Prepare for Disasters

Your life can change in the blink of an eye.

Why do they matter?

Downed, falling, and damaged trees account for most major wind-related house damage in hurricanes. More than 30 years ago, Hurricane Andrew toppled 38% of the trees in its path. Hurricane Charley knocked down 10,000 trees in Central Florida in 2004, and Hurricane Katrina’s 120 mph-plus wind speeds took down approximately 20% of urban trees in 2005. In October 2018, Hurricane Michael devastated 26 square miles of the tree canopy, an area equal to the size of Pensacola, Florida, plus four additional square miles. The Hurricane Michael tree losses introduced a multi-year wildfire threat as the downed trees decayed across the affected forests.

Tree damage is a dangerous problem in tornadoes as well. Beyond wind intensity; factors influencing tree damage include:

  • Tree species, age, and condition
  • Soil characteristics
  • Rain amount and duration

What do I need to know?

While you cannot build a home strong enough to withstand the weight and impact of a large tree, you can plan and maintain your landscape to reduce the risk of trees falling on your home. Certain species are more vulnerable to wind damage, such as southern pine, pecan, red oak, and water oak. Species with shorter life spans are more susceptible to storm damage as well.

Consider three factors when evaluating your yard: species, tree health, and location. Place trees far enough from your home that they could fall without causing damage. Maintain the space between your home and any nearby tree to ensure it exceeds the fully grown tree height.

In addition to trees, you should evaluate your hardscape and other elements that might cause damage in high winds. Secure or remove barbeque grills, fences, flag poles, garden decorations, lawn furniture, outdoor lights, and swing sets. Anchor building components, such as gutters, downspouts, and exterior air conditioning or pool equipment.

Where do I start?

Evaluate Your Trees

Check your yard for weakened trees that could fall or lose limbs during high winds. Look for:

  • Cracks in the trunk or major limbs
  • Trees that lean or look one-sided
  • Branches that hang over the house or near the roof
  • Tree limbs that touch power lines
  • Obvious decay or mushrooms growing from the bark
  • Insect infestations

Call and text or email a picture to your local home improvement garden center, nursery, or government extension office if you have questions about your trees.

Care for Your Trees

  • Regular and proper pruning can improve the health and vitality of your trees.
  • Remove dead, diseased, or damaged parts of the tree to stop the spread of disease and harmful insects that weaken or destroy the tree.
  • Never prune tree branches flush to the trunk as doing so removes part of the trunk. Leave a small branch section next to the tree trunk to avoid making the tree susceptible to decay or insect damage.
  • Contact a professional to evaluate, limb, or remove large trees near your home. Ensure you hire a skilled, licensed, insured professional as tree removal is dangerous.

Plant strong trees

Some tree species are more prone to storm damage. A tree more likely to survive storms is compact, with a low center of gravity; a strong, sturdy trunk; and a deep, symmetrical root system. City foresters, government extension offices, home improvement garden centers, nurseries, and landscape firms can advise on smart tree selection for your area and soil conditions.

Use Safe Landscaping Materials

Rock and gravel landscaping swiftly become projectiles in high-wind events. Consider replacing these landscaping materials with fire-treated mulch to reduce the risk of damage when severe weather begins.

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Why does it matter?

Electrical strikes and lightning surges can damage and destroy appliances, electronic devices, and cause devastating house fires. Reduce or prevent lightning damage by installing a professional lightning protection system, whole house surge protection, or a series of point-of-use appliance and electronics protective devices.

No lightning protection device or system can guarantee 100% damage prevention from a direct lightning strike or lightning that enters through unprotected telephone, cable, or power lines to the house. However, you can avoid dangerous and expensive damage to your home.

What do I need to know?

The most comprehensive home lightning protection system is a lightning protection system. Lightning protection systems installed on your home provide a direct path for lightning to follow to the ground while bypassing your house structure, wiring, telephone, and cable lines. The system includes: strike termination devices, conductors, ground terminals, interconnecting bonding, and surge protection devices to prevent harmful electrical surges.

If you have trees taller than 10 feet, you may need to install lightning protection on those as well.

If you cannot afford a professionally-installed lightning protection system, consider a whole house surge protection system, multiple point-of-use protection devices for your cable system, computer, phone, televisions, and other electronic appliances. A whole-house surge protection system can be installed on the electric meter or the electrical panel to help protect the appliances and electronic equipment in your home, such as computers, TVs, and DVD players.

Where do I start?

  • Consult a qualified contractor (UL-listed/LPI-certified or qualified electrician) for the installation of a Lightning Protection System.
  • Contact your utility provider to see if they offer whole house surge protection options.
  • Protect your electronics and appliances with surge protection devices. Surge protectors safeguard electronics and electrical appliances from all but the most severe electrical surges or direct strikes.
    • Ordinary power strips do not necessarily provide surge protection, so read the descriptions carefully.
    • Check your surge protector to ensure it is a “transient voltage surge suppressor” and that it meets Underwriters Laboratories (UL) Safety Standard 1449.

More Resources

The Lightning Protection Institute has information about lightning protection in homes, including details on a Lightning Protection System.

Why does it matter?

According to the Insurance Information Institute, flooding is the most common and costly natural disaster in the United States, causing billions in economic losses each year. The National Flood Insurance Program states that 90 percent of all United States natural disasters involve flooding, making it essential to do all you can to prevent damage. Your yard and landscape are the best places to start.

What do I need to know?

Where it rains, it can flood. However, you can design your yard to help prevent damage by directing water away from your home and foundation with berms and culverts, planting suitable species to absorb water, and using landscape materials that allow water to flow through to the ground.

Where do I start?

  • Encourage water to divert away from your home by taking advantage of any existing ditches or depressions.
  • Dig small channels or add soil mounds or berms to route water in the preferred direction where it can empty in a safer area on your property.
  • Plant native species with deep roots that tolerate wet soil in a garden at least ten feet away from your home in an area that tends to hold water. These plants will help absorb the excess water.
  • Install gutter and downspout diverters to carry water away so that heavy rains do not dump water too close to your home and foundation. Keep your gutters and downspouts clean and debris-free to ensure steady water flow.
  • Build up natural barriers with grasses and plants if your house is located by a hill or slope.
  • Landscape with pervious materials such as gravel or grass and paver combinations to allow water to absorb more easily into the ground.
  • Consider building a retaining wall with stone or brick to redirect water to areas with tolerant plants away from your home.

More Resources:

  • Contact your local county or community extension office to learn about the best plants to use in your landscape.

Why do they matter?

Maintaining energy efficiency in your home is always important but especially during extreme heat. Ensuring your home can maintain cooler temperatures inside is crucial to remaining safe during hot summer weather.

What do I need to know?

  • Sunlight coming in through the windows is converted to heat as it passes through the window glass.
  • Keeping cooler air inside the home is critical to preventing the temperature from exceeding what can be considered safe indoors.
  • The smallest of air leaks in windows and doors can cause significant air exchange and allow warmer air indoors.

Where do I start?

  • Weather-strip doors and sills to keep cool air in.
  • Caulk any gaps around windows, vents or other wall openings.
  • Cover windows that receive morning or afternoon sun with drapes, shades, awnings, or louvers. (Outdoor awnings or louvers can reduce the heat that enters a home by up to 80 percent.)
  • Keep storm windows up all year.
  • Add insulation to keep the heat out.
  • Install window air conditioners and insulate around them.
  • Consider applying window tint film to those windows that get direct sunlight exposure.

Why do they matter?

Because most gas and water lines are rigid, they can be torn from their connection points during an earthquake. Damaged gas and water lines can injure you and others and damage your property. A broken gas line is especially serious because of its potential to start a fire or cause an explosion.

What do I need to know?

  • One way to prevent broken gas and water lines is to have flexible connection pipes installed between appliances and their supply lines.
  • The same method can be used for other appliances, such as a hot water heater, clothes dryer, stove, or gas furnace.
  • Provide a flexible connection between any external fuel tanks and the supply line and where the supply line enters the house.

Where do I start?

  • Changes to the gas lines and plumbing in your property must be done by a licensed contractor, who will ensure that the work is done correctly and according to all applicable codes. This is important for your safety.
  • A flexible connection will help protect against a small amount of movement but is not designed to function when the appliance it is connected to moves extensively or falls. You should also consider anchoring the appliance to the floor or wall.

More Resources

Why does it matter?

Equipment such as heating, air conditioning, satellite dishes, or solar collectors mounted on the roof of a home or other elevated areas pose a risk during an earthquake due to their weight and mass. Preventing these elements from breaking loose can avoid damage and injury, and also help with recovery after an earthquake as these systems can remain operational. Additionally, anchoring these items makes them more resistant to high winds.

What do I need to know?

  • Improperly or unanchored mechanical equipment can slide, tilt, overturn, or fall.
  • These items may be damaged by shaking, or they may be crushed by other fallen components.
  • Failed large mechanical equipment may fall or otherwise damage structural elements.
  • While vibration isolation is used to ensure the proper day-to-day operation of equipment in preventing vibrations, this equipment is particularly vulnerable to earthquake damage. Standard springs used for isolation do not have adequate capacity to resist shear and uplift forces.

Where do I start?

  • Although a general rule of thumb is to anchor larger equipment, its a best practice to securely anchor ALL items attached to rooftops or other locations where they can become dislodged and cause other problems.
  • Look for equipment that has been shake table tested and is rated for seismic loading.
  • Ask about seismic load ratings and seismic anchorage details when you purchase any new equipment such as air conditioning units.
  • Ensure connections of fuel lines, electrical lines, optical cable, piping, or ductwork are correctly secured to avoid damage.
  • Install flexible connections for fuel lines, piping, and electrical lines where they connect to rigidly mounted equipment.
  • Elevated, ceiling-mounted, or rooftop units require special considerations. These units are typically mounted on curbs or platforms to enhance waterproofing and flashing.
  • Curbs upon which rooftop equipment is mounted may be custom-built on site or pre-manufactured. Seismic restraints for the curbs must include the connection between the equipment and the curb, and the attachment of the curb and the roof framing. Also, the curb must be sufficiently strong. If the equipment is internally isolated, increase the design forces for the anchorage appropriately.
  • Many of these retrofits will require a licensed contractor to perform due to their complexity and access to hard-to-reach areas such as rooftops or ceilings.
  • Install some means of bumpers or vendor-supplied restraints in systems with vibration dampeners.

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Why does it matter?

High wind events like hurricanes and tornadoes as well as fast-moving floodwaters or tsunamis can move or dislodge fuel tanks causing a threat to you, your family, and others. Take action today to keep your fuel tank in place.

What do I need to know?

  • An unanchored tank can damage your home or other structures when the supply line comes loose, causing fuel spills, contamination, and even fire.
  • If your tank is buried underground, water saturation can push it to the surface.
  • One of the most effective fuel tank anchoring methods is an attachment to a concrete slab with sufficient weight to withstand the force of floodwaters or high winds. Tanks located outside can also be anchored by running straps over it and using turnbuckles to attach them to the concrete slab.
  • See FEMA. Anchor Fuel Tanks for more details on these methods.

Where do I start?

  • Keep floodwaters out of the tank by extending all filling and ventilation tubes above the 100-year Base Flood Elevation (BFE) or expected flood level.
  • Shut off all connections once flood watches and warnings are issued.

More Resources:

Why does it matter?

Earthquakes may move fuel tanks. When a fuel tank falls, fire or an explosion is possible. Even when a tank remains on its legs, the shaking of an earthquake can break the supply line connection and escaping gas can cause a fire. Similar risks exist with smaller, compressed gas cylinders, which are often stored inside a house or garage.

Anchor your fuel tank to avoid serious threats to you, others, your property, public safety, and the environment.

What do I need to know?

  • Anchor and brace propane tanks and compressed gas cylinders to prevent damage to them during an earthquake.
  • Some compressed gas cylinders cannot be permanently anchored because they have to be periodically replaced. But you can use chains or straps to attach them to a wall so that they will remain upright.
  • Provide a flexible connection between the fuel tank and the supply line, and where the supply line enters the house. Only a licensed contractor should add a flexible connection to a propane tank line for your safety and the security of your property.

Where do I start?

  • Before you alter your fuel tank in any way, make sure that the tank is your property and not rented from the gas supplier.
  • If you prefer not to do this work yourself, you can have a contractor anchor your tank.
  • Clear the area around the tank to ensure that there are no tall or heavy objects that could fall on the tank or break the supply line connection.
  • Store a wrench near the shutoff valve and ensure your family knows how to turn off the supply line if they smell a gas leak.
  • On larger tanks, consider installing a seismic shutoff valve that will automatically turn off the gas by closing the valve during an earthquake.
  • If you wish to secure a compressed gas cylinder or other such tank to a wall, use two lengths of chain around the cylinder: one just below the top of the cylinder and one just above the bottom. Attached the chains to eye hooks that are screwed into the wall structure. In wood-frame walls, the eye hooks must be long enough to penetrate the wall and the studs behind it. In concrete or masonry block walls, install the eye hooks with epoxy, expansion anchors, or toggle bolts.

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Why does it matter?

The contents of your home can be as dangerous as the structure itself during an earthquake, or even more prone to cause you or your family injury. This is especially true of items that hang on the walls such as artwork or other interior decorations.

What do I need to know?

During an earthquake the following household items can become dangerous:

  • Framed pictures and mirrors not securely attached to walls can fall, and broken glass that may result increases the potential for injury.
  • Objects such as framed photos and other items hung on walls can become falling and flying hazards during a seismic event.

Where do I start?

  • Mirrors, picture frames, and other hanging items should be secured to the wall with closed hooks or earthquake putty. Do not hang heavy objects over beds, sofas, or any place you may be seated.
  • The number of eye-hooks needed for a picture or mirror depends on its size and weight. Large pictures and mirrors are more stable when mounted on two hooks rather than one.
  • Make sure that eye-hooks penetrate both the wall and the studs behind it. Use eye-hooks at least 1 to 2 inches long.
  • For both picture wire and closed eye-hooks on the back of the picture or mirror, ensure the mounting hardware is securely attached to the frame.

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Why does it matter?

The contents of your home can be as dangerous as the structure itself during an earthquake, and may be even more prone to cause harm to you or your family. Any unsecured objects that can move, break, or fall as an earthquake shakes your home are potential safety hazards and property losses. During an earthquake, large pieces of furniture can fall on you or others and block exits which could prevent you from escaping. Anchoring furniture so that it remains in place can prevent injuries and protect your home and its contents.

What do I need to know?

During an earthquake the following household items can become dangerous:

  • Cabinet doors can fly open allowing contents to crash to the floor.
  • Objects such as books, lamps, and other items on shelves and tables can become flying hazards.

Where do I start?

  • Install latches on cabinet doors to prevent them from opening and spilling out their contents.
  • Secure your water heater, refrigerator, and other major appliances with the appropriate straps screwed into the wall studs or masonry to help keep them from falling over and rupturing gas or electric connections.
  • Support ceiling fans and light pendants with the use of bracing wire secured to a screw eye embedded at least an inch into the ceiling joist.
  • Secure heavy furniture like bookcases, china cabinets, and entertainment centers with flexible fasteners and make sure they are away from beds, sofas, desks, or other places where people sit or sleep.
  • Furniture can be anchored with metal “L” brackets and screws along its top or sides (either inside or outside of the furniture) with screws through its back or with nylon strapping.
  • Ensure anchoring screws penetrate not just the wall, but the studs behind it too. Screws only in drywall or plaster will pull out.
  • Before anchoring a bookcase with screws through its back, ensure the back is sturdy and securely attached to the sides, top, and bottom. Some bookcases have backs of very thin materials, held in place with small screws or staples that can easily pull out. Those bookcases should be anchored with brackets.
  • Consider connecting two or more bookcases or file cabinets that sit next to each other to one another and the wall. This can increase the stability of the bookcases or file cabinets.
  • If possible, move all bookcases, file cabinets, and other large pieces of furniture away from exits so that if they do fall, they won’t prevent you from escaping.
  • To prevent the contents of your bookcases from falling out, you can install a thin metal or plastic wire, a wood dowel or even an elastic guardrail across the front of each shelf.
  • Keep the tops of your bookcases free of heavy items, especially if they are located near beds or desks, where persons could be injured from falling items.
  • Electronics such as computers, televisions, and microwave ovens are heavy and expensive to replace. Store them on lower shelves and secure them with flexible nylon straps.
  • Ensure that plumbers have installed flexible connectors on all gas appliances.
  • Strap the top and bottom of a water heater using heavy-gauge metal strapping secured to wall studs.
  • Locate your gas shutoff valve and ensure you know how to turn off the gas supply to your home with the use of a suitable wrench.

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Why do they matter?

In a high-wind event such as a hurricane or tornado, keeping the roof on your home is a top priority as is protecting it from wind-borne debris and hail. A resilient roof system will provide wind-resistance and impact-resistance when it counts the most.

What do I need to know?

The roof is the primary structural element of the house, transferring the loads that act on the walls facing the wind into the walls that are parallel to the wind. The roof structure includes framing and roof sheathing, which is covered by a roof covering that serves as a barrier to weather and keeps water from entering the structure.

Roof framing can be composed of either rafters cut from dimensional lumber, often called “conventional framing,” or engineered trusses. Either can provide a strong and secure means of framing a roof. Proper design and installation of roof framing is critical, including the connections of any roof elements by a mechanical means such as metal connectors.

The main structural components of the roof assembly include:

  • Strong nailing of the roof deck to the framing, especially at the edges
  • Connection of the roof to shear walls with blocking
  • An unbroken double top plate on the shear walls that acts as a structural chord.

The connections between the roof and walls are crucial, including:

  • Rafter at Ridge Board. Typical construction practices include cutting out a ridge vent in the roof decking to allow for air to flow freely from inside the attic. This free flow of air causes an unintended weakening of the roof diaphragm at a critical location because the ridge board serves at a boundary of the roof diaphragm. When the decking is cut away for the vent, the decking is no longer connected between the rafters. Installing a strap or straps will strengthen the connection between rafters allowing for roof venting at the ridge.
  • Rafter at Top of Wall. Rafters attached to the top of a wall in a high-wind zone should be fastened to the top plates of the wall with more than just framing nails. Typically, metal connectors, straps, or clips, are specified to hold down the rafter. Eave blocking between the rafters in high winds does more than keep the birds out of the attic; it helps tie the roof diaphragm to the walls and keeps the rafters from rolling due to lateral loads.
  • For Concrete Design, the top plate is anchored to solid concrete or grouted masonry.
  • Truss at Top of Wall. When a truss attaches at the top of the wall, it is similar to a rafter in the hold-down connection. A metal strap or clip is specified to hold down the truss in the same way a rafter is held down, but the eave blocking detail is somewhat different. Most local building codes do not require full eave blocking when trusses are used for the roof structure; however, 2×4 blocks should be installed to help resist lateral loading.

Ensure the same strong roof design and connections are made throughout the house, including other areas such as porches, lanais, carports, and breezeways.

Where do I start?

  • If you’re not ready to reroof, contact a home inspector or licensed roofer to evaluate your roof and identify any retrofit options such as installing additional metal connectors to secure the roof to the wall.
  • If you’re ready to reroof, ask your roofer to include resilience upgrades such as installing a high-wind resistant roof covering, renailing the roof sheathing, and installing a secondary water barrier to seal the roof deck.

More Resources:

  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition
  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why do they matter?

When windows break and allow wind to enter your home, the pressure can build until it eventually causes the weakest part of your home to rupture. Think of it like blowing up a balloon. Once the internal pressure reaches a certain level, it pops. Often, the first thing to “pop” in your home is your roof, so that is why it is critical to protect all your home’s openings with hurricane shutters, panels, or plywood.

When you protect your openings, they can resist impacts from windborne debris like flying missiles, tree limbs, or roofing materials that can break windows and breach doors and allow pressurization to occur. Protecting your openings and keeping them intact can also prevent wind-driven rain and moisture from entering your home.

Tested and approved, permanently mounted hurricane shutters, as well as temporary panels made from metal or other materials, can all serve as adequate protection for home’s openings. If you do not have a shutter system for your home and a hurricane threat is imminent, you can use emergency panels made with ⅝ inch thick plywood.

What do I need to know?

  • Shutters or other opening protection is necessary for all of your home’s unprotected openings, including windows, entry doors, garage doors, skylights, sliding doors, gable end vents, etc. However, many of these elements, mainly garage and exterior doors, may already be wind- and impact-rated, so check your paperwork to evaluate your current protection level.
  • Installing impact-rated shutters over windows and doors is necessary to protect them from windborne debris impacts like flying limbs, construction materials, or even playground items. Protection prevents breakage that allows wind and water to enter and build inside your home.
  • Most shutters are designed to prevent windborne debris from breaking the windows; however, some opening protection choices, e.g., screens, will protect from pressurization but will not keep wind-driven rain out of the home.
  • If your underlying window or door system is weak or poorly anchored to the walls of your home, it can still fail behind a shutter. Failure could allow internal pressure to build and cause potential damage.
  • Even high-quality, permanently mounted shutters may not keep the doors and windows from failing due to wind pressure if they are installed incorrectly.
  • Shutter systems are less expensive than impact-rated glass. However, while the impact-rated glass is always in place, shutters must be deployed before a high-wind event. Moreover, the cost of new windows plus shutters may be close to the cost of impact-resistant windows alone.
  • Some shutters are easily deployed by automatic means, even from a distance. Others require placement in mounting trays or brackets.
  • Shutter systems, doors, and garage doors should carry proof of compliance identified on a sticker or label or imprinted into the product. Alternatively, the product paperwork should document compliance with all relevant testing standards.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s specifications when installing any opening protection system. Improper installation may cause a voided warranty or worse, a product failure that presents a threat to life and property.

Where do I start?

Begin by identifying all the openings on your home and evaluate any that are already wind- or impact-rated. Review shutter and opening protection options, and remember that you can mix and match different options so long as whatever you select is tested, approved, and certified to the relevant standards. For example, you may want to choose permanently mounted, motor-operated protection for the second story or hard to reach windows to avoid using ladders as a hurricane approaches.

Temporary, emergency plywood panels do not carry any testing or approval. However, you should still learn and plan for how to use them correctly if they are your only option.

Purchasing shutters

  • There are many excellent options when it comes to choosing the best type of shutters for your home. Selecting the right type depends on a variety of factors, including your budget, style, and ability to deploy the panels. Use this comparison table to find the right shutters for your home.
  • Ask your local building and zoning department for information about the wind rating and windborne debris protection requirements where you live.
  • Contact an established, local, licensed, bonded, and insured professional company to discuss the different types of shutter or opening protection options in your area.
  • Keep in mind that permanently-mounted, motor-operated, roll down type shutters can be closed quickly before a storm arrives. Most include a remote control option using either a smartphone app or website, so you may not need to be home to deploy them.
  • Make sure you understand how to operate any motor-driven shutters manually in a power outage, so you can get them open after the storm passes.
  • Reinforced screens or fabric opening protection may not protect from deflection (pushing) that can break windows or door glass. Often, the best use for these shutters is to protect openings, or lanai’s where they do not sit directly on top of glass panes or panels.

Temporary Emergency Board Plywood Panels

FLASH recommends that you install certified, tested, and code-approved, wind- and impact-resistant opening protection to achieve the highest level of protection from windborne debris. However, in an emergency where a temporary measure is the only option, properly cut and mounted ⅝” plywood can provide adequate protection for exposed openings.

Consider hiring a contractor or handyman to create the temporary plywood covers, and do so before hurricanes threaten. If you plan, your local home improvement store may also be willing to cut each panel to fit and help you pre-drill the holes.

Step One: Plan the Project

  1. Count and measure each window and door with glass, including entry doors, sliding glass doors, French doors, skylights, and garage doors. Evaluate roof and gable end vents or any opening that, if damaged, is large enough to allow wind inside your home.
  2. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim. Add eight inches to both the height and width to provide a four-inch overlap on all sides. When measuring a window with an extended sill, measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add four inches instead of eight.
  3. Standard plywood panels are generally 4 feet by 8 feet, so calculate how many you will need using your measurements. Be sure to purchase plywood that is ⅝” or thicker, exterior grade (CDX) instead of oriented strand board, or OSB.

Step Two: Assemble Your Tools and Hardware

  • You will need a circular saw, drill and drill bits, hammer and wrench, work gloves, and safety goggles for this project.
  • You will also need an assortment of hardware including bolts, wood or masonry anchors, nuts, and large washers. Different types of bolts will be needed for wood frame versus masonry homes.
  • Use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors for wood-frame homes. Use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors for masonry homes.

Step Three: Get Started

Having someone help you with this project will make things a lot easier. Form a team with neighbors and work together to make the project more manageable.

  1. First, drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2-inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner, and at 12-inch intervals around the panel.
  2. Next, hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes.
    • If the window sill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides.
    • If the window sill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides.
  3. Use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors for windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller that are installed on a wood-frame house. The lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 3/4 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2 1/2 inches.
  4. Use 1/4 inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors for windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a masonry house, The expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches.
  5. If a window or door is larger than a typical 4 x 8 sheet of plywood, you will need to join the panels with 2 x 4 bracing along the entire seam using this method:
    • Attach the 2 x 4’s to the outside of the plywood panel with ten gauge, 2 inches long galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches.
    • Use the widest side of the 2 x 4 to run the length of the entire seam.
  6. When you finish, use a permanent marker to label each panel with the name of the opening, so you will know where to install it when a storm is approaching.
  7. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.
  8. Store the panels, washers, and nuts together in a location away from the elements.

Why do they matter?

When wind forces enter your home, the pressure can build up until it eventually causes the weakest part of your home to rupture. Think of it like blowing up a balloon. Once the internal pressure reaches a certain level, it pops. That is why it is essential to protect all your home’s openings (windows, entry doors, garage doors, skylights, sliding doors, gable end vents, etc.) to keep the wind and pressure out.

When you protect your openings, they can resist impacts from hail or windborne debris like flying missiles, tree limbs, or roofing material that break windows and breach doors and allow pressurization to occur. Protecting your openings and keeping them intact can prevent wind-driven rain and moisture from entering your home as well.

One of the most effective opening protection options is to install impact-resistant windows.

What do I need to know?

  • Impact-resistant windows are made with special glass that will not fall out of the frame and let wind and water into the house.
  • Impact glass is similar to the laminated windshield in your car. It may crack and break, but it will not come apart easily.
  • Impact-resistant windows are always in place to protect the home, so you do not have to install or activate their protection.
  • Typically, impact-resistant windows are more expensive than standard windows, but the extra cost may not be prohibitive compared to mid-to upper-range windows. Further, the cost of impact-resistant windows may equal the cost combination of new standard windows plus a shuttering system.
  • Impact-resistant windows are tested and rated with large and small missile tests.
  • Large missile: A six feet, nine lb. 2 x 4 missile fired at 50 feet per second.
  • Small missile: Thirty pieces of roof gravel fired at 80 feet per second.
  • Compliant impact-resistant windows, shutters, and doors carry proof of compliance identified on a sticker or label or imprinted into the product. Additionally, the product paperwork should document compliance with all relevant testing standards.
  • Follow manufacturer specifications when installing impact-resistant windows. Improper installation may cause a voided warranty or, worse, a product failure that presents a threat to life and property. Learn more about installing windows here.
  • If impact-resistant windows are not an option for you, you can install shutters that can absorb the shock of windborne debris without allowing the window glass to break. Learn more about hurricane shutters options here.

Where do I start?

Replacing your windows

  • Check with your local building department for information about the window design pressure ratings and windborne debris protection requirements that windows should meet.
  • Impact-glass cannot be installed in older, existing window frames. It must be installed as a complete window system, including the frame as that is how it is tested.

More Resources:

  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition.
  • FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition.

Why does it matter?

Pipes can freeze in winter’s low temperatures. This freezing can cause major damage to your home if a pipe ruptures and leaks once it thaws.

What do I need to know?

  • Water freezes when it expands, potentially causing water pipes to burst.
  • Be ready to shut off the water valves if a pipe bursts.

Where do I start?

  • Set your thermostat at 55 degrees or warmer.
  • Open cabinet doors so heat can warm uninsulated pipes under sinks and appliances near exterior walls.
  • Purchase a sump pump and know how it operates to protect the basement from water damage in case large amounts of snow begin to melt.

Foam, Dome & Drip

For as little as $1 per 6’ of insulation, you can stop pipes from freezing during winter, even when the power goes out.

Here are more ways to protect your home:

  • Foam: Insulate pipes exposed to the elements or cold drafts with insulating foam.
  • Dome: Place an insulating dome or other covering on outdoor faucets and spigots to reduce the likelihood of the water in your pipes freezing, expanding, and causing a costly leak.
  • Drip: Drip faucets to reduce the build-up of pressure in the pipes. Even if the pipes freeze, you have released the pressure from the water system, reducing the likelihood of a rupture. If you are going out of town and suspect that temperatures will drop or a power outage will occur, turn off the water to your home and open all of the taps to drain the water system. This way, you won’t return to a frozen, soggy mess.

More Resources:

Why do they matter?

Attachments to your home, such as decks, porches, fences or sheds, can act as fuses or fuel bridges for a wildfire, particularly if constructed from flammable materials.  

What do I need to know?

  • Embers, firebrands, and hot gasses can become lodged or trapped at the following places: under decks and other attached structures, where the structures attach to the home, in between board decking, against exterior walls, and at railing edges.
  • Consider attachments of your home part of your home. Attachments include any additional structures attached such as room pushouts, bay windows, decks, porches, carports, and fences. These features are often very vulnerable to convective exposures.

Where do I start?

Fences and walls

  • Build fences and walls with noncombustible materials, and note that the shape, size, and materials used provide different levels of protection or risk in a wildfire. At the least, ensure that any combustible components are at least 10 feet from the building to prevent heat and flames from igniting the building.
  • Typical fencing and wall materials are wood, plastic, composite, metal, wire, concrete, stone, and masonry. Wood is the most combustible, and concrete, stone, and masonry are noncombustible. Softwoods and preservative treated pine are combustible, while dense hardwoods such as red oak and others are more fire resistant. Plastic fences provide better fire resistance, durability, and often strength than wooden fences, but they can melt. Metal fences are more fire-resistant than plastic fences; however, under certain conditions, a metal fence can also act as a horizontal ladder fuel. Concrete, stone, or masonry are the most effective at minimizing the potential for damage to a building from a wildfire.
  • Avoid fences with gaps because airborne firebrands can become trapped in the gaps and ignite the fence.
  • The common wooden post-and-board fence can become fuel for a wildfire, especially old, weather-beaten fences, and collect embers and firebrands, acting as a horizontal ladder for fuel. If you attach an all-wood fence to your home, use masonry or metal as a protective barrier between the fence and the house. 
  • Maintain your fence or wall, and clear any combustible debris near your fence or wall regularly. Also consider the type of landscape vegetation used, as unmanaged landscape vegetation can increase the likelihood that a fence will ignite. See Landscaping article for more information.
  • If you build a trellis, use non-flammable metal and cover it with high moisture, fire-resistant vegetation. 

Decks

  • Decks are often built at the top of a slope, which is at a high risk of ignition. Consider building and deck orientation to reduce the risk of exposure to a wildfire.
  • Decks built with dimensioned lumber are combustible and can ignite quickly.
  • Prevent combustible materials and debris from gathering beneath a patio deck or elevated porches; screen underneath or box in areas below the deck or porch with wire mesh no larger than 1/8 of an inch.
  • Surround any attached structure with noncombustible material such as gravel, brick, or concrete pavers to prevent vegetative growth and reduce fuel in a wildfire.
  • For decking and stair treads, use exterior fire-retardant-treated wood, minimum 3-inch nominal thickness, or brick or concrete pavers and a suitable drainage mat over wood decking or metal grates, or light, poured concrete.
  • For existing decks, replace combustible materials with noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.
  • Replace dimensional timber railings with fire-resistant materials such as metal, tempered glass, cables, or 3-inch nominal thickness fire-retardant-treated wood.
  • Construct deck skirting using fire-resistant or noncombustible material such as fiber-cement boards, and/or construct a patio on the ground around the deck, stairs, or ramp.
  • When there is no skirting, install a soffit at the underside of balconies, decks, stair landings, or ramps.
  • Maintain decks and other attached structures by replacing deteriorated components before they lose their fire-resistance.

More Resources:

Why do they matter?

Exterior window fire-rated shutters can protect windows and sliding glass doors in a wildfire. Reduce your home’s risk of fire by keeping the windows from breaking and preventing burning embers and firebrands from entering your home.

What do I need to know?

  • Solid metal shutters are preferred over wooden or plastic shutters because they are unlikely to ignite or melt.
  • Shutters can also protect against other extreme weather like high-wind events. If your home is in a windborne debris region, shutters can also serve as opening protection against wind-borne debris.
  • Temporary shutters only work if you have enough time to put them into place. Permanent shutters are easier and quicker to deploy.

Where do I start?

  • Protect windows and sliding glass doors with shutters, especially if your windows and doors are made with wood or vinyl.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
  • FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
  • FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why do they matter?

The garage door is usually the largest opening in your home. Protecting that opening is crucial to preventing a wildfire from breaching the building envelope and spreading to the interior.

What do I need to know?

  • Garage doors are typically made of wood, aluminum, or steel, and are insulated or non-insulated.
  • Unlike standard doors, garage doors are not normally tested for fire resistance.
  • During a wildfire, you may need to leave your home immediately. If the power is out, some garage door openers may not operate. Be sure that your garage door opener has a backup battery function.

Where do I start?

  • Replace wooden garage doors, particularly if they do not have a solid core.
  • Specify and install insulated, metal garage doors.
  • The general rule is the thicker the metal door the better. Choose a three-layer garage door with steel outer layers and insulation in the middle for the best fire resistance.
  • To avoid embers and hot gasses penetrating the garage, install weatherstripping that has been tested to UL Standard 10C around the entire garage door.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why do they matter?

In a wildfire, exterior doors experience the same types of exposure as exterior walls. However, exterior doors are usually much thinner and less fire-resistant than exterior walls and can burn much faster. It’s critical that the exterior doors remain intact to prevent a fire from entering your home. Consider purchasing and installing exterior doors made from fire-rated materials to better protect your home from the dangers of a wildfire.

What do I need to know?

  • Flames and hot gasses can ignite combustible materials in a door and door frame and penetrate openings between the door and frame and between the door and threshold (or floor if there is no threshold).
  • Embers can become lodged in openings between the door and frame and between the door and threshold (or floor if there is no threshold). Embers can also be blown through the openings into a home.
  • Flames, convective, or radiant heat and airborne firebrands can break glass in a door.

Where do I start?

  • Solid exterior doors are usually wood or metal.
  • Doors with a solid, noncombustible mineral core are considered fire-rated doors and are rated by Underwriters Laboratories (UL) according to how long they can resist fire (UL Standard 10C).
  • UL classifications for interior and exterior fire-rated doors and their frames range from 3-hour to 20‑minute ratings. Exterior fire-rated doors may be rated 1½ hour or 3/4 hour. Door fire rating is intended to equal three-fourths of the fire rating of the surrounding wall. For example, a 1½‑hour rated door is intended to be used in a 2-hour rated wall, and a 3/4-hour rated door is intended to be used in a 1-hour rated wall. However, you may use a door with a higher fire rating.
  • Install adjustable weatherstripping on the interior side of the door frame and an automatic door bottom or threshold weatherstripping to block embers and hot gasses penetrating the inside of the home between the door and the frame. The weatherstripping and door bottom should be tested to UL Standard 10C.
  • Replace door vision panels that are susceptible to damage from a wildfire with tempered glass with a low-e or proprietary reflective coating, if the door has sufficient fire resistance.
  • Replace wooden egress/ingress doors without a solid core. However, egress/ingress doors are often relatively fire-resistant compared to other building components and therefore are not usually a high priority for mitigation.
  • Weatherstripping material can melt or burn under very high heat or prolonged exposure to heat, lowering its ability to prevent embers and hot gasses from entering a home.
  • Do not shutter doors, as you may need a means of egress in an emergency.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.

Why does it matter?

Windblown embers from a wildfire can travel up to two miles. They can enter through your fireplace chimney flue, land on ignitable surfaces, and start a structure fire inside your home. If you have a fireplace, you could cause a wildfire in your neighborhood if embers fly from your chimney and collect on vegetation or ignitable surfaces like wood decks or roofs. The good news is that you can help prevent embers from entering or escaping your chimney by installing a simple, affordable fix.

What do I need to know?

Installing a welded wire, or woven wire mesh spark arrestor with openings less than 1/4 inch wide will prevent embers from entering or leaving your chimney.

Where do I start?

Verify that you have working spark arrestors in all chimneys and stovepipes in your home. Have a professional inspection and cleaning at least once per year and twice per year if you reside in a high wildfire risk area.

More Resources:

Why do they matter?

Utilities that penetrate your home can be a threat in a wildfire, and exterior equipment (ex: solar panels and receiver dishes) can be damaged by the high temperatures from a wildfire.

What do I need to know?

  • Pressurized and liquid fuels (typically used for heating, hot water, and cooking) are flammable and explosive.
  • Exterior equipment often has combustible components, and openings for ducting and conduit may be a vulnerability during a wildfire.
  • Wildfires can affect power transmission, damage equipment, or cause a short circuit in the lines.
  • Consider the potential effects of power outages and surges on utilities and exterior equipment: electrically-powered equipment miles away may be damaged, and water well power supplies are vulnerable.
  • Roof-mounted equipment has the same ignition potential as the roofing assembly.
  • Exposed, combustible delivery lines are vulnerable to wildfire (ex: pipe connections that include a rubberized gasket).
  • Venting of fuel under pressure may cause significant damage or total destruction of your home.

Where do I start?

  • Install utility and equipment connections underground, if possible. If underground installation isn’t possible, seal gaps and penetrations in exterior walls and roofs with fire-resistant materials. Fill large gaps with intumescent or fire-protective sheets or pillows. Use fire-resistant wrap around ventilation features that are built into and penetrate exterior walls (ex: air conditioners).
  • Shield power cables and other wiring with noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.
  • Use noncombustible or fire-resistant materials to mount roof-mounted equipment.
  • Use surge protectors for valuable electronic equipment.
  • Install Class A rated solar cell systems.
  • Place fuel storage vessels 30 feet from your home, away from downhill slopes, and enclose vessels behind a noncombustible masonry wall. Bury pressurized storage vessels underground, if possible.
  • Bury or shield fuel lines.
  • Shield gas meters with noncombustible materials.
  • Ensure pressurized storage tanks have a pressure relief valve.
  • Use defensible space for the location of utilities and exterior equipment (ex: electric water pumps, fuel tanks).
  • Reduce any potential combustible debris around exterior equipment.

More Resources:

  • FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.