified professional as safe for use.
• Circuits with permanently affixed appliances like dishwashers should remain off until the circuits and appliances are certified as safe by a qualified professional.
• Heating and mechanical equipment should be inspected by a qualified professional before returning to use if it has been in contact with any water.
• Failing to inspect and certify appliances, equipment, and systems as safe to use can result in life-threatening shock or electrocution and destroy the equipment as well.

How to turn the power back on

• If you are unfamiliar with your home’s electrical systems, contact your power company or a qualified electrician to make your home safe from electrical hazards.
• Follow your power company’s advice and precautions.
• Watch for loose or downed power lines and tree limbs or debris as they may hide an electrical hazard. Treat loose or downed power lines as if they are energized, and report them to the power company, police, or fire department immediately. Warn others of the loose or downed power lines.
• Do not enter a wet or flooded area or building if the power is on.
• If your exterior electrical service equipment has been flooded, have the local power company remove their metering equipment before you enter the building. Explosion, electrocution, or fire can occur if power is restored to flooded metering equipment.
• Turn off electricity at the main breaker or fuse box, even if your community’s power is off. Do not turn the power off or on at the breaker box if you must stand in water to do so; call an electrician. After confirming that the power is off, leave it off until a licensed electrician can inspect and repair the electrical wiring or equipment and a building inspector approves the work.
• Do not go into a flooded basement unless you are sure the electricity is off.
• Do not connect generators used to power a house until after all compromised wiring has been disconnected or replaced.

More Resources

• FEMA Ready. Power Outages.
• To prepare your business or organization for a power outage, download the free Ready Business Power Outage Toolkit to kickstart your planning.

You can enhance your safety and comfort during and after an emergency or disaster by planning to be self-sufficient. By creating an emergency supply kit, you’ll be able to meet your basic needs for food, water, cash, medicines, and other supplies that will last for at least 72 hours.

Once you build and maintain your disaster supply kit, you have a way to meet your family’s basic needs during a difficult time. This also helps your community by allowing emergency officials and first responders to focus on those who cannot help themselves. Make sure to make your disaster preparedness plan and practice with your family.

Plan for two scenarios when building your disaster supply kit: remaining in your home or evacuating to a safer location.

Store items in airtight plastic bags, and use 1-2 portable containers for your whole kit.

Inventory on-hand supplies, and purchase any additional items. Building and maintaining your kit over time can help offset the cost.

Basic Disaster Supply Checklist

• Cash: Banks and ATMs may not be open or available for extended periods
• Water: At least one gallon per person per day for 3-7 days for drinking and sanitation
• Food: Enough for 3-7 days, including non-perishable packaged or canned food and juices, food for infants and the elderly, snack food, manual can opener, vitamins, etc.
• Meal supplies: Paper plates, paper cups, paper towels, and plastic utensils
• Radio: Battery-powered radio and NOAA Weather Radio with extra batteries
• Sleep: Sleeping bag, blankets, and pillows
• Clothing: Seasonal clothes, rain/snow gear, and sturdy shoes
• First-aid kit with medicines and prescription drugs
• Toiletries: Hygiene items, moisture wipes, and sanitizer
• Flashlight and batteries
• Car and house keys
• Toys, books, and games
• Fire extinguisher
• Whistle to signal for help
• Dust mask to filter contaminated air
• Wrench or pliers to turn off gas or utilities
• Maps
• Cell phone with chargers and a backup battery
• Paper and pencils
• Household chlorine bleach and medicine dropper to disinfect water
• Glasses, contacts, and contact lens solution
• Infant formula, bottles, diapers, wipes, and diaper cream
• One week or longer supply of prescription medicines with a list of all medications, dosage, and any allergies
• Copies of medical insurance and Medicare identification cards
• In case of emergency (ICE) contact information for doctors, relatives, or friends to be notified if you are injured

See more about preparing emergency supply kits specifically for people with disabilities.

Pet Supplies Checklist

• Pet food: At least a two-week supply of dry food in a water-tight container or canned food (include a manual can opener)
• Water: At least a two-week supply of clean water; large dogs need one gallon per day
• Portable carrier large enough for the pet to stand up, turn around, and lie down
• Extra leash and collar or harness with an identification and rabies tag
• Up-to-date health and immunization records
• Two-month supply of medications like flea, tick and heartworm prevention
• Toys, treats, and bedding (familiar items can help reduce stress for your pet)
• Registration information, adoption papers, and vaccination documents: Discuss microchipping and enrolling your pet in a recovery database with your veterinarian.
• First-aid kit, including cotton bandage rolls, bandage tape and scissors, antibiotic ointment, flea and tick prevention, gloves, isopropyl alcohol, saline solution, and a pet first aid reference book
• Pet litter and litter box if appropriate, newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags, and household chlorine bleach
• Picture of you with your pet to document ownership if you become separated: Add a note specifying your pet’s species, breed, age, sex, color, and distinguishing characteristics

Keep your disaster kit fresh

Remember to replace your stored food and water every six months. Dedicate one area of your cabinet or pantry to non-perishable food like peanut butter and jelly that you continuously replace.

• Keep canned food in a cool, dry place.
• Store boxed food in tightly closed plastic or metal containers.
• Keep a supply of fresh batteries.
• Use items and continually replace them to avoid expiration and waste.
• Review your needs and update your kit annually.

Water supply is a top priority

Make your emergency water supply a top priority. Your requirements will vary depending on age, physical condition, activity, diet, and climate.

An active person needs at least two quarts of drinking water daily, so store at least one gallon of water per person per day for a minimum of three days. This amount will provide for drinking, cooking, and sanitary needs.

Children, nursing mothers, and people with health issues will need more. Keep in mind that high temperatures can double the required water amount.

Store your water in thoroughly washed plastic, fiberglass, or enamel-lined containers. Don’t use containers that can break (like glass bottles) and never use a container that has held toxic substances. Plastic containers like soda bottles work, and camping stores offer various containers.

Seal your water containers tightly and label and store them in a cool, dark place. Put a date on each container, and change stored water every six months.

Identify and gather important documents

Collect your household documents and create a photographic inventory of your household contents and valuables for an efficient insurance claims process.

• Insurance papers
• Medical records
• Bank account numbers
• Social Security cards
• Deeds or mortgages
• Birth and marriage certificates
• Stocks and bonds
• Recent tax returns
• Wills and estate papers
• Emergency or hotline contact information
• Valuables and priceless personal items

Secure your documents in a safe place. Store paper copies in a fireproof and waterproof box or safe at home, in a bank safe deposit box, or with a trusted friend or relative. Keep electronic copies of important documents in a password-protected encrypted format on a removable flash or external hard drive in your fireproof and waterproof box or safe, or use a secure cloud-based service.

Store your disaster supply kit, documentation, and valuables in waterproof containers away from basements or other home locations that may flood.

Store multiple kits in multiple locations

A disaster can occur when you are at home, work, or traveling. Prepare a kit for your home, work, and all vehicles.

• Home: Have this kit in one location that all family members know and can access.
• Work: Prepare to shelter at work for at least 24 hours with food, water, and other needed items like medicines and comfortable walking shoes stored in a portable container.
• Vehicle: Keep an emergency supply kit in your car.

More Resources

• Ready. Build A Kit.
• Ready. Individuals with Disabilities.
• FEMA. Safeguard Critical Documents and Valuables.

Quickly changing weather and environmental conditions demand careful attention. You can stay safe by staying aware of the latest disaster events in your community in a variety of ways, including those that operate without electric power.

No matter how you receive your updates and alerts, make sure you choose more than one method so you have a backup plan during any emergency.

What You Can Do Right Now

Purchase a NOAA Weather Radio receiver with backup battery power. NOAA Weather Radio from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration is a nationwide, 24-hour radio station network that broadcasts continuous weather information like forecasts, watches, warnings and all-hazard updates, such as earthquakes or environmental events like chemical releases or oil spills.

NOAA Weather Radio is commercial-free but requires a specific receiver or scanner that is widely available for as little as $30. You may need an external antenna if you are more than 30 miles from the nearest transmitter.

The nationwide Emergency Alert System can deliver wireless emergency alerts to your devices. In addition to NOAA Weather Radio and the Emergency Alert System, you also may be covered by a community-level emergency alerting system.

If your government alerting system uses landline telephones, but you do not have one, you may still be able to connect your mobile devices to Enhanced Telephone Notification systems like Reverse 911© and text messages. Strobe lights, pagers, computers, and text printers can be connected for the visually and hearing-impaired, as well.

Download your state or local emergency management agency app and the FEMA app. Enable text message alerts (message and data rates will apply).

Look for updates from official local government and emergency management agencies and utility providers on their websites and social media to stay current before, during, and after a disaster.

Sign up for listservs and emergency alerts from your workplace, school, houses of worship, or other community organizations that provide notifications during an emergency.

What to Do During Extreme Weather

Monitor weather forecasts frequently using apps, devices, government alerting services, radio/television news, and social media. Always keep your cell phone charged and activate location settings that allow weather-related apps to follow and alert you no matter where you go.

No matter how you plan to receive emergency alerts, listen to broadcasts and check online every 30 minutes during emergencies to stay current on the latest updates and essential instructions.

More Resources

• FEMA Ready. Get Tech Ready.
• FEMA Ready. Emergency Alerts.
• FEMA Ready. Be Smart. Take Part. Know Your Alerts and Warnings.
• NOAA. NOAA Weather Radio All Hazards.

Why does it matter?

Sandbags can be useful in redirecting stormwater, and debris flows away from your home. But be sure that the sandbags are properly filled and maintained.

What do I need to know?

• There are limits to what sandbags can do: sandbags will not seal out water.
• Sandbags deteriorate when exposed to continued wetting and drying for several months.
• If bags are placed too early, they may not be effective when needed.
• Sandbags are for small water flow protection: up to two feet. Protection from larger flow requires a more permanent flood prevention system.
• The filing and placing of sandbags is strenuous work and requires time and planning.

Where do I start?

• When lifting sandbags, use your knees and not your back.
• Wear gloves to protect your hands.
• Fill sandbags one-half full. Use sand if readily available, otherwise use soil.
• Fold the top of the sandbag down and rest the bag on its folded top.
• Do not tie the sandbag closed as untied bags form a tighter seal when stacked among other bags.
• Take care in stacking the sandbags.
• Lay a plastic sheet between the bags and the building to control the flow and prevent water from seeping into sliding glass doors.
• Limit sandbag placement to three layers unless you use a building as a backing or sandbags are placed in a pyramid.
• Tamp each sandbag into place, completing each layer before starting a new layer.
• Clear a path between buildings for debris flow.
• Consult with your local environmental protection department before disposing of used sandbags. Sandbags that are exposed to contaminated floodwaters may pose an environmental hazard and require special handling.

More Resources

• FEMA. Flood Response for CERTs.

Getting Gutters Hurricane Ready

A working gutter system with properly placed downspouts and drains will direct rainfall away from your home’s foundation to prevent flooding, erosion, and water buildup. However, your gutters will only perform if they are well-maintained and free of leaves and debris. An annual gutter inspection to look for holes, rust spots, or broken supports along with routine cleaning will ensure that your gutters are ready when heavy rains come.

Assemble Your Tools and Hardware

What you will need for this project:

• Eye protection
• Waterproof Gloves
• Garden hose
• Specialty hose nozzle
• Rags or paper towels
• Gutter scoop
• Bucket with metal hook
• Ladder

Keep These Important Considerations in Mind

• Safety is the #1 concern when working on your gutters. Do not attempt to clean or repair your gutters from on top of your roof. Only try this DIY project if you live in a one-story house. Do not attempt it at all if you have a two-story home.
• Clean your gutters while standing firmly on a sturdy stepladder. Always use a tall enough ladder that gets you high enough to reach your gutters without having to stand on the top two steps. Work with a partner to hold your ladder.
• Inspect your gutters as you clean. Look for corrosion, holes, leaking joints, or loose, missing, or bent hangers. Mark problem areas with masking tape so you can find those spots quickly.
• Dry, loose leaves and small twigs can be removed with a handheld blower. Some blowers have attachments, especially for that purpose, but removing them manually works too.
• Inspect and clean your gutters twice a year in the spring and fall. If you can only do it annually, plan for after leaves finish dropping in the fall.

Instructions for Cleaning and Repairing Your Gutters

1. Wear eye protection and sturdy, waterproof gloves to protect yourself from debris and scratches. Place a gutter scoop, garden trowel, small hand broom, and rags in a bucket with a metal hook that can attach to your ladder with a wire hook.
2. Start cleaning a stretch of gutter at the downspout area. This is where debris usually collects, blocking the water’s path to the downspout. Work your way along the length of the gutter, putting the collected debris into a bucket.
3. After you are done cleaning, flush your gutters with a garden hose. The water flow will tell you how well the gutters are draining and reveal any areas that are holding water. Standing water in gutters, downspouts, or near drains keep them from draining, so consider placing sand, pebbles, or rocks in compact soil areas that won’t drain. Call a professional for an estimate if you cannot fix the problem.
4. Consider installing protective gutter guards or screens to decrease the amount of debris that collects in your gutters, downspouts, and drains.

Why does it matter?

According to the Insurance Information Institute, flooding is the most common and costly natural disaster in the United States, causing billions in economic losses each year. The National Flood Insurance Program states that 90 percent of all United States natural disasters involve flooding, making it essential to do all you can to prevent damage. Your yard and landscape are the best places to start.

What do I need to know?

Where it rains, it can flood. However, you can design your yard to help prevent damage by directing water away from your home and foundation with berms and culverts, planting suitable species to absorb water, and using landscape materials that allow water to flow through to the ground.

Where do I start?

• Encourage water to divert away from your home by taking advantage of any existing ditches or depressions.
• Dig small channels or add soil mounds or berms to route water in the preferred direction where it can empty in a safer area on your property.
• Plant native species with deep roots that tolerate wet soil in a garden at least ten feet away from your home in an area that tends to hold water. These plants will help absorb the excess water.
• Install gutter and downspout diverters to carry water away so that heavy rains do not dump water too close to your home and foundation. Keep your gutters and downspouts clean and debris-free to ensure steady water flow.
• Build up natural barriers with grasses and plants if your house is located by a hill or slope.
• Landscape with pervious materials such as gravel or grass and paver combinations to allow water to absorb more easily into the ground.
• Consider building a retaining wall with stone or brick to redirect water to areas with tolerant plants away from your home.

More Resources:

• Contact your local county or community extension office to learn about the best plants to use in your landscape.

Why does it matter?

High wind events like hurricanes and tornadoes as well as fast-moving floodwaters or tsunamis can move or dislodge fuel tanks causing a threat to you, your family, and others. Take action today to keep your fuel tank in place.

What do I need to know?

• An unanchored tank can damage your home or other structures when the supply line comes loose, causing fuel spills, contamination, and even fire.
• If your tank is buried underground, water saturation can push it to the surface.
• One of the most effective fuel tank anchoring methods is an attachment to a concrete slab with sufficient weight to withstand the force of floodwaters or high winds. Tanks located outside can also be anchored by running straps over it and using turnbuckles to attach them to the concrete slab.
• See FEMA. Anchor Fuel Tanks for more details on these methods.

Where do I start?

• Keep floodwaters out of the tank by extending all filling and ventilation tubes above the 100-year Base Flood Elevation (BFE) or expected flood level.
• Shut off all connections once flood watches and warnings are issued.

More Resources:

• FEMA. Anchor Fuel Tanks.

Why do they matter?

You may have heard the term hydrostatic vent, or more commonly, flood vent. These vents allow flood water to pass through walls and equalize the standing water pressure known as hydrostatic pressure on each side of a wall. If the vents are not present to allow the water to pass through and the pressure to equalize, the wall could be knocked over from the weight and force of the water only on one side.

What do I need to know?

• These vents or openings allow the entry and exit of floodwaters.
• The term vent can be slightly confusing as it does not have to be an actual mechanism and can just be an open hole in the wall. Mechanical style vents are sometimes used to make the opening more aesthetically pleasing as well as provide a means of automatic opening and closing to prevent insect entry. Some vents are insulated to prevent cold air from entering the vented areas.
• The openings must be installed BELOW the expected flood level to be effective.
• The goal is to allow water to enter and exit the structure at roughly the same rate to maintain equal exterior and interior hydrostatic pressures on the wall.

Some basics on hydrostatic vents

• Hydrostatic vents allow the flood waters to pass through the walls without causing hydrostatic pressure on the walls.
• Vents are calculated by having one square inch of vent space per one square inch of floor area.
• Vents can only be used in the parts of your home that you don’t live in, such as the garage, storage areas, or crawlspace.
• The vents must have the bottom of the vent installed within one foot of the adjacent grade, and they must be installed in at least two different walls.
• The vents work automatically and therefore cannot have any covers over them unless the covers work without manual assistance.
• Verification of the hydrostatic vents is done by a professional surveyor and reported on the Elevation Certificate (EC). The EC provides information such as the number and location of the vents and the total number of vented space in square inches, installed on the home.
• The installation of hydrostatic vents may provide some flood insurance savings.

Where Do I Start?

• Contact your local floodplain manager to determine if there are any special considerations in the local floodplain ordinance where you live for the use of hydrostatic vents.
• A licensed contractor can install flood vents in your home following the prescribed calculations; however, you will need a licensed surveyor to provide you with an Elevation Certificate (EC) that documents the number of vents and square area covered. Your local floodplain manager can provide more information regarding the EC.

More Resources:

• FEMA. National Flood Insurance Program Elevation Certificate and Instructions.
• FEMA 259, Engineering Principles and Practices of Retrofitting Flood-prone Residential Structures.
• FEMA P-312, Homeowner’s Guide to Retrofitting 3rd Edition (2014).
• FEMA 551, Selecting Appropriate Mitigation Measures for Floodprone Structures.
• FEMA. Technical Bulletin 7, Wet Floodproofing Requirements (1993).

Why do they matter?

When you think about flooding, you probably think about water coming in from outside your home. But during flood events, floodwater can also enter your home through the wastewater plumbing system designed to carry sewage out of your home. When flooding occurs, sewage systems can be overwhelmed, pushing sewage from sanitary sewer lines to back up through drain pipes. These backups cause damage and create health hazards.

What do I need to know?

Backflow valves can block the flow of sewage backup. Consider the following when installing backflow valves:

• Installing a backflow preventer valve and system is an affordable way to prevent expensive damage inside your home. Professional installation can cost an average of $350.00 for a simple system.
• Valves have different complexities, tightness of the seals, and ease of use.
• Gate valves are usually complex and require hand operation, whereas flap or check valves are simple and allow flow out and close automatically when the flow reverses. Note that flap or check valves are not as tight as gate valves, and require periodic testing. Many municipalities require annual testing.
• Other valves combine gate and flap valves into one design.
• All pipes that run from your home or that are connected to equipment or appliances below potential flood levels need valves. This includes washing machine drain lines, laundry sinks, fuel oil lines, rain downspouts, sump pumps, and sewer/septic connections.

Where Do I Start?

• Contact a licensed plumber to determine the best method for your plumbing system. Ensure you schedule an annual checkup to ensure your backflow preventer system works when you need it most.

More Resources:

• FEMA. Valves Can Prevent Costly, Hazardous Sewage Backup.
• FEMA. Install Sewer Backflow Valves.
• FEMA P-499, Home Builder’s Guide to Coastal Construction.

Why does it matter?

Electrical system components, including service panels (fuse and circuit breaker boxes), meters, switches, and outlets, are easily damaged by flood water. If they are flooded, even for short periods, they will probably need to be replaced. The potential for fires from shorted circuits in flooded systems is a serious problem. Raising electrical system components helps protect electrical system components from damage. And having an undamaged, operating electrical system after a flood will help you clean up, make repairs, and return to your property with fewer delays.

What do I need to know?

• All components of the electrical system, including the wiring, all switches, and receptacles, should be raised at least 1 foot above the 100-year flood level (BFE or required freeboard levels).
• In an existing home, elevating the electrical system will require the removal of some interior wall sheathing (ex: drywall). It is easier to elevate the electrical system if you are repairing a flood-damaged home or building a new home.
• If your home’s electrical system was affected by a flood, DO NOT energize and use the system until it can be inspected by a licensed electrician. Electrical systems do not “dry out” after being inundated by flood water as damage may have occurred.

Where Do I Start?

• Electrical system modifications must be done by a licensed contractor to ensure that the work is done correctly and according to all applicable building codes. This is important for your safety.
• Your contractor should check with the local power company about the maximum height for raising the electric meter. Some power companies now use smart meters that can be read remotely.
• If your home has an old-style fuse box or low-amperage service, consider upgrading to a modern circuit breaker system and higher-amperage service, especially if you have large appliances or other electrical equipment that draws a lot of power.
• You may also want to elevate electric service lines (where they enter your home) at least 12 inches above the projected flood elevation.

More Resources:

• FEMA. Protect Your Home from Flooding, Low-Cost Projects You Can Do Yourself.
• FEMA P-312, Homeowner’s Guide to Retrofitting 3rd Edition (2014).
• FEMA P-55, Coastal Construction Manual: Principles and Practices of Planning, Siting, Designing, Constructing, and Maintaining Residential Buildings in Coastal Areas.

Why does it matter?

It can flood anywhere it can rain, so it’s important to protect your major appliances from any water that could enter your home. Even if your appliances are in the garage or exterior portions of the home, you can protect them by simply elevating them above the expected levels of flood waters.

What do I need to know?

• Just a few inches of water can permanently damage many appliances.
• Flood water is not clean water.
• Several hours of inundation can permanently affect the internal components of items such as washers, dryers, furnaces, and air conditioning equipment.
• Appliances that may need protection from flood water include:
  • Washers & Dryers
  • HVAC equipment
  • Water heaters
  • Electrical panels and electrical service components, such as switches and receptacles
  • Telephone, computer, and communications equipment

Where do I start?

Interior items

• Determine what the potential flood water elevation is for your area by finding your flood zone and Base Flood Elevation (BFE).
• Elevated appliances, such as those in the list above, by at least one foot above the expected flood level.
• Items can be elevated on masonry or platforms made from other flood-resistant materials, such as pressure-treated lumber graded for that purpose.
• Specially designed stands for components, such as water heaters, can be purchased directly. These are specifically designed for the desired elevation height and expected weight of the water heater.
• Another option is to relocate appliances to higher levels of the home outside of the depth of potential flood waters.
• Some items, such as HVAC components, can be mounted on walls or suspended from ceiling joists if the unit is designed for such mounting and the walls or ceiling is strong enough. Consult a mechanical contractor to determine this type of relocation.
• Consider contacting a licensed electrician to elevate any electrical switches or receptacles above potential flood levels as the inundation of even these secondary components can affect the entire electrical system.

Outside Equipment

• Outside air conditioning compressors, heat pumps, or package units (single units that include a furnace and air conditioner) can be placed on a base made of masonry, concrete, or pressure-treated lumber. Ensure all work conforms to applicable building codes.
• In new construction, outdoor equipment will often have to be placed at the Base Flood Elevation (BFE), including any local freeboard requirements as part of the permitting and inspection process.
• Elevation of outdoor equipment can also be achieved by having the components mounted on the side of your home. Consult an engineer to determine how best to do this as some components can be heavy and require special designs to carry the weight.
• Be sure to anchor mounted, elevated exterior appliances to secure them against any high winds they might experience. Learn more about anchoring fuel tanks.
• Install sewer backflow valves to prevent sewage entry into your home during flooding.
• Do not overlook your landscape. Observe how water flows around your home and use culverts and landscaping to ensure it flows away from your foundation.

More Resources

• FEMA. Protect Your Home from Flooding, Low-Cost Projects You Can Do Yourself.
• FEMA P-312, Homeowner’s Guide to Retrofitting 3rd Edition.
• FEMA P-55, Coastal Construction Manual: Principles and Practices of Planning, Siting, Designing, Constructing, and Maintaining Residential Buildings in Coastal Areas.

Outside in the Yard

• Evaluate and consider where the water flows in and around your house on a rainy day. Redirect it away from your foundation by making sure your gutters, downspouts and splash blocks (trays) are moving water away, not towards, the foundation.
• Make sure all water flow mechanisms (gutters, downspouts, splash blocks) are clear of debris and properly aligned to direct water away from your home.
• Check culverts and make sure that they are clear of yard debris so storm drains can handle water flow. Properly dispose of yard waste so that it does not become windborne debris.
• Modify your landscape with berms to help direct water flow away from your home.
• Sandbags can redirect stormwater and debris flow away from homes and other structures if they are properly filled, placed, and maintained. Remember to follow these steps so they do not fail to protect your home.
  • Fill sandbags one-half full.
  • Use sand if readily available, otherwise, use local soil.
  • Fold the top of sandbag down and rest bag on its folded top.
  • Take care in stacking sandbags by limiting placement to three layers unless a building is used as a backing or sandbags are placed in a pyramid.
  • Tamp each sandbag into place, completing each layer prior to starting the next layer.
  • Clear a path between buildings for debris flow.
  • Lay a plastic sheet in between the building and the bags to control the flow and prevent water from seeping through openings like sliding glass doors.
  • Sandbags will not seal out water.
  • Sandbags deteriorate when exposed to continued wetting and drying for several months. If bags are placed too early, they may not be effective when needed.
  • Sandbags are for small water flow protection – up to two feet. Protection from larger flow requires a more permanent flood prevention system.
  • Wet sandbags are very heavy, and caution should be used to avoid injury.
  • NOTE: Consult your local environmental protection department before disposing of used sandbags. Sandbags exposed to contaminated floodwaters may pose an environmental hazard and require special handling.
• As possible, elevate any outside appliances on platforms to prevent damage, but only do so if a licensed professional is available to assist.

Inside Your Home

• Inspect your first floor for items that can be moved to higher floors or spaces. For example, roll up area rugs and place them upstairs or on counters to keep them dry.
• Unplug, bag, and move electronics to higher ground. Anything that can be bagged in sealable plastic bags and moved to a higher location can be potentially spared.
• Place appliances like washers and dryers on bases or concrete blocks to elevate them and prevent damage.
• In the average home, 2” of water can cause over $26,000 in damage and 4” can cause $40,000 in damage. Use this floodsmart.gov calculator widget to learn more. (https://www.floodsmart.gov/costOfFlooding/index.html)

In the Garage

• If you have more than one vehicle, move one to a protected, higher location where you have permission to park. Be sure to do so before the storm arrives to avoid driving on flooded roadways.

Plan for Rapid Clean-Up

• Purchase clean-up supplies now, including, buckets, bleach or bleach substitute, mops, plastic sheeting, gloves, masks, and fans.
• You can reduce the likelihood of mold formation in your home if you have a plan to dry it out quickly.
• Record the telephone number and email address for water removal companies in your area.

Longer-Term

• Buy flood insurance no matter where you live. Where it rains, it can flood.

With 52 million downloads, the wildly popular MyRadar app is a weather alerting leader, and this podcast with MyRadar’s Mark Taylor delivers insights for weather geeks of all kinds. From the early days of polygons and maps to the state of weather tech, Mark and guest host John Zarrella cover all the bases. Don’t miss this engaging conversation with two former national broadcast journalists who serve as FLASH board advisors and help advance the cause of disaster resilience.

Topics Include:

• Weather Media and Technology: Passion and interest in weather—it’s no joke (0:44)
• Weather and Space Gadgets: Marriage of technology to get the forecast right (2:26)
• Weather Resources: Evolution of data, information, and satellites (2:47)
• Innovation and Accomplishments: Take vision and turn it into a real product (3:10)
  • 2006: Built first interactive weather map with real-time data and hurricane tracker
  • 2010: Added precise polygon alerts and warnings using GPS and smartphones
• FLASH: Fueled passion for resilience and willingness to volunteer with dedicated focus (5:07)
• MyRadar: Powerful, accurate radar/weather prediction app w/over 52-million downloads (6:21)
• Vision: Weather has an impact, add radar for tracking to make it better (7:01)
• Mission: Provide information that matters to you where you are in a timely manner (7:36)
• Features: Focus on more than the weather—alerts, temperatures, forecasts, and videos (8:41)
• Educational Platform: What’s the difference between a watch and warning? (10:22)
• Big Data: Too much information, voices, mixed messages, and trusted sources (11:46)
• New Tech Investments: Sophisticated satellites, nowcasting, and road weather (15:53)
• 2021 Goals: Continue to evolve the application, company, and platform (19:46)

I hope you enjoy this podcast episode and don’t forget to subscribe, rate, share, and provide a review on iTunes. Don’t miss these helpful resources and links too:

MyRadar

Mark Taylor on LinkedIn

Andy Green on LinkedIn

John Zarrella

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)

National Hurricane Center (NHC)

No Code. No Confidence – Inspect2Protect (building code resource website for consumers)

Leslie Chapman-Henderson

Federal Alliance for Safe Homes (FLASH)

FLASH Videos

#HurricaneStrong

Just in case you missed our previous Strong Homes, Safe Families! espisodes:

1. #HurricaneStrong and the 2020 Season feat. National Hurricane Center Director Ken Graham
2. The Scoop on Hurricane Shutters feat. Tim Robinson, Managing Partner of Global Protection Products and President of the International Hurricane Protection Association
3. Skills + Supplies Today = Safety and Survival Tomorrow feat. Sean Reilly, District Manager for Lowe’s along North and South Carolina coast-between Myrtle Beach and Morehead City
4. #HurricaneStrong Home Hacks that Save Time and Money feat. Bill Ferimer, Lowe’s Store Manager in Wilmington, North Carolina
5. Have an Insurance Checkup and Make Your Policy #HurricaneStrong feat. Amanda Chase, State Farm Insurance Agent in Winter Park, Florida
6. Take Steps Today for a Smooth Hurricane Claim Process Tomorrow feat. Elizabeth Gulick, VP of Claims Operations for USAA
7. Dr. Anne Cope on Science That Makes Us #HurricaneStrong feat. Anne Cope, Ph.D., PE, Chief Engineer at the Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety (IBHS)
8. Ready, Set, ShakeOut! Feat. Mark Benthien, Director of Communication, Education, and Outreach at the Southern California Earthquake Center (SCEC)
9. Ending the Season #HurricaneStrong, a Conversation with Dr. Rick Knabb, On-Air Hurricane Expert and Tropical Program Manager for The Weather Channel
10. Building Codes Save Study with FEMA’s Ed Laatsch, Director – Safety, Planning, and Building Science Division of the Federal Insurance and Mitigation Administration (FIMA), Risk Management Directorate – Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)
11. Top Ten Tips for Disaster Safety in 2021 feat. Leslie Chapman-Henderson, President and CEO, Federal Alliance for Safe Homes (FLASH)
12. FEMA’s Amanda Siok on How Building Codes and Planning Can Create a Resilient Alaska, feat. Amanda Siok, Earthquake, Tsunami, and Volcano Program Manager for FEMA Region X in Seattle