Why do they matter?
Tornado safe rooms constructed following FEMA guidance or ICC 500-certified storm shelters are your best chance for survival when deadly hurricanes and tornadoes strike. They provide near-absolute life safety protection and can withstand extreme winds, even up to EF-4 or EF-5 level tornadoes.

Saving lives is the first and foremost purpose of safe rooms and shelters, but they can also make your home more valuable. According to FEMA analysis, a safe room can increase your home’s selling price by approximately 3.5%. As site-built and prefabricated safe rooms can cost as little as $3,000, tornado safe rooms and shelters are both lifesaving and moneywise.

What do I need to know?
There are six different types of tornado safe rooms and shelters.

Cast-in-Place Concrete
These rooms are built with removable forms and assembled onsite. Once the forms are placed, the rebar is set inside the formwork, then filled with concrete. The panels are removed after the concrete hardens.

The walls and ceilings are formed at once to create a strong, secure structure. When you add this type of shelter to an existing home, it is usually added to the exterior. The panels can be fitted with liners to create concrete exterior surfaces that look like siding, brick, or stone.
This room can be built virtually anywhere in a new house.

Insulating Concrete Forms (ICFs)
These rooms are created using foam blocks that contain steel reinforcement, fitted together, and then filled with concrete. The foam is a permanent part of the room and provides insulation to the building.

The ceiling is constructed with ICFs creating a continuous, steel-reinforced concrete structure. The forms can be used in new or existing construction.

Interior and exterior finish options include drywall, sheetrock, or siding nailed to the foam.
You can use ICFs to build a stand-alone safe room or an entire house.

Concrete Masonry
Concrete masonry safe rooms are common in new construction and can be built in one to two days. Individual concrete blocks are set in place; rebar is placed for strength and durability, and the cells are fully grouted.

Reinforcement comes out of the foundation, centered in grouted cells, and is carried to the top. Two rows of steel at the top of the wall hold the assembly together.

Bathrooms, walk-in closets, and basement storage rooms commonly serve as locations for these safe rooms in new construction. Exterior applications are often in a garage, detached garage, or storage building. This method offers a variety of texture and finish options.

Precast Concrete
This room is formed off-site and delivered to a house for installation. It can be used virtually anywhere in a new house. It is usually added to the exterior when added to an existing home.

The room is anchored using steel angles (L brackets) and bolts. Precast concrete can be used to build an entire house, and it can be finished in a variety of colors and textures using form liners. Exterior surfaces can be customized to look like siding, brick, or stone.

Prefabricated Steel
Prefabricated safe rooms must meet the ICC 500 standard and are available in smaller sizes than the safe rooms constructed using FEMA P-320. These rooms typically cost less than site-built safe rooms.

Installation costs for prefabricated safe rooms vary depending on the delivery distance as well as any necessary foundation or geotechnical work required to ensure installation on a sturdy foundation.
Prefabricated safe rooms can be ordered online or in-store at home improvement retailers.

Wood Frame and Steel Sheathing
The wood frame construction method uses wood framing covered by steel sheets and two layers of plywood. Hurricane ties are used to connect the roof to the studs, and another hurricane tie is added at the bottom with an anchor bolt to hold everything down. This type of safe room can be built in less than one day.

This room can be used as an addition to an existing home after verifying that the foundation is adequate. It can also be included in new construction in a variety of room options, such as a closet, storage space, or stand-alone garage structure.

Sheetrock, textures, and paint can be used to customize finishes and room colors. A wood frame safe room is most affordable when constructed as part of a new home, as the cost of additional materials is primarily the door assembly, steel, and extra plywood.

Where do I start?
Whether you build a safe room onsite or install a prefabricated shelter, consider the safety of its location. Safe rooms are designed to protect you and your family from extreme winds but cannot protect you from flooding. That is why they should never be built or placed in areas expected to flood during hurricanes, thunderstorms, or other severe weather events.

Contact your local building official, emergency management office, or floodplain management bureau to determine if your home is in a storm surge zone, high flood risk zone, or flood-prone area.

More Resources
Tornado-Strong.org – Checklists, fact sheets, and video library
FEMA P-361: Safe Rooms for Tornadoes and Hurricanes: Guidance for Community and Residential Safe Rooms
FEMA P-320: Taking Shelter from the Storm: Building or Installing a Safe Room for Your Home
ICC 500: Standard for the Design and Construction of Storm Shelters

Why do they matter?

Your home is vulnerable to damage during hurricanes, severe thunderstorms, or tornadoes when roof ridge vents, soffits, valleys, and other roof accessories fail. Securing the components of your roof during a storm can prevent water intrusion, the creation of windborne debris, and subsequent damage to your home’s roof and interior. Strengthen these parts of your roof today, so you are ready when high winds arrive.

What do I need to know?

Roof accessories refer to various products and materials used in conjunction with a roof system to enhance its functionality, appearance, or both. Some standard roof accessories include:

1. A soffit is a horizontal surface outside on the underside of the eaves. The eave is the area of the roof that overhangs the exterior walls. Properly installed and braced soffits resist wind forces and keep water out when the wind drives rain against the outside walls pushing through soffits and into the home’s attic. Soffit failure during recent hurricanes continues to present a challenge. It has caused widespread and costly ceiling and interior damage. The good news is that soffit bracing is a high-impact yet low-cost DIY home improvement project.
2. Attic ventilation openings include soffit vents, ridge vents, off-ridge vents, gable rake vents, and turbines. Post-storm damage investigations often find attic ventilation openings that failed to resist high-wind pressure or keep wind-driven rain from entering the home.
3. Ridge vents are installed at the roof’s peak to allow hot air to escape from the attic, improving ventilation. Shingles on roof ridges often blow off in hurricanes or severe windstorms. Vented ridge caps should be fastened adequately to ensure wind resistance. Low-profile ridge vents are a good choice as they are less vulnerable to high wind.
4. Roof valleys are problematic in severe weather because they experience significant water flow. They can create ponding if they collect leaves and debris, leading to water seepage into the attic.
5. Rooftop exterior equipment includes exhaust fans, fan cowlings, and vent hoods. This type of equipment can blow off during high-wind events due to insufficient anchorage, inadequate equipment strength, or rusting fasteners and straps.
6. Flashings are metal pieces installed around chimneys, vents, and other roof openings to prevent water from seeping into the roof.
7. Gutters and downspouts are installed at the roof’s edge to collect rainwater and direct it away from the building’s foundation.
8. Skylights are installed on the roof to allow natural light into the building.
9. Snow guards are installed on the roof to prevent snow from sliding off and potentially causing damage to property or people below.
10. Solar panels are installed on the roof to generate electricity from sunlight.
11. Chimney caps are installed on chimneys at the top to prevent debris and animals from entering.

Where do I start?

Have a licensed general or roofing contractor inspect your roof accessories to ensure they are anchored and secure.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High-Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition

HurricaneStrong.org Soffit Checklist

Buyers Guide to Resilient Homes – Hurricane and Tornado Checklists

FEMA 499, Home Builder’s Guide to Coastal Construction Technical Fact Sheet Series

Technical Fact Sheet No. 7.5, Minimizing Water Intrusion through Roof Vents in High-Wind Regions

FEMA P-55, Coastal Construction Manual: Principles and Practices of Planning, Siting, Designing, Constructing, and Maintaining Residential Buildings in Coastal Areas

Protecting your home’s eaves, gutters, soffits, and vents from wildfire is crucial to prevent wildfires. Evaluate and modify these building components to keep wildfire embers from entering and igniting your home.

What do I need to know?

Eaves, Overhangs, and Soffits
Eaves, overhangs, and soffits are not typically fabricated with fire-resistant materials. That is why they pose a potential hazard in wildfire-prone areas. These critical home components, including those made with thin metal, untreated wood panels, and vinyl material, are highly vulnerable to wildfire because they melt or ignite, allowing the fire to spread onto the roof, into the attic, or onto and through the exterior wall.
Overhangs and the top part of exterior walls can trap windborne embers, convective heat, and radiant heat, so it is critical to construct overhangs and walls using noncombustible or fire-resistant materials.

Vents
There are various types of vents in a home, including vents for attics; ventilated cathedral ceilings; crawlspaces; and heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems. During a wildfire, embers and hot gasses can enter vent openings and attic spaces, crawlspaces, and ductwork, spreading fire to the interior of your home. Dust, lint, and other debris collected at vent openings can also catch fire.

Gutters and Downspouts
Gutters and downspouts fabricated with plastic can melt during a wildfire.
Branches, leaves, pine needles, and other debris and vegetation trapped in gutters can catch ignite, create a fuel path, and spread wildfire to the roof.

Where do I start?

1. Remove debris from your gutters, soffits, and vents, such as leaves, twigs, and branches.
2. Install fine mesh screens over your vents, gutters, soffits, fireplace chimneys, and the underside of above-ground decks to keep embers out. Use non-combustible mesh no larger than 1/8 inch in size.
3. Enclose eaves, fascia, and soffits with noncombustible materials to reduce the size of the vents or openings to prevent firebrands from entering the structure.
4. Do not use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or vinyl siding; they can melt in a wildfire and allow embers to enter the attic space.
5. Consider a home design without or with minimal overhangs to avoid the potential fire risks with soffits and the potential for trapping embers and hot gases. If you have a roof overhang or large overhang, take the following steps:
   • Use soffits rated for minimum one-hour fire resistance. This will help stop embers and hot gases from making contact with the joists, rafters, trusses, or the underside of the roof decking.
   • Use flat, horizontal soffits instead of attaching the soffits to the sloped joists.
   • Use noncombustible or fire-resistant fascia materials.
6. Seal any gaps or cracks around your eaves, soffits, and vents with a fire-resistant sealant. This will prevent embers from entering your home through these openings.
7. Use fire-resistant materials for eaves, soffits, and vents. Metal, cement, or stucco can be good choices.
8. Use noncombustible materials for gutters and downspouts, as those fabricated from galvanized steel, copper, and aluminum will not ignite.
9. Install non-combustible leaf guards over gutters, including metal-mesh screens and hood types. As debris can still accumulate on top of the leaf guards, clean them regularly and remove all debris.
10. Never plant trees under your roof overhangs. Trim back any existing trees and branches that drape over your roof and eaves.
11. Keep a defensible space around your home by clearing any ignitable materials, such as dry leaves or branches, within 30 feet of your home.
    Take all these steps to protect your eaves, gutters, soffits, and vents, and you will reduce the risk of your home igniting during a wildfire.

Resources and References

FEMA P-737 Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones
FEMA Rebuilding After a Wildfire
California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection: Wildfire Home Retrofit Guide
California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection: Readyforwildfire.org

Why does it matter?

Wildfire-resistant roofing refers to using building materials and construction techniques designed to minimize the risk of fire damage to roofs and homes during a wildfire. This is especially important in areas prone to wildfires, where traditional roofing materials such as wood shingles or asphalt may be vulnerable to ignition.
Embers, or firebrands, are small particles of combustible building material, trees, shrubs, or other vegetation that ignite during a wildfire. Windborne embers can fly up to two miles ahead of a wildfire perimeter and cause the ignition to 90% of destroyed homes.

Flying embers can land on or near your home, especially your roof, so it is critical to have a fire-resistant roof and reduce the chances of your home catching fire.

What do I need to know?

One common type of wildfire-resistant roofing is metal roofing, which is highly resistant to flames and flying embers. Metal roofing is typically more expensive than traditional roofing materials but can provide excellent protection against fire. Metal roofs can be made of various materials, such as aluminum, steel, or copper. They can be installed in shingle, tile, or standing seam configurations.

Another option is using fire-resistant shingles, typically made of asphalt or fiberglass, and treated with fire retardants to make them less flammable. These shingles can be slightly more expensive than traditional shingles. Still, they are highly effective in reducing the risk of fire damage.

Additionally, installing a fire-resistant underlayment beneath the roofing material can provide extra protection against embers and flames. This underlayment is typically made of non-combustible fiberglass or mineral wool.
Understanding roof classification differences is essential for choosing a wildfire-resistant covering.
• Class A roofs are preferred as they are the most fire-resistant roof covering type. They include asphalt fiberglass composition shingles, flat/barrel-shaped clay and cementitious tiles, and some metal materials.

• Class B roofs include treated wood shake roofs but are not allowed or recommended in most wildfire-risk locations.

• Class C roofs made from recycled plastic, rubber, or aluminum are treated with fire-resistant coating and installed with fire-resistant materials such as an additional fireproof layer. Still, the coatings can wear out over time due to weather and exposure.

Where do I start?

Installing a fire-resistant roof is an important safety measure that can help protect your home and property from fire damage. Here are some steps to follow when installing a fire-resistant roof:

1. Choose fire-resistant roofing materials: Several types of roofing materials are naturally fire-resistant, including metal, clay, and concrete tiles. Some other materials, such as asphalt shingles, can be treated with fire-resistant coatings. Be sure to select roofing materials with a Class A fire rating, which is the highest level of fire resistance.
2. Install fire-resistant underlayment: Underlayment is a layer of material installed underneath the roofing material to provide additional protection against water and weather. Fire-resistant underlayment is made of materials such as fiberglass or mineral wool and can help prevent fire from spreading through the roof.
3. Use fire-resistant flashing: Flashing is a thin piece of material installed around roof penetrations such as chimneys, vents, and skylights to prevent water from seeping in. Fire-resistant flashing is made of copper, aluminum, or stainless steel and can help prevent fire from spreading through roof penetrations.
4. Install fire-resistant sheathing: The sheathing is the layer that covers the roof deck and provides a base for the roofing material. The fire-resistant sheathing is made of gypsum or fiber cement and can help prevent fire from spreading from the roof deck into the attic.
5. Install a fire-resistant ridge vent: A ridge vent is a type of ventilation system installed along the ridge of the roof to allow hot air to escape from the attic. Fire-resistant ridge vents are made of materials such as metal or ceramic. They can help prevent fire from spreading through the ventilation system.
6. Ensure proper installation: It is essential to have the roof installed by a professional experienced in installing fire-resistant roofing materials. Correct installation ensures that the roof provides maximum protection against fire.
7. Keep your roof clear of debris at all times.

More Resources:

FLASH Buyers Guide to Resilient Homes – Wildfire Checklist
FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones
FEMA How to Prepare for a Wildfire
FEMA Rebuilding After a Wildfire

Why do they matter?

Many homes have accessory structures such as sheds, gazebos, pavilions, pergolas, and attached structures, including open carports. An unsecured accessory structure can be loosened, lifted, and moved by high winds during hurricanes, severe storms, or tornadoes, causing damage and creating dangerous conditions.
Engineering analysis after high-wind events often finds that damage begins when an attached or accessory structure fails, leading to even more significant damage to the home. For example, carports with poor connections to the house can be lifted by high winds and compromise the home’s roof. Insufficiently anchored structures such as sheds can break apart and become windborne debris that cracks windows and allows wind inside the house. Making sure these structures stay in place is critical to keep you safe and help prevent damage to the structure and your home.

What do I need to know?

Securing gazebos, pergolas, sheds, or other accessory structures against high wind requires several steps:

1. Proper foundation: The structure should have a sound foundation, such as concrete footings, to ensure it is firmly anchored to the ground. If the structure rests on columns, they should be securely connected to the foundation to resist wind uplift and damage.
2. Strong anchoring: The structure should be anchored to the foundation using strong bolts or anchors designed to withstand high winds. This can include anchor straps, earth anchors, or auger anchors.
   a. Carports and other attached structures, such as swimming pool screen enclosures, must be securely anchored to a foundation and attached to the main structure.
   b. All accessory items require some form of anchorage, regardless of size. Even a small playhouse can detach and become windborne debris in extreme wind events.
   c. Generally, if an object cannot be moved indoors, you should anchor it to the ground.
3. Reinforced construction: The accessory structure should be strengthened to withstand high winds. This could involve using thicker or stronger materials, adding cross-bracing or additional framing, or using hurricane straps or truss screws to secure the roof to the walls.
4. Regular maintenance: Regular maintenance is essential to ensure that the structure remains in good condition, so be sure to repair any damage or wear and tear promptly. This can include replacing damaged or missing components, tightening bolts or anchors, and trimming trees or other vegetation that could fall on the structure during a storm.
5. Remove loose objects: Any loose objects, such as furniture, planters, or decorations, should be removed from the structure and stored inside during high winds.
6. Stay up-to-date: Stay up-to-date with weather forecasts and warnings in your area. If a severe storm is expected, taking additional precautions, such as removing the roof or dismantling the structure until the storm passes, may be necessary.

Where do I start?

• Consult a licensed contractor or engineer in your area to have them determine if the anchorage and connections on your accessory or attached structures are sufficient to resist high-wind events.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition
FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why does it matter?

Flooding is the most common natural disaster in the United States. It causes the most property damage of all types of natural disasters, comprising 90% of disaster-related damage in the U.S. annually. All 50 states have experienced flooding during the past five years.

Hurricanes and storms typically cause floods in the Eastern United States and the Gulf Coast. In the Western U.S., snowmelt and rainstorms are responsible for most flooding.

What do I need to know?

According to FEMA, one inch of floodwater can cause more than $25,000 in damage. Five inches can cause more than $45,000, and one foot can cost nearly $75,000.

How do I get started?

Take the following steps to mitigate and prevent devastating damage caused by flooding and rising water.

Take the following steps to mitigate and prevent devastating damage caused by flooding and rising water.

1. Elevate your home if you live in a high-risk flood zone to reduce the risk of damage. While costly, this retrofit could save your home from complete destruction in extreme flooding.
2. Inside your home: Elevate and protect these appliances to prevent costly damage.
   • Washers & dryers
   • Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) indoor equipment
   • Water heaters
   • Electrical panels and electrical service components, such as switches and receptacles
   • Telephone, computer, and communications equipment
   • Electronics such as televisions, cable boxes, etc.
3. Outside your home: Elevate and protect these appliances, systems, and equipment to avoid costly damage.
   • Place air conditioning compressors, heat pumps, or package units (single units including a furnace and air conditioner) on a masonry, concrete, or pressure-treated lumber base.
   • Anchor mount elevated exterior appliances such as fuel tanks.
4. Install flood barriers: You can also install flood barriers around your home to prevent water from entering. This could include sandbags or permanent barriers such as floodgates or walls.
5. Waterproof your basement by following these steps:
   • Seal any cracks and gaps in the basement walls or floor to prevent water from entering. Use hydraulic cement, epoxy, or other waterproofing products.
   • Install a drainage system: A drainage system can help to redirect water away from your home’s foundation. Consider installing a French drain, a sump pump, or other drainage systems.
   • Apply waterproof coatings: Waterproof coatings can be applied to the walls and floor of your basement to create a barrier against moisture. There are various types of coatings available, including cementitious coatings, acrylic coatings, and epoxy coatings.
   • Improve ventilation: Good ventilation prevents moisture buildup in your basement. Installing vents or fans can improve airflow and reduce humidity.
6. Install backflow valves: Backflow valves can prevent sewage from backing up into your home during heavy rainfall or flooding.
7. Maintain your gutters and downspouts: Make sure your gutters and downspouts are clean and free of debris to prevent water from backing up and causing damage to your home.
8. Do not overlook your landscape. Observe how water flows around your home. Use culverts and landscaping to ensure it flows away and does not pond or pool around the foundation. This may involve re-grading the soil or installing drainage swales or ditches.
9. Purchase flood insurance: flood insurance will cover costs to clean and repair your home in the event of a flood. In contrast, standard homeowners insurance policies typically do not cover flood damage.

More Resources

Buyers Guide to Resilient Homes
HurricaneStrong.org

Why does it matter?

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), hail causes approximately $1 billion in damages to crops and property in the United States each year.
Hail can range in size from small pellets to softball-sized and can fall at speeds of up to 100 miles per hour. When hail strikes roofs, it can damage shingles, tiles, or metal panels, leading to leaks and water damage. Additionally, hail can break windows, dent cars, and damage outdoor equipment and furniture.

What do I need to know?

An impact-resistant roof is a roofing system designed to withstand severe weather, such as strong winds, hailstorms, and flying debris. These roofs are typically made from durable materials, such as metal, concrete, or specially designed asphalt shingles, that are designed to absorb the impact of high-speed objects without sustaining significant damage.

Impact-resistant roofs are rated based on their ability to resist damage from hail and wind. The ratings are determined by industry-standard tests that involve dropping steel balls of various sizes and weights onto the roofing materials to simulate the impact of hail. Roofs that pass these tests receive a Class 1, 2, 3, or 4 rating, with Class 4 being the most impact-resistant.

Impact-resistant roof coverings require additional costs, but the investment is worthwhile for the added damage protection for homeowners. When you use these types of materials, you may also lower insurance premiums in areas prone to severe weather, such as Texas.

Where do I start?

Choose impact-resistant roof coverings when reroofing or building a new home.

More Resources:

Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety – Hail Shingle Performance Ratings

Why do they matter?

Attic ventilator fans are an important component of a home’s cooling system during extreme heat situations, providing several benefits, such as reducing heat buildup, preventing moisture damage, extending roof life, and lowering energy costs.

What do I need to know?

Attic ventilator fans are installed in the attic of your home to help regulate the temperature and humidity levels in the space. The fan works by drawing hot and humid air out of the attic and replacing it with cooler, drier air from outside.

Attic ventilator fans come in different shapes and sizes, typically consisting of a motorized fan blade housed within a frame or housing. The fan is usually mounted on the roof or in a gable vent and is connected to a thermostat that automatically turns it on and off based on the temperature in the attic.

Some types of attic ventilator fans are powered by electricity, while others are powered by solar panels. They can be useful in reducing cooling costs by preventing the buildup of hot air in the attic, which can transfer heat into the living spaces below.

Extreme heat can cause damage to roofing materials, such as shingles, by causing them to expand and contract, leading to cracking and other damage. Attic ventilator fans help to reduce heat buildup, which can prolong the life of roofing materials and prevent premature deterioration.

Lowering Energy Costs: When attic temperatures rise, it can cause the air conditioning system to work harder to keep the living space cool, leading to higher energy costs. Attic ventilator fans help to reduce the temperature in the attic, which can reduce the load on the air conditioning system and lower energy costs.

Where do I start?

Contact a licensed roofer or HVAC specialty contractor to discover your installation options.

Why does it matter?

Covering your home’s windows during extreme heat can help keep you and your house cooler and more comfortable when it matters most.

What do I need to know?

Covered windows:

• Reduce solar heat gain – Windows are one of the primary sources of solar heat gain in a home. When sunlight enters through the window, it can heat the interior and make your air conditioning work harder to keep your home cool. By covering your windows with blinds, shades, or curtains, you can reduce the amount of sunlight that enters your home, which can help keep the temperature down.

• Block UV rays – Ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun can damage furniture, flooring, and other materials in your home. Covering your windows with UV-blocking shades or curtains can help protect your belongings from fading and other damage.

• Increase energy efficiency – When your air conditioning has to work harder to cool your home, it uses more energy and can increase your electricity bill. Covering your windows and reducing solar heat gain can improve your home’s energy efficiency and lower your energy costs.

Overall, covering your windows during an extreme heat situation can help keep your home more comfortable and reduce your energy costs. It’s important to choose window coverings designed for energy efficiency and UV protection and to keep them closed during the hottest parts of the day.

Where do I start?

There are several cost-effective ways to cover your windows during extreme heat to keep your home cool. Here are some of the best and least expensive options:

• Curtains: Curtains are another inexpensive option for covering your windows during extreme heat. They come in various materials and thicknesses, and when closed, they can block sunlight and reduce heat gain. It’s best to choose curtains with light-colored, reflective fabrics to maximize their cooling effect.

• Reflective Blinds: Reflective blinds, such as aluminum or Mylar, are designed to reflect the sun’s rays away from your home. They are an inexpensive option that can be easily installed and adjusted to control the amount of light and heat entering your home.

• Window Film: Window film is a thin, transparent sheet that can be applied to your windows to block heat and UV rays. It’s an affordable option that can be easily installed, and it comes in various tints and designs to suit your needs.

• Window Shades: Window shades are available in different materials, such as bamboo, fabric, or vinyl. They can be mounted inside or outside the window frame and effectively block the sun’s heat and glare. They also come in various designs and colors to match your decor.

Choose the window covering option that best suits your needs and budget while considering energy-saving benefits.

Why do they matter?

Masonry fireplaces and chimneys in earthquake-prone regions are particularly vulnerable to earthquake damage. Build or retrofit your home with a fireplace and chimney appropriate for an earthquake-prone area.

What do I need to know?

• Unreinforced masonry (URM) chimneys are highly vulnerable to earthquake damage; their behavior is a common consideration of seismic intensity as in the Modified Mercalli Intensity (MMI) scale.   
• Masonry fireplaces and chimneys can be heavy and rigid, and existing chimneys are often brittle.
• Your home and the fireplace and chimney may have significantly different responses to earthquake ground motions, creating the potential for damage to both the house and the fireplace and chimney. 
• Even without signs of damage from an earthquake, the masonry or flue liner may have cracked, so it is vital to have them inspected before reuse.
• Factory-built fireplaces and flues within light-frame fireplace enclosures and chimneys can be used due to their typically good performance during earthquakes. However, you must pay special attention to the detailing of framing anchorage and adhere to the installation instructions specifications for combustible wood framing clearances. 
• Restoring the outside surface of deteriorated mortar joints (repointing) or patching isolated masonry cracks are aesthetic repairs and regular chimney maintenance. However, they are insufficient reinforcement to increase performance during an earthquake. 

Where do I start?

• Constructing or retrofitting a chimney and fireplace requires expertise, so a licensed contractor should perform this type of work to ensure it is done safely and meets the building code requirements.

More Resources:

FEMA 232, Homebuilders’ Guide to Earthquake Resistant Design and Construction

FEMA. Repair of Earthquake-Damaged Masonry Fireplace Chimneys: South Napa Earthquake Recovery Advisory.

Why does it matter?

Deadly and destructive fires frequently follow earthquakes. In 1906, the infamous 7.8 magnitude San Francisco earthquake and ensuing fire killed 3,000 and razed large city sections, making it the most deadly in U.S. history. In modern times, severed gas lines are often the source of ignition, so it is essential to plan for and mitigate against the threat of fire.

One of the most effective ways to reduce fire risk after an earthquake is to locate your gas supply and understand how to interrupt the flow.

What do I need to know?

• Install an automatic gas shutoff valve that activates when sensors register ground shaking or an increased gas flow. 
• If you do not have an automatic system, purchase a wrench and locate the valve to ensure you can manually turn off the gas supply to prevent a fire or explosion after an earthquake.
• Store the wrench near your gas supply valve, and ensure you and your family know how to use it. 

Where do I start?

• Contact your gas utility provider for more information about how to have a shutoff valve installed.
• Learn how to turn off the gas supply after an earthquake, as well as how to have your gas turned back on once the danger has passed. 

Why do they matter?

Strong foundations keep your house stable during earthquakes by resisting seismic forces that pass underneath it. A house with strong wall-to-foundation anchorage will help prevent your home from sliding or moving during an earthquake.

Your strong home foundation is one of the essential parts of your resilient home. 

What do I need to know?

• A house with a stem wall foundation has a wood-framed first floor on a raised concrete perimeter made from reinforced masonry (CMU or cinder blocks).
• You can anchor and reinforce a stem wall foundation using foundation bolts or foundation plates.

Where do I start?

• Consult your contractor or professional engineer when considering earthquake retrofitting options for your existing home.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why do they matter?

Strong foundations help stabilize your house during earthquakes, floods, high winds, hurricanes, and tornadoes. They resist hydrostatic forces of water, carry wind forces down to the ground, and resist seismic forces as they pass underneath your home. A house with strong wall-to-foundation anchorage and connections will help prevent your home from collapsing, moving, sinking, sliding, tipping, or overturning during disasters.

A strong home foundation is one of the essential parts of your resilient home. 

What do I need to know?

House design, budget, climate, location, soil conditions, and moisture are the main factors used when selecting a foundation type for your home. Three main types of foundations are commonly used for residential and single-family homes.

• Poured concrete or “slab-on-grade” foundations are the most common type used for houses, especially in climates that do not experience winter freezes. This foundation is constructed by pouring concrete into a steel-reinforced mold on a framed gravel bed. You can adapt this foundation for use in colder climates with insulation and by adding concrete footings that extend into the ground below the expected frost line.
• Permanent wood foundations are less common than poured concrete but offer lightweight, high-strength, durable options for home construction. These foundations are constructed using treated, moisture-and decay-resistant lumber or engineered wood. The advantages of this type of foundation are that they are simple to build, insulate, and weatherproof. The disadvantage may be that this foundation cannot handle the heaviest loads.

• Raised Foundations are common along the coast and in flood-prone regions, as they can support the home while resisting moisture conditions. There are two main types of raised foundations, stem wall and pier-and-beam. Note: Pier-and-beam is sometimes called post-and-beam, but generally, pier refers to concrete, and post refers to wood.

A house with a stem wall foundation has a wood-framed first floor attached to a raised concrete perimeter made from reinforced masonry (CMU or cinder blocks.) A pier-and-beam foundation is a system of vertical pillars or piers extended into the ground on footers. The piers support the joist system that holds up your home’s floor.

Retrofitting wood and raised foundations to strengthen their performance in disasters is cost-effective and relatively simple. Retrofitting poured concrete foundations may be more costly as it could require some drywall removal to create access.

Where do I start?

• Consult a contractor or professional engineer whether designing a foundation for your new home or retrofitting an existing home. However, some retrofitting grant programs provide pre-approved plans with prescribed strengthening and anchoring methods.

More Resources:

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: High Wind Wood Frame Construction Edition

FLASH. Resilient Design Guide: Concrete Construction Edition

Why do they matter?

Cripple (or crawl space) walls are relatively short frame walls that extend from the top of your home’s foundation to the bottom of the first floor. These walls typically enclose a crawl space or are part of a stepped foundation when a home is on a slope or uneven ground. During an earthquake, these walls become stressed and can fail, leading to severe building damage.

What do I need to know?

• Cripple walls are the most highly vulnerable of all light-frame walls because they must resist the shaking forces that act on the entire house during an earthquake.
• Older homes with cripple walls constructed without modern seismic building codes have weak connections between the wall and foundation because of the weaker sheathing type and inadequate attachment methods.
• Houses with stepped concrete or masonry foundation walls with unbraced cripple walls often fail in earthquake shaking.
• Decay, rot, and termite damage can also affect the cripple wall strength.
• Cripple walls are highly susceptible to earthquake damage; however, they are also one of the least expensive and easiest parts of your house to retrofit for improved seismic performance.  

Where do I start?

• Before beginning your retrofitting project, inspect the existing cripple walls for rot, decay, or termite damage. Have all damage repaired and replace framing materials in areas where moisture is present or in contact with the foundation. Use pressure-treated lumber and decay-resistant materials.
• Anchor the base of the cripple wall (foundation sill plate) to the foundation, and anchor the top to the first-floor framing above.
• Cover, or sheath, the cripple wall with wood structural panels on the exterior or interior side of the crawl space walls.
• In general, cripple walls should not be higher than four feet in houses with crawl spaces or basements.

FEMA. Brace Cripple Walls.

FEMA DR-4193-RA2. Earthquake Strengthening of Cripple Walls in Wood-Frame Dwellings. 

Why does it matter?

It is essential to strengthen soft and weak-story homes with first-floor open areas or parking underneath, such as garage apartments. This type of condition is especially vulnerable to collapse in earthquakes because the strength of the bottom story is substantially less than the stories above it.

What do I need to know?

• Garages with living space above are among the most common examples of residential soft stories.
• Two-story homes can also exhibit soft-story weakness if the first floor has relatively large window and door openings with fewer supporting interior walls than the floors above.

• Soft story conditions can exist when perimeter cripple walls have no inside face sheathing and under-floor basement areas have few or no interior walls to provide interior support.
• Any story can become a soft story if earthquake loading exceeds the design strength of that story.

Where do I start?

• Consult a licensed engineer to determine the most effective way to upgrade and increase the strength and stiffness of your first story if you have a weak or soft story condition.

Where to explore and more:

FEMA 232, Homebuilders’ Guide to Earthquake-Resistant Design and Construction 

Protect Windows, Doors, and Garage Doors with Plywood Shutters

If your home is not protected by impact-resistant windows and doors, wind- or impact-resistant garage doors, or tested and approved shutters, you can build temporary emergency panels to protect your home in a hurricane.

Assemble Your Tools and Hardware

What you will need for this project:

• Tape measure
• Circular saw
• Drills and drill bits
• Hammer
• Wrench
• Work gloves
• Eye protection
• Bolts
• Wood or masonry anchors
• Nuts and large washers

Note: Different bolts will be needed for wood-frame versus masonry homes. Use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors on wood-frame homes. Use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors on masonry structures.

Plan the Project

1. Count and measure each window and door on your home that has glass.
   • Don’t forget French doors, sliding glass doors, skylights, or older garage doors that are not wind- or impact- resistant.
   • Include roof and gable end vents or any opening large enough to allow wind to enter your home if damaged.
2. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim.
3. Add 8 inches to both the height and width to provide a 4-inch overlap on all sides.
   • When measuring windows with extended sills, measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add 4 inches instead of 8.
4. Calculate how many plywood sheets you will need. They are typically 4 feet by 8 feet. Purchase exterior grade (CDX) plywood that is 5/8-inch or greater.

Board Up

1. Drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2 inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner and at 12-inch intervals around the panel.
2. Hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes.
   • If the windowsill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides.
   • If the windowsill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides.
3. Secure plywood sheets with lag screws or expansion bolts depending on your building materials.
   • Wood-frame house: For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller, use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2½ inches. Lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 ¾ inches.
   • Masonry house: For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller, use 1/4-inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1½ inches. Expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 ½ inches.
4. Join plywood sheets for larger openings.
   • For windows and doors (including garage doors) that are larger than a sheet of plywood, join the panels with 2-inch by 4-inch (2×4) bracing along the entire seam.
   • Attach the 2x4s to the outside of the plywood panel with 10 gauge, 2 inch-long, galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches.
   • Use the widest side of the 2×4 to run the length of the entire seam.

Finish Up

1. Once you board up, number and label each panel with the name of the opening for ease of installation the next time a storm is approaching.
2. Store the panels, washers, and nuts together in a location protected from the weather.
3. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.

Getting Gutters Hurricane Ready

A working gutter system with properly placed downspouts and drains will direct rainfall away from your home’s foundation to prevent flooding, erosion, and water buildup. However, your gutters will only perform if they are well-maintained and free of leaves and debris. An annual gutter inspection to look for holes, rust spots, or broken supports along with routine cleaning will ensure that your gutters are ready when heavy rains come.

Assemble Your Tools and Hardware

What you will need for this project:

• Eye protection
• Waterproof Gloves
• Garden hose
• Specialty hose nozzle
• Rags or paper towels
• Gutter scoop
• Bucket with metal hook
• Ladder

Keep These Important Considerations in Mind

• Safety is the #1 concern when working on your gutters. Do not attempt to clean or repair your gutters from on top of your roof. Only try this DIY project if you live in a one-story house. Do not attempt it at all if you have a two-story home.
• Clean your gutters while standing firmly on a sturdy stepladder. Always use a tall enough ladder that gets you high enough to reach your gutters without having to stand on the top two steps. Work with a partner to hold your ladder.
• Inspect your gutters as you clean. Look for corrosion, holes, leaking joints, or loose, missing, or bent hangers. Mark problem areas with masking tape so you can find those spots quickly.
• Dry, loose leaves and small twigs can be removed with a handheld blower. Some blowers have attachments, especially for that purpose, but removing them manually works too.
• Inspect and clean your gutters twice a year in the spring and fall. If you can only do it annually, plan for after leaves finish dropping in the fall.

Instructions for Cleaning and Repairing Your Gutters

1. Wear eye protection and sturdy, waterproof gloves to protect yourself from debris and scratches. Place a gutter scoop, garden trowel, small hand broom, and rags in a bucket with a metal hook that can attach to your ladder with a wire hook.
2. Start cleaning a stretch of gutter at the downspout area. This is where debris usually collects, blocking the water’s path to the downspout. Work your way along the length of the gutter, putting the collected debris into a bucket.
3. After you are done cleaning, flush your gutters with a garden hose. The water flow will tell you how well the gutters are draining and reveal any areas that are holding water. Standing water in gutters, downspouts, or near drains keep them from draining, so consider placing sand, pebbles, or rocks in compact soil areas that won’t drain. Call a professional for an estimate if you cannot fix the problem.
4. Consider installing protective gutter guards or screens to decrease the amount of debris that collects in your gutters, downspouts, and drains.

Why does it matter?

Those decks and plants that brought so much joy this summer need to be protected during the winter months so they are ready to go once the temperatures begin to rise. Also, winter brings a number of guests to your door, including snow and ice. Keep walkways and driveways clear and safe as guests arrive.

Where do I start?

• If possible, move outdoor furniture, grills, toys, and other items to a covered and protected space. This will help protect these objects and make it much easier to clear snow and ice from a deck after a storm. Once the deck is clear, seal it to protect against snow, ice, rain, and other elements.
• If you have plants outside that cannot take cold weather, consider moving them indoors, bringing a little life and décor to the inside of your home. If this isn’t possible, cover plants and shrubs when temperatures are forecasted to drop below tolerable levels.
• Once all the leaves have fallen, clean your gutters of any debris, and install gutter downspout extensions a minimum of four feet from the house. This will allow melting snow and rain to flow away from your house, preventing floods.
• Turn off and drain all of your outdoor plumbing, including hose connections, pool connections, sprinkler systems, etc. After you’ve turned off the water, leave faucets in the “on” position, and remove any plastic components.
• Drain the gas from your lawnmower, and service your snowblower with a tune-up.
• Trim back tree branches near the home that might snap under accumulating snow and ice.
• Before a winter storm approaches, lay down a layer of deicing sand/salt to minimize ice buildup.
• After a winter storm, lay down layers of deicing sand/salt to melt the snow and ice. Once it begins to melt, you can chip away at the layers with a snow shovel to remove it from steps and walkways.
• Once you have finished clearing your walkways, consider helping others in your community who may need a little help.

Why does it matter?

Your home is at heightened risk for wildfires if your landscape includes combustible vegetation and building materials. Grasses, yard debris, trees, shrubs, vegetation that burn easily, or features like wooden decks create a path for fire to reach your property and ignite your home. However, creating a defensible space through landscaping design can slow down or stop a wildfire by distancing your home from active wildfires’ embers, flames, and radiant heat.

What do I need to know?

The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) Firewise program defines a Home Ignition Zone as an area extending up to 200 feet from a home. The goal for this area is to limit the amount of flammable vegetation and materials surrounding the house and to increase the moisture content of the remaining vegetation.

Where do I start?

Start planning your wildfire-resistant landscape by understanding your Home Ignition Zone and creating a defensible space with up to four subzones. Zone One is closest to your home; Zones Two to Four move further away.

Identify fire-resistant vegetation options with high water content. Some less flammable plants species include dogwood, viburnum, redbud, sycamore, magnolia, beautyberry, oak, red maple, wild azalea, sweetgum, coontie, winged elm, black cherry, persimmon, wild plum, sugarberry, Florida soapberry, fringe tree, ferns, wild olive, blue beech, hophornbeam, and sparkleberry. Consult your local extension service to identify the best wildfire-resistant tree and plan choices for your area.

Zone One – Your Home and the First Five Feet Around It

The latest Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety research suggests you designate Zone One to include your house and the first five feet around it. Follow these steps outlined by the NFPA.

• Clean roofs and gutters of dead leaves, debris, and pine needles that could catch embers.
• Replace or repair any loose or missing shingles or roof tiles to prevent ember penetration.
• Reduce embers that could pass through vents in the eaves by installing 1/8 inch metal mesh screening.
• Clean debris from exterior attic vents and install 1/8 inch metal mesh screening to reduce embers.
• Repair or replace damaged or loose window screens and any broken windows Screen or box-in areas below patios and decks with wire mesh to prevent debris and combustible materials from accumulating.
• Move any flammable material away from wall exteriors – mulch, flammable plants, leaves and needles, firewood piles – anything that can burn. Remove anything stored underneath decks or porches.

Zone Two – Five to 30′ Away from Your Home

Follow these NFPA recommendations to create firebreaks and help interrupt fire movement toward your home.

• Clear vegetation from under large stationary propane tanks.
• Create fuel breaks with driveways, walkways/paths, patios, and decks.
• Keep lawns and native grasses mowed to a height of four inches.
• Remove ladder fuels (vegetation under trees) so a surface fire cannot reach the crowns. Prune trees up to six to ten feet from the ground; for shorter trees, do not exceed 1/3 of the overall tree height.
• Space trees to have a minimum of eighteen feet between crowns, with the distance increasing with the slope percentage.
• Place trees to ensure the mature canopy is no closer than ten feet to the edge of the structure.
• Limit trees and shrubs in this zone to small clusters of a few each to break up the continuity of the vegetation across the landscape.

Zone Three – Thirty to 100 Feet from Your Home, Up to 200 Feet

The following NFPA steps are not intended to eliminate fire but to interrupt the fire path, keep flames smaller, and prevent flames from leaving the ground and climbing so-called ladder fuels to ignite tree crowns.

• Dispose of heavy accumulations of ground litter/debris.
• Remove dead plant and tree material. Contact a professional or your local government extension office to evaluate or remove diseased trees, trees with mushrooms growing from the trunks, or trees with cracked trunks.
• Remove small conifers growing between mature trees.
• Remove vegetation adjacent to storage sheds or other outbuildings within this area.
• Ensure trees 30 to 60 feet from your home have at least 12 feet between canopy tops.
• Ensure trees 60 to 100 feet from your home have at least 6 feet between the canopy tops.

Note that the crown spacing needed to reduce or prevent crown fire potential may be significantly greater due to slope, tree species, or other location-specific conditions. Check with your local forestry professional to determine the right choices for your property.

Landscaping and Maintenance Reminders

• Maintain your irrigation system.
• Move your lawn regularly, and promptly dispose of cuttings and debris per local regulations.
• Keep any firewood at least 50 feet away from your house. 
• Properly store and use flammable liquids away from the house.
• Refuel garden equipment carefully, and maintain equipment regularly.
• Discard smoking materials with care.
• Ensure all water sources (See Water Supply article), such as fire hydrants, ponds, swimming pools, and wells, are accessible to emergency personnel.
• Maintain a garden hose long enough to reach all areas of your house. Leave it connected for firefighters if you have to evacuate.

More Resources

• NFPA. Firewise USA. NFPA – Preparing homes for wildfire.
• FEMA P-737, Home Builders’ Guide to Construction in Wildfire Zones.
• FEMA. How to Prepare for a Wildfire.
•  FEMA. Rebuilding After a Wildfire.

Why does it matter?

Your home is more likely to experience damage during a high-wind event if the area immediately around your home has objects that can be moved by the wind. If you have time, safely secure outdoor items or bring them inside (ex: furniture and other outdoor equipment on your patio or deck). Don’t forget trash cans, grills, toys, and potted plants. Keep them from becoming flying objects. Also remove any debris like fallen tree branches.

What do I need to know?

• Secure outdoor furniture, grills, fire pits, playground equipment, toys, yard decorations, potted plants, or items like trash cans that you cannot move into a storage shed or garage. Attach them to decks or patios with ground anchors with cables or chains. Never bring unsafe items like propane tanks inside.
• In general, if an object can be safely stored indoors, bring it in. If not, it needs to be anchored where it is located outside. Nothing should be left unsecured as even the heaviest of objects can be moved by the high winds of a hurricane or tornado.

Where do I start?

• Walk around your yard and find anything that looks like it can be moved by high wind.
• Start to plan which items will be brought indoors or which items will be secured in place.

More Resources

• Use the outdoor inventory checklist to identify items in your yard that need to be secured.